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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought the special tool (Speedymoto) figuring I'd need to change my tires eventually. But eventually came sooner than I expected when I picked up a nail in my rear tire.

So I get out my 18" breaker bar and the 'socket' and remove the exhaust, the clip, etc. and try to budge that damned nut. Nothing. Nada. So I put it all back together, pop in a 'Stop 'n Go' plug and limp it into the shop, feeling totally defeated. It turns out that the torque spec on that thing is 230nm! and my 1/2" drive torque wrench only goes up to 200. Plus I swear they must've put red loctite on or something.

Anyway, my question is this. For all you 1098 folks, are you able to find a breaker bar and torque wrench big enough to DIY, or does this call for pneumatic tools? Or do I just say the hell with it and bring it in whenever I need new tires? I've heard the advice to slip a section of galvanized pipe over the breaker bar, but then there's the problem of keeping the bike stable. Sheesh.
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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goto your friendly neighborhood tractor supply store (or something similar) and purchase the cheap electric impact wrench. It should get the nut off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
goto your friendly neighborhood tractor supply store (or something similar) and purchase the cheap electric impact wrench. It should get the nut off.
Hmmm. I hadn't thought of that. I have one of those 18V Makita ones, but there's no way it could get that beast of a nut off.
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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Just check the spec on the gun. The impact wrench is very effective at getting high torque nuts off. I haven't used it on my F1098, but it did wonders on my monster.

The Kawasaki 1/2 in. 7 A Impact Wrench Kit includes four 1/2 in. drive sockets for a variety of jobs.

* 120 V, 7.0 A motor
* 2100 RPM, 220 ft./lbs. max torque
* Metal gear box for durability
* Isolated forward/reverse switch
* Includes 4-piece 1/2 in. drive impact sockets
* Three year warranty

$70

FYI 220nm is about 162ft pds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just check the spec on the gun. The impact wrench is very effective at getting high torque nuts off. I haven't used it on my F1098, but it did wonders on my monster.

The Kawasaki 1/2 in. 7 A Impact Wrench Kit includes four 1/2 in. drive sockets for a variety of jobs.

* 120 V, 7.0 A motor
* 2100 RPM, 220 ft./lbs. max torque
* Metal gear box for durability
* Isolated forward/reverse switch
* Includes 4-piece 1/2 in. drive impact sockets
* Three year warranty

$70

FYI 220nm is about 162ft pds.
Thanks. I found it on Amazon. Only downside is that disgusting green.

I might have to paint it red. :D
 

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My brutale is 240 nm and a bear to get off, I used the speedymoto tool and a 1/2drive breaker bar. It's tough but not so bad. And just in case, it's better to loosen with the rear on the ground as a single sided stand you might have probs with bike falling over.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My brutale is 240 nm and a bear to get off, I used the speedymoto tool and a 1/2drive breaker bar. It's tough but not so bad. And just in case, it's better to loosen with the rear on the ground as a single sided stand you might have probs with bike falling over.

Chris
Ya, I had it up on the stand as the rear tire was flat as a pancake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Yes & just to be fuckin awkward , The one i paid stupid money for that fits my MV Brutale is about 1mm too small.
Why cant they use the same bloody stuff :mad:
 

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I hate that you told me that. My speedymoto socket for my brutale (just sold it) sits in my tool chest now with no use. I'll order the duc one, speedymoto is first rate.

Trust me guys, the speedymoto type with large machined face is much safer to use than a standard socket because typically a standard socket has beveling making less contact for the surface of the nut, and when torqueing to 230-240nm, slipping is not good!

Chris

Yes & just to be fuckin awkward , The one i paid stupid money for that fits my MV Brutale is about 1mm too small.
Why cant they use the same bloody stuff :mad:
 

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I hate that you told me that. My speedymoto socket for my brutale (just sold it) sits in my tool chest now with no use. I'll order the duc one, speedymoto is first rate.

Trust me guys, the speedymoto type with large machined face is much safer to use than a standard socket because typically a standard socket has beveling making less contact for the surface of the nut, and when torqueing to 230-240nm, slipping is not good!

Chris
YES I knew you would be pleased Zvez..:D
 

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I bought the cheap 3/4" set from Harbor freight. it did the job, just barely. as mentioned, slipping is a constant problem. bought the speedymoto socket from Motowheels and it is totally worth it. it really fits and reduces the chance of damaging rims and body to the you have to try to mess up level. I carried it along on a recent long distance trip just in case I needed a tire repair at a place that didn't usually have ducati's. of course then, I never needed it.
 

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FYI, I would NOT try to torque full spec with the bike on the rear stand, you're asking for trouble if you do, and might end up with 400 pounds of bike in your lap. And buy a decent rear stand like pit bull.

Chris

I bought the cheap 3/4" set from Harbor freight. it did the job, just barely. as mentioned, slipping is a constant problem. bought the speedymoto socket from Motowheels and it is totally worth it. it really fits and reduces the chance of damaging rims and body to the you have to try to mess up level. I carried it along on a recent long distance trip just in case I needed a tire repair at a place that didn't usually have ducati's. of course then, I never needed it.
 
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I have a hard time with some of the specs that they use for the rear axle nut ? I can see torquing it up to the factory spec IF it didn't have a safety lock ring to stop it from backing out, BUT it does and in my mind it's just to damn much torque for somethig with said safety retainer ring that should never back out ESPECIALLY if it safety wired as well (the retainer ring that is)

I've been rididng/racing with these on the 916 right up to the 1198 and will never tourque it past 85ft lbs when using safety wire or a zip tie to ensure that the safety ring dosen't come off, and never have I had a problem with it. Just my 2 cents .
 

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Dunno,
I figure the engineers have a reason for it, the brutale is torqued at 240. I don't think it's necessarily to keep the nut from coming off but it may be required for the bearings and other components to align or seat correctly. I'll stick with what the manual says.

Certainly right, the 996 I had was the 170 NM or so, but the nut was significantly smaller as well.

Chris

I have a hard time with some of the specs that they use for the rear axle nut ? I can see torquing it up to the factory spec IF it didn't have a safety lock ring to stop it from backing out, BUT it does and in my mind it's just to damn much torque for somethig with said safety retainer ring that should never back out ESPECIALLY if it safety wired as well (the retainer ring that is)

I've been rididng/racing with these on the 916 right up to the 1198 and will never tourque it past 85ft lbs when using safety wire or a zip tie to ensure that the safety ring dosen't come off, and never have I had a problem with it. Just my 2 cents .
 

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I have a hard time with some of the specs that they use for the rear axle nut ? I can see torquing it up to the factory spec IF it didn't have a safety lock ring to stop it from backing out, BUT it does and in my mind it's just to damn much torque for somethig with said safety retainer ring that should never back out ESPECIALLY if it safety wired as well (the retainer ring that is)

I've been rididng/racing with these on the 916 right up to the 1198 and will never tourque it past 85ft lbs when using safety wire or a zip tie to ensure that the safety ring dosen't come off, and never have I had a problem with it. Just my 2 cents .
I agree 100 %

Buell (gasp!) has a torque reccomendation fo the drain plug on the XB line - it is in the manual- etc.

EVERY person that torques to that limit strips the thread (in the swing arm)

Use common sense here as every where

"The factory knows best" is not always a sustainable/ always never to be questioned reasonable guide.

My .02 worth

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
FYI, I would NOT try to torque full spec with the bike on the rear stand, you're asking for trouble if you do, and might end up with 400 pounds of bike in your lap. And buy a decent rear stand like pit bull.

Chris
So do you just leave it in a sportchock or something like that then?
 

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I got my mate to sit on it (or a member of the family) & pushed it up to the brickwork on the garage so no more rolling....Same for undoing but swing the bike around
 
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