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Discussion Starter #1
I know that there are numerous threads on this issue and I have just spent the last hour and a half reading them , however, my bike seems to be stalling differently from everything that I have read.

I say this as last night I took it for a ride after 4 weeks of not riding it ( was in Italy for 3 weeks and oh by the way got a chance to go to see the MotoGp race in Mugello, very cool!!!, sorry had to throw that in there), the bike was working just fine for 45 minutes until I did about 10 minutes of in town slow riding and the temperature came up to 105 degrees Celsius or 221 degrees fahrenheit , once I came to a stop light the check engine light came on followed by a stall. I restarted the bike and had to rev it higher in order to not stall and to take off. i then came up on to some stop-go traffic where the bike continued to stall on me every time I came to a stop , I also did hear some snap,crackle pops when I was moving. The odd thing is that once I got away from the traffic and started to ride without stops and the temperature dropped to about 77 Celsius / 170 fahrenheit it wouldnt stall.

So when I got back to my house I thought that I would drive around my neighbourhood slowly to see if bringing the temperature back up would cause it to happen again and sure enough it did.

My valves and belts were done last fall and have since put on 3000kms/ 2000 miles on the bike without any issues, I cored my exhaust about 2 months ago and bike was tuned/dynoed with PCIII and have put on about 2000kms/1400 miles problem free since that was done!

The one thing that I did notice last night when I returned home and parked in the garage was the smell of fuel!

Thanks for your help!
 

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Thanks for inviting us to MotoGP Mugello Mr. One Way...:D:D
It just sounds like bad gas, bad combustion....I would siphon out ALL the gas, put some good stuff in it. Then change the plugs.....plugs are optional. But with all the additives in today's gas I understand that it far more common for gas to get stale faster, injectors to get gummy....I'm sure your injectors are fine. Other than that I would check my battery, make sure it's fully charged
...but that's my opine right off....
 

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I had similar problems with mine a few months ago before I had all sorts of work done to it (for other reasons)... Try a NEW battery and also some sea foam additive to clean everything out.

After that I would do plugs & clean the air filters

Then probably look at changing the coolant to either evans coolant which is what I use or just a clean flush and some redline additive

Then if all that fails take it back to the tuner. I had my idle bumped up to where it idles at about 1300 rpm
 

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Maybe a strange question, but did you by accident changed to a bigger rear sprocket? I changed to a bigger one last year (from OEM 36T to 41T) and every time I stopped, my bike stalled and it was no fun to ride it. Now I have a 38T sprocket and the stalling occurs randomly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Guys!!

Dennie, I have changed to a larger rear sprocket, 39 tooth, its been on for a year , no issues. coolant , recently done, battery cant see being the issue as it had tons of juice yesterday to fire up the bike every time it stalled.

I just ran it in my driveway on the track stand and everything was fine till the temperature reached 100 degrees , then it jumped instantly from 100 to 105 and 108 and at the same time the check engine light came on. The other thing that I noticed was that the rpms would fluctuate up and down.
I then revved the piss out of it and tried it another couple of times with the last time coming (check engine)on and only for a split second after I brought it up over 100 degrees the 3rd time.

I have a feeling that I need to check the fuel filter, air filters ( they were clean 3000kms ago) and possibly plugs unless you guys can think of anything else.

Thanks again!
 

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The battery should have nothing to do with the bike running bad or stalling.
It's imperative that the battery be fully charged in the 999..in any Ducati really. It's a good place to start, especially if his 999 has stalling fits and needs to be restarted. A poorly charged battery will quickly give up and can affect ECU signals.
....Fuel-Air-Spark. Unless a mouse took up residence in your air duct..??? You probably just has some condensation in the gas, along with it being a bit stale. Not sure what Canada allows in their fuel.
Just needs new fuel and to be ridden.
I'm not sure why a 41T would cause stalling. I went from a 36T to 38T to 41 then 42T rear and found the 15/42 was the best combination. My chain was barely long enough for the 42T so I had to go back to the 41T. But it definitely removed the jerkiness and made clutching off the start loads easier. Plus the 42T showed a marked improvement in acceleration.
 

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:sleep:

Disagree... But opinions are like a$$holes, everybody's got one.
I always take issue with someone who slams another member who is offering an opinion in good faith.
Disagree fine, but then offer a reply as to why instead of the above..:confused:..
 

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I always take issue with someone who slams another member who is offering an opinion in good faith.
Disagree fine, but then offer a reply as to why instead of the above..:confused:..
You did a great job explaining it. Thanks for taking the time to help the OP
 

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Im not so sure its a battery problem as it runs off the generating side of things once its up and running .
I read that you had recently had a pc111 fitted and a dyno set up. I would try firstly disconnecting it at the air box and then running it without said pc111. Just re connect the original plug and warm it up to see if it does the same. Dont disconnect anything else just that one plug. If its the same then you know that its something else. Next try a TPS reset through your pc111 all you need is a windows based laptop and download the programme from power commander web site. There is even a tutorial on there to show you how. I think this will cure it .
You could also have a plug breaking down that only shows up when it gets hot. That would be my next call.

P.S. nothing to do with your sprockets.
 

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Whilst all the advise on fuel, battery, plugs etc. change are generally good and should be checked first, the earlier 749 and also the 999S all had stalling problems, especially with open exhausts. This can be traced to the ECU IAW59M. This is one of the reasons (there were other issues as well) that later bikes got the IAW5AM instead. It has among other things, different timing maps for the 749 to cure the stalling (and maybe also for the 999, but I can't confirm this). Your bike being 2006 should normally have the IAW5AM, but you can never be sure! Ducati is/was notorious for fitting whatever was on top of the parts-bin...

At any rate having a PCIII will not help the stalling, since that device only kicks in from somewhere between 3-4k rpm and doesn't modify the timing curves at all.

Solution: ditch the PCIII and flash your ECU with the Ducati Performance map from at least 2005 (they issued several flavours of those maps as well). You can find the DP maps for both ECU's. I found that even using the standard 2005 999 map in my 59M ECU on my 999S was giving better low rev running than the OEM 2003 999S map. The 2006 DP map totally changed things and now it runs like a dream! So there is hope, even if you would have the 59M ECU. If you have the 5A you should still flash it with the DP map that is specific to the later ECU. In both cases, you can sell your PCIII!
 

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Your problem (the stalling part) doesn't sound to far off what happens when there is a small amount of air in the clutch line. Doesn't take much to effect the bike and you probably won't notice the issue in the clutch pull feel. Burp the handle bar res (remove the cap, put a 6mm socket on the bolt inside the res, lossen it, pull in the clutch lever and hold it, tighten the bolt....repeat that two or three times. I'd also have your TPS setting checked.
 

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Whilst all the advise on fuel, battery, plugs etc. change are generally good and should be checked first, the earlier 749 and also the 999S all had stalling problems, especially with open exhausts. This can be traced to the ECU IAW59M. This is one of the reasons (there were other issues as well) that later bikes got the IAW5AM instead. It has among other things, different timing maps for the 749 to cure the stalling (and maybe also for the 999, but I can't confirm this). Your bike being 2006 should normally have the IAW5AM, but you can never be sure! Ducati is/was notorious for fitting whatever was on top of the parts-bin...

At any rate having a PCIII will not help the stalling, since that device only kicks in from somewhere between 3-4k rpm and doesn't modify the timing curves at all.

Solution: ditch the PCIII and flash your ECU with the Ducati Performance map from at least 2005 (they issued several flavours of those maps as well). You can find the DP maps for both ECU's. I found that even using the standard 2005 999 map in my 59M ECU on my 999S was giving better low rev running than the OEM 2003 999S map. The 2006 DP map totally changed things and now it runs like a dream! So there is hope, even if you would have the 59M ECU. If you have the 5A you should still flash it with the DP map that is specific to the later ECU. In both cases, you can sell your PCIII!
Would this ECU fix also help a 2004 998 which has a stalling issue?
Hope I'm not hijacking the original thread.
 

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At any rate having a PCIII will not help the stalling, since that device only kicks in from somewhere between 3-4k rpm and doesn't modify the timing curves at all.!
The pc111 usb starts a lot earlier than 3 to 4k. It modify's the fueling curves which start at 1500 rpm . I have in an earlier thread showed that they change the fueling from tick over. As the map chart that you get from your power commander shows the changes in numbers from 1500 rpm. Ill see if I can find it to post here.

Here it is.

my own commander maps start at 1500 rpm an go on to 11000 rpm. I was led to believe that the pc111 usb worked from idle and my own maps certainly start there. I cant upload my maps but they start like this. and go on to about 1100.

500 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
750 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
1000 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
1250 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
1500 0 13 3 0 0 0 0 0 0
1750 0 9 4 -7 0 0 0 0 0
2000 0 8 4 -13 -6 -14 -6 -1 0
2250 0 0 0 -21 -16 -23 -22 -14 4
2500 0 0 -1 -12 -18 -14 -14 -19 -18
2750 0 0 -25 -15 -9 -8 -10 -7 -6
3000 0 0 -23 1 -13 -2 4 9 12
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Regarding the 998: Yes most likely, the 998 uses the 59M ECU. Playing with my 999 and the same ECU, I found that some maps would have no idle and totally stall, whereas the DP map is very sweet and fixes the problem (I have a full 57mm race system). They never used anything else on the 998 (AFIK). Hypothetical question: Would you be able to retrofit a 5A? Maybe...the 999 engine is very similar to the 998, but it would run using a 999 map, since there are no 998 maps for the 5A and you can't load a 59M map in the later hardware (big no-no, as you will brick your ECU). It would be an interesting test. And also, the 998 59M is worth more 2nd hand than the 999, because they are all "virgin" = immo function not active...can be plugged in straight in a 999, reflashed with a 999 map, and you have a "new" ECU, sans the immo problems. You can even enable the immo function using the red key and procedure...
 

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Thanks for the info on the 998 ECU. I'll try a few other things first like syncroing throttle bodies and setting the TPS before messing with the ECU. But it's good to know. What did you mean by bricking the ECU? Render it useless?
 

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Whilst all the advise on fuel, battery, plugs etc. change are generally good and should be checked first, the earlier 749 and also the 999S all had stalling problems, especially with open exhausts. This can be traced to the ECU IAW59M. This is one of the reasons (there were other issues as well) that later bikes got the IAW5AM instead. It has among other things, different timing maps for the 749 to cure the stalling (and maybe also for the 999, but I can't confirm this). Your bike being 2006 should normally have the IAW5AM, but you can never be sure! Ducati is/was notorious for fitting whatever was on top of the parts-bin...

At any rate having a PCIII will not help the stalling, since that device only kicks in from somewhere between 3-4k rpm and doesn't modify the timing curves at all.

Solution: ditch the PCIII and flash your ECU with the Ducati Performance map from at least 2005 (they issued several flavours of those maps as well). You can find the DP maps for both ECU's. I found that even using the standard 2005 999 map in my 59M ECU on my 999S was giving better low rev running than the OEM 2003 999S map. The 2006 DP map totally changed things and now it runs like a dream! So there is hope, even if you would have the 59M ECU. If you have the 5A you should still flash it with the DP map that is specific to the later ECU. In both cases, you can sell your PCIII!
you are spot on about the fuel/timing map.
 

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I would like to hear what you did to resolve the issue. I had a problem this weekend on a ride where the bike was warmed up, came to a stop sign and it kept stalling out on me. This happened four times at the stop. Once it got going again no issues. I have a "normal" issue when the bike is cold it will stall occasionally when coming to a stop. However it has never happened when it was warm.

Mine is an 2006 749 with the PCIII, would adjusting the low end fuel (around 1000 Rpm) help the cold start issue? I haven't checked plugs, battery is always on a tender and showed 13.8v while on the ride.


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 

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I would like to hear what you did to resolve the issue. I had a problem this weekend on a ride where the bike was warmed up, came to a stop sign and it kept stalling out on me. This happened four times at the stop. Once it got going again no issues. I have a "normal" issue when the bike is cold it will stall occasionally when coming to a stop. However it has never happened when it was warm.

Mine is an 2006 749 with the PCIII, would adjusting the low end fuel (around 1000 Rpm) help the cold start issue? I haven't checked plugs, battery is always on a tender and showed 13.8v while on the ride.


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
You need to be able to get at the ignition map, to advance the timing a bit at idle rpm. You can't do that with a stock ECU. I'm able to get to it with a Microtec ecu.
 
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