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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking at about $270. for a complete kit to degree the cams (timing) plus a substantial amount of labor to do so. Without knowing where my particular bike is timed it's difficult to know what gains can be made of course, but, those of you who have done this using Brad the Bike Boy's numbers for instance, do you feel it was worth the effort?

Sometimes it's best to quit tinkering and just ride!
 

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You'll definitely have a different power band once your done. I went with the factory spec when I did my 749R's timing and it was a noticeable difference considering the timing was roughly 6 degree's out of whack from the factory.

Brad and Tom (from the forums) have great numbers to work with. I highly suggesting taking their input and having it done. Timing your bike (cam timing and degreeing) does take a great deal of effort, its not that simple. The valve covers have to come off and tools are put onto the valves to measure the location of the lobes and then the cam pulley's are adjusted. It takes roughly 2 hrs to do it properly, so $270 bux makes sense. If your dealer doesn't have the hardware to time the bike, go somewhere else...

One tip: Whilst your in their, you might as well have them do a valve clearance check as well. ;)



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I had the cams degreed to factory spec and it made a noticeable difference. 2 of the cams were off by 4 degrees. I paid about 500 to have the valves adjusted and the cams degreed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
WebCam makes a complete kit to do the timing yourself for $270, a great price as my local charges 6 hours (!) to do this. The only prob. is you might do it once or twice and then the only time you'll use it is when your Duc buddies start to hang around your shop more than usual and begging for you to do theirs!
 

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so i got my 06 999 base model apart to check the valves and i noticed the cam pulleys are not adjustable.

do i have to buy adjustable pulleys or does someone make offfset keys?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Granted, the cams are different but I would have thought the cam pulleys would have been the same on both the R and base/S. No slotting where the 3 allen bolts hold the pulley on? If not, it's a fairly simple matter to remove them and have a machine shop slot them, use the dimensions from an R bike, of course. You may find it's prob. better to just ride the bike as this is a very involved mod.
I'll bet the engine assembler at the factory just puts the pulley in the middle of the slot and figures it won't be a problem as this is obviously an interference motor and degreeing each cam would add alot of assembly line time.

I'm getting the feeling that my local shop is telling me that they don't want my business judging by the time/rates they use, so I just do this stuff in my garage and get the warm fuzzies that come with a job done right. Besides, with the right tools, this is fun stuff.
 
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