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I tried the battery from my other bike and eveything worked fine, it started 1st jab of the button, so new battery it is. I don't understand though why it suddenly packed in and why it is showing 12.8 volts.
Rex Coil 7, thanks for the advice but I have already updated the electrics including heavy duty starter cable & battery to solenoid cable etc. I also fitted a reg/rec off of an R1 and used an Eastern Beaver fitting kit. https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html
Thanks to everybody for their help.
When I saw your post saying the battery voltage was 12.8, I was about to post and say it was stuffed, but Rex beat me to it. A fully charged 12 volt battery should read 13.2 volts - each cell produces 2.2 volts at full charge. That's why it needs 14.4 volts to charge - you need a bit more voltage than the actual battery voltage, so you can 'push' charge in.

Batteries die - often age related (they're usually not good for much more than 5 years), and possibly even more often when they're left to discharge completely. The over discharge causes a buildup of lead sulphate (a by-product of the lead acid battery), which can short out some of the plates in the cell, causing the voltage to drop, and the battery to lose it's ability to hold a decent charge. Once it's done that - it's toast.

If you have an alarm system, or something that has a parasitic draw on the battery, it might be a good idea to get a battery tender, to keep the battery trickle charged and topped up. Mine save me a few new batteries when I had an alarm.
 

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I tried the battery from my other bike and eveything worked fine, it started 1st jab of the button, so new battery it is. I don't understand though why it suddenly packed in and why it is showing 12.8 volts.
It goes back to that thing about ~current vs voltage~. When you place a test meter (like a "VOM" or digital volt meter) on the posts to check the voltage, the meter puts no load on the battery. Well, to be precise, it puts a very (very!) light load on the battery. When you're asking the battery to really do a lot of work (ie; start the bike) there is not enough total current to do it. If you were to read the battery's voltage with that same test meter while you're attempting to turn over the motorcycle's engine, you'd see that voltage drop like a combat boot as soon as you hit the start button. This is what happens when a lead acid battery has an internal short to ground .... or .... when there is that white crusty crap built up between a battery cable and the battery's terminal(s), as well as several other conditions involving the cables.

That is why spending $20 bucks on a load tester is an excellent investment. The load tester is a miniature load bank, it allows you to test the voltage AND the "under load current". Also, depending on where you place (aka "connect") that tester it may be used to test not just the battery, but also the solenoid, cables, and connections.

Rex Coil 7, thanks for the advice but I have already updated the electrics including heavy duty starter cable & battery to solenoid cable etc. I also fitted a reg/rec off of an R1 and used an Eastern Beaver fitting kit. https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html
Thanks to everybody for their help.
That's great!

I try to be mindful of the fact that thousands of people all over the world may end up reading posts in a forum like this when searching the web for information. So while you are already ahead of the situation, there's a solid chance someone that isn't even a member here may discover what we write and find it all very useful. Especially information that addresses very common issues such as motorcycle and/or other vehicle starting problems as well as general charging and battery failure issues.

I'm really glad you've discovered the problem, and hopefully everything folks have offered here in the way of suggestions has helped you to learn more about your precious and beloved motorcycle.

Good morning! :smile2:

Rex.
 
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