Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Streetfighter V4 -2021
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am planning to change the belts and check/adjust the valves. I have the workshop manual and have done this job to my other bikes.

Those of you that have done that is there any special tools that you can't make yourself or do without?

If valves need adjusting camshafts need to be removed. There are sealing rings below belt pulleys. Do they need to be replaced as I don't plan to remove the pulley from the shaft? Anything else that I should know?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
I also have similar questions as I will be doing this same maintenance over the winter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
I'm considering doing my 15k. Have to see how it will affect my extended warranty. Decide if I care that the "permanent record" was updated by Ducati.

These are my notes form a generous FB group poster. If you have experiences to add, please do.

Ducati Service Notes

Just did my 30k service myself. I needed:
Oil filter socket.
A digital micrometer for opener shims, already had a digital caliper for the closer shims.
Crank turning tool to rotate the engine.
Thin walled, deep spark plug socket so it will fit.
Torx bits for battery area and valve covers.
Six sided 12mm socket for cam bolts.
EMS 4V 7mm shim kit with closer shim measurement tool.
Cam holder tool for reinstalling belts. (DO NOT buy from anyone but DesmoTimes. Had to Dremel my eBay one for an hour to get it to fit.)
Tapered feeler gauges in addition to the angled set I already had. Need both for valve check.

DesmoTimes book.
Digital service manual off eBay.

> can you elaborate on the EMS 4V thing, and closer shim measurment? I’ve got about everything else already. (Mics and calipers).
So, there are four closer shims and four opener shims per cylinder. You want to adjust one cylinder at a time while it is at TDC.

I had nine shims out of spec across both cylinders. My dealer didn’t carry any shims, you have to order them and they take five to six business days. It was much easier to just buy the kit and have everything I needed all at once.

Also, when I did my checks and took down the existing clearances, I used those clearances for figuring out what shim I needed to replace. When I used the “correct” shim it often didn’t give me the right clearance after the cams were back in, probably because I didn’t get the half rings put back in the same orientation. So, if I had ordered the “correct” shim from the dealer it wouldn’t have worked for me. This would have turned into a weeks long process.

I took my cams in and out probably three times on each cylinder trying to get everything within spec.

Now, if you do your checks and only have one or two clearances out of spec, it might not be worth ordering the kit. I plan on having my bike for at least 3-4 more valve checks so it made sense for me. And you get the $15 closer tool with it.

> thanks for the explanation. So the kit comes with enough shims to cover any needs I take it? Possible to still be missing some if you have a lot out?

I needed one more shim but only because I shot one across my garage and lost it for now. ?

If you have a lot out of spec you can sometimes end up using old shims from other valves on the new valves. You can also sand down shims to get what you need. I had to sand down two or three because the spec fell between two sizes.

Shim kit:
https://emsduc.com/product/later-4v-7mm-shim-kit/

Tool Rental kit:
Tool Kits - Major Service

Belt tension apps:
Alternate for belt tension: gates Bicycle Belt tension meter (phone app)

Also iAnalyzer Lite for a second reading to confirm.
 

·
Registered
Streetfighter V4 -2021
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I found here a lot of useful info.

Here is the same one but with good pictures.

Like this:
"I take my first measurements of shim clearances at TDC (piston at top dead center) with the belts on. I then remove the belts, keeping the piston at TDC. I then do not have to worry about losing the valves into the cylinder, in that at TDC, the valves will sit on top of the piston before they completely fall through. They will drop down, but I can easily grab the tops of them and pull them back up."

And this:
"Another tip when reinstalling belts. It is difficult to hold one of the head cam pulleys on the vertical cylinder where the marks line up. The spring pushing up on the closing rocker wants to make the pulley flip one way or the other. There is a nice tool that nests into two pulleys that hold them in position while you assemble the belt. But I dont have one, so I actually rotate all the pulleys about 4 teeth CCW and then assemble the belt. Then I rotate the engine over to make sure that all the marks line up on all the pulleys (top 2 and the one on the crankshaft)."

It is a good point that if you have to change a shim you might have to do several iterations before you find the correct size. So several different shims somewhere close by would be a good idea. A set would be nice but they also cost money. This is my personal experience on older Monster.

There is a special tool to rotate the engine, but you can put the bike on top gear and turn the wheel.

Edit:
If closer shim needs changing it is better to first change the half rings and measure again. Then decide if also the shim needs to be replaced.
 

·
Registered
Streetfighter V4 -2021
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I found some more tips.

1. If you put a magnet against the top of the valve, it is easier to put back the half rings. The valve gets magnetized so the half rings don't fall off during installation. Other way is to use grease to keep the rings in place (this works just fine).

2. Somebody used small rope. He put the end of a rope through the spark plug hole in to the cylinder. Then bring the piston to top as far as it goes against the rope. The rope keeps the valves in place and they don't fall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
726 Posts
You're doing a DVT motor? How are the cam/pulleys aligned/locked/timed when you remove 'em? Are there marks on the cams/pulleys making this simple? No, I don't own a DVT, but am thinking about getting one & turning my '12 MTS into a project bike. Doing the valves on it are straight forward, but am wondering about the DVT motor.
 

·
Registered
Streetfighter V4 -2021
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
You're doing a DVT motor? How are the cam/pulleys aligned/locked/timed when you remove 'em? Are there marks on the cams/pulleys making this simple?
There are good instructions in the workshop manual. Haven't done it yet but there are no marks. You should put the cylinder in TDC and lock the cams with a tool says the manual. There is also a tool to help to keep the engine in TCD.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top