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What I think you should focus on is the "Check Engine Light"

Something is having an issue electrically ie, ECU or sensor etc.

I've had a malfunctioning PCIII and the bike ran very bad and stalled and wouldnt run above 40 mph and even with all that it did not show a Check Engine Light.

And its common for an electrical component to get worse with heat...Voltage regulators are bad for that...

Cant you pull the codes for the CEL?

Found this on my computer from somewhere:
 

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I'm surprised nobody's noticing your temp.your bikes cooking hot at over 100 c,you should be focusing on riding down side streets instead of sitting at more lights.as the temp increases the check engine light will come on ,basically telling you to get moving or shut it down
 

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The pc111 usb starts a lot earlier than 3 to 4k. It modify's the fueling curves which start at 1500 rpm . I have in an earlier thread showed that they change the fueling from tick over. As the map chart that you get from your power commander shows the changes in numbers from 1500 rpm. Ill see if I can find it to post here.

Here it is.

my own commander maps start at 1500 rpm an go on to 11000 rpm. I was led to believe that the pc111 usb worked from idle and my own maps certainly start there. I cant upload my maps but they start like this. and go on to about 1100.

500 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
750 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
1000 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
1250 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
1500 0 13 3 0 0 0 0 0 0
1750 0 9 4 -7 0 0 0 0 0
2000 0 8 4 -13 -6 -14 -6 -1 0
2250 0 0 0 -21 -16 -23 -22 -14 4
2500 0 0 -1 -12 -18 -14 -14 -19 -18
2750 0 0 -25 -15 -9 -8 -10 -7 -6
3000 0 0 -23 1 -13 -2 4 9 12
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This is interesting.....I had FBF install a PCIII on my 999, custom map and all that other BS in hopes it would stop the stalling. Well it improved the throttle response, picked up 5HP says FBF's dyno sheet, but still stalled. I found later after speaking to a DynoJet tech via land line that the PCIII will not have any affect from idle to 4000 rpm. It really was never completely resolved until I installed the new ECU that came with my Termignoni 54mm exhaust kit. I installed it myself and had FBF zero out the TPS. No more stalling! The only time I had an issue again was fixed by new plugs.
The clutch burp is interesting....if your running a small rear sprocket and the clutch isn't releasing properly it can feel just like a stall. Smart thinking.....
 

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This is interesting.....I had FBF install a PCIII on my 999, custom map and all that other BS in hopes it would stop the stalling. Well it improved the throttle response, picked up 5HP says FBF's dyno sheet, but still stalled. I found later after speaking to a DynoJet tech via land line that the PCIII will not have any affect from idle to 4000 rpm. It really was never completely resolved until I installed the new ECU that came with my Termignoni 54mm exhaust kit. I installed it myself and had FBF zero out the TPS. No more stalling! The only time I had an issue again was fixed by new plugs.
The clutch burp is interesting....if your running a small rear sprocket and the clutch isn't releasing properly it can feel just like a stall. Smart thinking.....
Its very easy to look at or download your own maps . Look at your own and see where the fueling starts . If the numbers start at 1500 , as mine do , then thats where the fueling from the pc111 starts . The earlier none usb pc111 started at 4000 rpm . Now that could be true but the later usb pc111 starts at 1500 rpm.

Plug it into a windows lap top with the pc111 free down loaded software and have a look for your self . Its good to know how to set your own tps anyway which can also be reset . High and low throttle if you want. Theres even a tutorial on the pc web site.
 

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A PC1, 2, 3 or whatever - and similar piggy-back systems- are just that. Hacks. They plug in to the OEM system and try to fool it. And people spend dollars for those, instead of going to the root of the problem and applying the easy fix, which is to modify the OEM system with OEM supplied maps.

Besides, try as you may, a Powercommander will never modify the timing map. A reflash of the OEM ECU with the proper map will.

Any reflash or change of the maps should be followed by not only a reset of the TPS but idle tune (CO level). A number of software can do the TPS reset and idle tuning for free. Provided you only get the right cables and know how to use google a bit.
 

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Its very easy to look at or download your own maps . Look at your own and see where the fueling starts . If the numbers start at 1500 , as mine do , then thats where the fueling from the pc111 starts . The earlier none usb pc111 started at 4000 rpm . Now that could be true but the later usb pc111 starts at 1500 rpm.

Plug it into a windows lap top with the pc111 free down loaded software and have a look for your self . Its good to know how to set your own tps anyway which can also be reset . High and low throttle if you want. Theres even a tutorial on the pc web site.
I'm not saying your wrong, I just found your post and graph interesting as it contradicts what the DJ tech stated.
My 999 has always run very well on PCIII mapping. When I had the bore kit installed I discussed going to a Nemesis ECU with FBF. They said the Nem was a waste of $$$ for street riding. Although a much better product. They did a nice job mapping out my 1038cc kit...pulls hard from idle to rev limiter.
However IMO the DP/Termignoni ECU that came with my 54mm exhaust kit did a better job than the PCIII, fixed the stalling, better throttle response, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Superfly, thanks for the error codes, will check to see which one comes up this morning. I spoke with one of the mechanics at Ducati and was told to make sure the fans both come on when it gets hot which they do. I then disconnected the PCIII and took the bike for a spin, NO ISSUES . When the bike was at hot temperature I plugged back in the power commander and the Check Engine and stalling issue started immediately.

This tells me that its something to do with the PCIII , I called Dynojet and they told me to check the wiring for any kinks as well as all the pins to make sure none were loose , they also mentioned with regards to the wiring to make sure it all has (or as much as physically possible) heat wrap around it .

I will check all this today to see what happens.

Last Sunday I went for a about a 200km highway ride , left at about 8am when it was cool, the bike with the PCIII ran beautifully , the tune and map installed by MAS Dyno (masdynoservices.com) is perfect. On my way back from my ride it was about 1pm and weather was getting quite hot , at one spot on the highway where they are doing construction the traffic came to a standstill and bike started acting up again. Goes to show that when the bike is moving and temp is lower it runs perfect , once it heats up it totally acts up.

Will keep you all posted on what happens, thanks for all your comments !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Problem Solved !

So here it is ....

I find it hard to believe however, the overheating issue was somehow caused by the Power Commander. I unplugged it and tried running the bike without it , no stalling! I then contacted Dynojet , they told me to check the firmware version on my PCIII as it has been on my bike for over 3 years and is very possible that it has never been updated. I did in fact have an old version. I hooked up my lap top , saved first my map . Tried to update the firmware but no luck as the firmware version if I remember correct was 1.0.0.20 and locked it up. I then had to get my hands on Dynojets little programmer module and with that succesfully updated it, reloaded the map and runs like a top! Not only does it run perfect , I also noticed that it seems to run cooler , I had a hell of a time trying to get the bike hot enough like before to test it.

Thanks to everyone for their help and input. I f I can be of any help please do not hesitate to contact me.
 

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interesting solution...glad you solved it on your own.
Great Job!
You mean apart from this bit.

I read that you had recently had a pc111 fitted and a dyno set up. I would try firstly disconnecting it at the air box and then running it without said pc111. Just re connect the original plug and warm it up to see if it does the same. Dont disconnect anything else just that one plug. If its the same then you know that its something else.
 
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