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Discussion Starter #1
92 900SS. The neutral light is intermittent, I went to start the bike when the bike was on the sidestand and I thought was in neutral, it was in gear the bike jolted forward and then stalled, since then I have no ignition lights or any electrics. The battery and all fuses are OK, the side stand switch has been bypassed. Any ideas? ignition switch, kill switch?
Thanks
 

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No idiot lights at all on the dash could be the "strip" fuse has blown, its located inside the right side front fairing cowl along the frame. It is a main fuse for all the power on the bike.

Does the starter solenoid click when you hit the starter button?
Does the starter make any noise at all?
Might try direct power to first the starter solenoid and then to the starter depending on the outcomes above.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi
Checked the strip fuse and its ok, there are no idiot lights at all. Ignition light not on, nothing when I hit the start button, no clicks or anything, the solenoid is nearly new. I tried switching the kill button a few times from on to off and once the ignition light came on with it switched to off, I hit the starter button and the light went off!.
 

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OK I know this may be a stupid question, but how old is the battery? I have seen them go almost instantly. could be a dirty ground or even a loose term. on the battery. its worth a look if for nothing then to rule it out.
 

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If you can get the rear wheel up on a stand, can you turn the rear wheel? Verify neutral.


The are two relays tucked in by the right side of the dash in tight to the headlight. One is the flasher relay, the other is something important because my bike has these symptoms if it is loose in its socket.

Also, follow the wires from the starter button down to the harness - is that loose?

At the solenoid there is a thin two post white plastic connector coming in from the back near the top (that is where the wires from the starter button end up eventually) - make sure that is tight and it only goes in one way.

Can you figure out a way to go direct to power on the starter? Know which post is which? Will the starter turn?
 

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loose or corroded chassis ground?
Going by the description of how everything was lit/ready to go .. and then ~nothing~ ... what you've said here is exactly what I think as well.

I've had that exact same thing happen to my own vehicles, as well as customer's of mine. You take the ground connection (or even the positive) and wiggle it and turn it a bit, suddenly everything works. Usually this is because the connection (either ground or positive) has corrosion or other gook between the cable terminal and whatever it is supposed to be connected to.

I've had this happen A LOT on vehicles with lead/acid batteries, especially when the humid weather kicks in around here (that white corrosion gunk "grows" under those conditions). Hood up, me watching the battery, my wife will turn the key to ~start~ and a bit of a "pop" can be heard and maybe even a small spark can be seen where one of the cables attaches to the battery terminals, but then everything goes dead. Wrenching the cable terminals around by hand a little (improving the connection in the process) and suddenly it will start when she turns the key.

So, I'm with you Member *bigbadbass2 ... this really sounds like main cable terminal issues of one sort or another. It could be at the battery itself, or it could be where the ground cable attaches to the engine end of the cable.


.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all of the replies. I am 8 hours ahead of you so sorry for not responding sooner.
I upgraded a lot of the electrics a couple of years ago, including new stronger leads to the starter and earth leads + an additional earth, so I am sure that all of those are OK. The battery is in good condition & not very old. The starter solenoid was also replaced and it and the connections are good.
The rear wheel turns OK on the paddock stand.
What is the additional relay, can it be tested?
 

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Swap the two relays, I believe they’re the same ? Look at the number and diagram on them. I just had a bad battery that checked between 12.68 and 13.1 volts so do a load check to be certain.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Swap the two relays, I believe they’re the same ? Look at the number and diagram on them. I just had a bad battery that checked between 12.68 and 13.1 volts so do a load check to be certain.
Thanks, I am pretty certain that the battery is ok but will check it, if it is the relay are replacements available?:smile2:
 

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If you have lost ALL power it is a smaller area to look at . Check any 30 amp fuse you have in the fuse panel and swap it not just look. Use a meter to see where the power is lost.

battery test.
Ground wires.
power to 30amp fuse in fuse box (test both sides)
power to ignition switch
power out of ignition switch
power back to fuse panel (all other fuses)

know that new parts fail every day so the fact you installed new wires means nothing, measure and test everything.
The bike is old school the neutral light and side stand switch have nothing to do with powering/starting the bike unless they are blowing the main 30 amp fuse in the fuse box.
 

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Re; checking fuses. Never take it for granted that because a fuse ~looks ok~ that it is ok.

The filament in a clear fuse can break behind the metal portion from vibration or an impact, where it cannot be visually verified. So always pull the fuse (at least one side of it) and test it with a continuity meter or ohm meter.

Pro tip; use what are known as "ceramic fuses" rather than the clear glass ones. The clear ones have nothing to support the filament which leaves it vulnerable to vibration and impacts. Ceramic fuses use a white-ish ceramic material which supports the fuse element and protects the element from vibration and impacts. Ceramic fuses are less convenient to some people that rely on a visual confirmation that a glass fuse is "ok" ... which is poor workmanship on it's best day.

This applies to round fuses, just to be ... uh ... ~clear~. :rolleyes: ;)

Also, the voltage rating on a fuse is nothing to concern yourself with, as long as the voltage rating is equal to or higher than the voltage of the circuit being protected. For instance, a 250 volt fuse can be used in a 14 volt system without any concern. The voltage rating only speaks to how much of an air gap the filament will produce when it burns open. So a fuse rated at 250 volts will burn open with a wider air gap than a 14 volt fuse. This is because higher voltages can jump across a wider air gap than lower voltages. So to be certain the fuse element burns open wide enough to actually open the circuit and stop the flow of electricity it must be designed to burn open wide enough to create a wide enough air gap to prevent electricity from continuing to flow.

That said, if all you can locate are 250 volt (or 125 volt, or 32 volt, and so on) fuses there is nothing to worry about when using them in your motorcycle.

The only spec that must be adhered to is the current rating (aka "amperage rating").

I stock/use 250 volt ceramic fuses. Being rated at 250 volt I'm certain the filament will burn open with a sufficiently wide air gap, and being ceramic I sleep easy knowing the filament has a far less chance of ~breaking~ and creating an open circuit.

:wink2:

.
 

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battery test.
Ground wires.
That's what my bet is on. Battery load test, Ground wires load test .... to clarify.

As I've said previously in other posts .... this gadget pictured below is the best $20 bucks you'll ever spend when it comes to troubleshooting these types of problems ....
 

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I see many a battery that with a volt meter shows 13.+ volts, but use your load tester then No Joy--age means nothing---Remember If Man Made It,-Man Can Screw It Up. Fuses also I never rely on a visual or even a continuity test--I have see many of those as well that a continuity test shows good but it has a tiny break over to one side where the continuity test will show good but when you put a load on it --it fails. Fuses are cheep just replace them if for nothing but peace of mind
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK I checked all of the connections & leads etc, 1 earth was a bit loose but I had put in an additional earth which was tight.
I put the battery on charge & it came up fully charged in a few minutes, tried to start in and still nothing, no lights etc. Checked the battery with a muti meter and it read 12.8V Attached the charger to the battery and the ignition light came on, but weak, tried to start it and it just clicked from the solenoid like it was a flat battery.
I then attached jump leads from another running bike and it started up straight away, and all the lights etc worked, removed the leads and it kept running ok, the battery/chargeing light went out as per normal.
When the bike was running the battery was showing 14.4V.
Turned it off, tried to start it without the jump leads and nothing again.
I dont have a battery load test meter but I reckon that the battery must be fubared.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
 

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That's what my bet is on. Battery load test, Ground wires load test .... to clarify.

As I've said previously in other posts .... this gadget pictured below is the best $20 bucks you'll ever spend when it comes to troubleshooting these types of problems ....
HF coupon brought mine down to around $15
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah I thought I would do that, just ran out of time today.
 

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When the bike was running the battery was showing 14.4V.
No, the battery was not showing 14.4 volts ... your charging system was showing 14.4 vdc. The alternator was doing it's job and providing 14.4 volts, which was what you were reading. My money is still on a shorted battery. Lead/acid batteries have vertical standing lead plates in them. Often times what happens is one or more of the lead plates breaks loose from the mounts that suspend the lead plate in acid, but also keep the lead plates from touching the bottom of the battery or touching other lead plates. Those mounts often fail (don't try to figure out why ... it's just a fact of life). When they fail, one or more of the lead plates shorts out to ground ("negative"). When that happens, virtually all of the current needed to turn the motorcycle engine over is sent directly to ground instead of being used to power the starter motor.

So from everything you've provided in the way of information, I'm going with shorted battery.

Fix? Buy a new one.

I'd suggest replacing the heavy battery cables with heavier gauge cable while you're at it. Motowheels (and others) sells a nice little precut/pre-terminated cable kit that connects right up no fuss/no muss ... just plug in your make/model/year in the website and the correct kit will be shown.

In the image I've attached the Motowheels cable kit for my 1996 900CR can be seen on the right. That's some stuff I bought from them in that picture, I took it for the project thread I'm running for my motorcycle (left to right ... case saver, Exact Fit belts, and the Motowheels heavy gauge cable kit).

:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I tried the battery from my other bike and eveything worked fine, it started 1st jab of the button, so new battery it is. I don't understand though why it suddenly packed in and why it is showing 12.8 volts.
Rex Coil 7, thanks for the advice but I have already updated the electrics including heavy duty starter cable & battery to solenoid cable etc. I also fitted a reg/rec off of an R1 and used an Eastern Beaver fitting kit. https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html
Thanks to everybody for their help.
 
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