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Sorry guys but anecdotal information on torque settings isn't going to fly for me. If someone has some technical info as why they should not use factory torques that's different and I'd certainly read it but not to be offensive just because people have been torquing the nut less than spec "for years" is not concrete enough for me. Sorry.

mmoore- I'm lucky enough to have a lift with a front chock but before I had that I'd loosen the rear nut on my brutale while on the ground on sidestand(I always did it alone but better with help. Then up on the rear stand put the wheel on snug it up, back down on the side stand and torque to spec, I'd put one foot on the rear brake with bike in gear, not too hard that way.

Chris

I agree 100 %

Buell (gasp!) has a torque reccomendation fo the drain plug on the XB line - it is in the manual- etc.

EVERY person that torques to that limit strips the thread (in the swing arm)

Use common sense here as every where

"The factory knows best" is not always a sustainable/ always never to be questioned reasonable guide.

My .02 worth

Steve
 

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Sorry guys but anecdotal information on torque settings isn't going to fly for me. If someone has some technical info as why they should not use factory torques that's different and I'd certainly read it but not to be offensive just because people have been torquing the nut less than spec "for years" is not concrete enough for me. Sorry.



Chris
No Problem- to each his own.
Ride on-
 
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I fully understand torque setting, and use most of them all the time, BUT , the main reason for outrageous settings for wheel nuts ,is because some fool is bound to forget the lock ring,or figure it's not needed, and thats where the problem begins.

However,if your a compitent wrench, and know the mechenics of things (wheel nut torque settings) and put the lock ring back on, and even go as far as safety wire the lock ring, one can get away with not using 300 lbs torque for something that only needs 100 lbs torque.

EG: if you torque the nut on @ 100 lbs torque ,and put the safety ring on, AND safety wire the ring on, you will still have 100 lbs torque when you remove the nut.
 

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Dunno,
I figure the engineers have a reason for it, the brutale is torqued at 240. I don't think it's necessarily to keep the nut from coming off but it may be required for the bearings and other components to align or seat correctly. I'll stick with what the manual says.

Certainly right, the 996 I had was the 170 NM or so, but the nut was significantly smaller as well.

Chris
Don't have a SF yet, but do have a Hyper. But what bearings and other components are you trying to align or seat? Aren't those components already torqued or preloaded before the wheel is installed? Torquing the wheel nut is to keep the wheel on the axle, or I'm I missing something? :confused:
 

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Knobs

This is how you get an accident.

A thread on an oil pan, and the recommended torque for a wheel axle are two totally different things.

Bearings preload, vibrations, heat, so many things your DIY mate wont tell you, you have to be a know to think that the torque is just there to hold the nut...

Just follow the manual.
 
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