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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 ST3 and I also just bought a 2006 ST3S ABS. I thought I could upgrade without spending a ton of time and money. When I got the S model out on the road I discovered that it had the $%&@ing brake judder and it is driving me nuts. So far I have cleaned the buttons, cleaned the rotors and replaced the brake pads. It is better but still way beyond acceptable Please tell me what you think should be my next course of action.
A) Bend back the back of the buttons to give the rotors a little more room to float.
B) Replace the buttons with new floating buttons.
C) Replace the rotors with new floating rotors.
D) Swap rotors with my other ST3. (I will sell the standard model ASAP)
 

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Mr Leakered
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Worn fork internals and bad/loose head bearings can cause this, esp if it comes back after cleaning.

Losing the spring plates on the calipers helped me at one time also.

Have a good one.
 

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I have a 2006 ST3 and I also just bought a 2006 ST3S ABS. I thought I could upgrade without spending a ton of time and money. When I got the S model out on the road I discovered that it had the $%&@ing brake judder and it is driving me nuts. So far I have cleaned the buttons, cleaned the rotors and replaced the brake pads. It is better but still way beyond acceptable Please tell me what you think should be my next course of action.
A) Bend back the back of the buttons to give the rotors a little more room to float.
B) Replace the buttons with new floating buttons.
C) Replace the rotors with new floating rotors.
D) Swap rotors with my other ST3. (I will sell the standard model ASAP)
Bending back the buttons does help but if it is a warped rotor then it will still be there to a degree.
Floating buttons will quickly wear out your carrier as the aluminium is not rated for floating buttons.
I replaced mine with EBC rotors, not full floating and they are great. You do not need full floating rotors.
Swapping with the other bike, well I wouldn't unless I was that cash strapped that it was the only alternative.

The first three points I have been through and I should have just gone straight to point "C" Of course my problem stemmed from an actual warped rotor. The floating buttons only lasted 8000kms before the slop became too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I replaced mine with EBC rotors, not full floating and they are great. You do not need full floating rotors.
Did you have any issues finding rotors that were compatitable with the ABS sensor ring?
 

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So far I have cleaned the buttons, cleaned the rotors and replaced the brake pads.  Please tell me what you think should be my next course of action.
What pads did you replace with? I found my ST2 to be perfect regarding brakes for over 53,000 miles of riding. ST4s had shudder. The pads were different. IIRC, the ST4s comes with "Toshiba/Brembo" pads. The ST2 was just Brembo branded.

I went with a softer kevlar pad on the ST4s, and then bedded the pads in fully. Huge difference. The best result was with the new pads and a very spirited 2500 mile ride with my spirited buddies. Mucho use of brakes at high speeds, and no stopping. No stopping is the key, If/when you bed in new pads, you tend to super-heat the hardware, but you keep moving to allow UNIFORM cool down. If you stop, there's about a 99.9% chance that the hot pads will make deposits on your rotors in one spot, and then the problem starts manifest.
 
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I'm all ears on how you did this, Stick! ;)

Ron
Shoot, I'm starting to sound like D Trump! "I should have said": Long round trip to the dragon, on great, zesty roads thru WV and NC, with very few stops. Have radar detector, will travel fast!
 

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PO put on Brake Tech rotors.No shudder.
 
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