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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, my CycleCats just arrived. I decided on the infinite adjust-ability. We'll see.

I would have purchased a less expensive set of clip ons if they all would have provided more information (angle of bar, etc.) on their products. Most places would just provide pictures and a one or two line sentence.

Some of the more popular non adjusting clip ons were approaching 250 or more, so a little extra more $$ and it was a no brainer with the CycleCats.

Thanks to motowheels for the discount!

Okay, first off, I'm disappointed that the CycleCats weren't of the hinged design. It just compounded the install because now i have to remove the top yoke. I now have to make that stupid tool to remove that large weird screw in the middle. If the OEM clip ons can come this way, I would have thought that CycleCat could of as well. Maybe they have a reason that it isn't hinged.

No instructions on removing the top yoke. This product is specific to the Ducati 916 series bike so you would think they would have complete instructions covering this aspect as well. Also, relocating the reservoirs, big question mark for me as to how I empty it, swap the hoses so I don't get brake fluid everywhere and don't get bubbles in the lines. Never done it before so a little hint would have been nice.

Other then that...the adjustment is pretty clever, you can really dial in your preferences up to the point you hit the fairing.

Each piece was very nicely machined. Fit and finish are excellent. I trial fitted some pieces off the bike and tolerances are right on.

All pieces were packed very well and organized, everything was bubble taped. A check list was also included of the person who put the "kit" together at the factory. Kudos to the person who put their QC process in place.

Now the reason for my post...

What is the best way to swap the OEM hoses for the CycleCat ones without getting brake fluid everywhere and air in the lines?

Anyone have any pics of their installed bars to give me a head start and to cut down on trail and error.

Is there anything I should know about when putting the top yoke back on, any pitfalls?

Thanks!
 

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I acted as observer when my Cycle Cats were installed on my Supersport. It wasn't a piece of cake, far from it. As you observed, A+ for machine and bling factor, F for lack of clear and concise instructions. I have said that before and all of it fell on deaf ears. The cheesy instructions assumes what the people at Cycle Cat knows so therefore you get it. Well I didn't, very frustrating experience. Whats wrong with a step by step pictoral for dumb asses like me? On my Supersport there were clearance issues, mainly due to the fairing config., I couldn't take full advantage of the adjustability. I would have been better off with a set of Ferrachis, using the stock clip ons and not having to remove and replace the controls. Why not? I couldn't move the bars around much anyways with the Cycle Cats.

Good luck
 

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Infinite adjustability? Yes, but because of clearance issues with the fairing, you're not going to get much. But it's better than stock.

To remove the top yoke, you don't have to remove the center head stock nut. Just remove the damper (don't lose the washer that's underneath the joint on the frame side). Loosen the fork pinch bolts and the center pinch bolt. You'll need a cushioned dead blow hammer (at least I did) to tap the upper clamp off the forks. Work both sides evenly and it'll come off without too much trouble. Consult your shop manual for the whole skinny. Just tap it back on and torque the fasteners to specifications.

Face it, you're going to have to bleed the clutch and brake systems. Removing and relocating the reservoirs are a snap. Cover anything that you think might get splashed. Work carefully and you'll not spill a drop. Remove the reservoir caps. Have a container handy to catch the fluid and carefully remove the reservoirs from their mounting leaving the hoses attached. Dump the fluid into the container...let it drain. Turn the reservoirs over and wipe them off. Now you can remove the hoses (again being careful...be prepared...you may get a few drops of fluid. From this point on DO NOT pump the levers.

Clean out the reservoirs. I use Castrol Super Clean and hot water. Dry throughly. After you get the risers mounted, mount the reservoirs but leave off the hoses. Install the front fairing and adjust the bars to your preference and for clearance. You might need to re-position the reservoirs for clearance. Now that you're satisfied with the bar position, remove the fairing, measure nipple-to-nipple for the hose lengths, cut and install the hoses.

Flush and bleed the hydraulics. This isn't as hard as some make it out to be.

Tip 1: Be prepared to drill some holes in the bars for the electrical controls. The plastic housings has "pegs" that fit into holes in the bars. Resist the temptation to remove the pegs from the housings. Drill the bars. They're already center-punched with the proper locations. Trial fit before you drill.

Tip 2: You'll need to route the throttle cable in front of the fork. You'll also have to rotate the throttle so that the cable exits the housing from the bottom (fast idle button facing upwards).

Tip 3: Apply anti-sieze on any fastener that threads into aluminum (per the instuctions). Put some underneath the socket head where it bears against the aluminum. You're going to be doing a lot of tightening and loosening of the fasteners to get the bars where you like them. This saves a lot of wear and tear and prevents galling should you be ham fisted with a wrench.

I'll take some photos tonite and post them in the morning. Take your time and you'll be fine.
 

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Paulo covered it quit well.
Just take your time and pre-fit everything prior to tightening.
I also had to reroute the enrichening cable from the left bar to get enough slack.

They made a huge difference in my ability to stay on the bike for longer periods of time. 400+ mile day to Monterey for Moto GP was a breeze with the CycleCats.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone.

Thanks Paulo! Excellent instructions. I would appreciate the pics, anything to give me a head start on set up.

I needed to replace my clutch/brake fluid anyway and this install will force that issue. :)
 

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Yep, Paulo covered it well. When I installed my Cyclecats, I went ahead and drained and replaced both the clutch and brake fluid, and replaced the slave cylinder as well. I also did the initial install without the front fairing on, it made getting to all the bolts and such a lot easier. Then I put the fairing back on to dial in my settings for the bars.
 

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level7 said:
It just compounded the install because now i have to remove the top yoke.
FWIW, I didn't take the triples off when I installed mine. I just jacked up the front end and dropped the forks down until I could get the clip-ons between the top of the forks and the upper triple. Then I threaded the forks back up through both the clip-ons and the yoke. Not a one-man operation, but it wasn't that bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
paulo57509 said:
Some installed photos. I don't know how helpful these will be.

Sorry about some of the exposures; it's dark in that corner of my garage.
Thanks, that second picture was very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
paulo57509 said:
Very helpful, nice, except for the yahmzuki in the back ground. That annoyed me alot :) LOL.

Thanks Paulo, very helpful indeed. Now at least I know approx. what height I should set the bars to start. Can you tell me if the resevoirs block your view of the gauges?

Can't wait to try them on.

Thanks.
 

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I never found the Cycle Cat bar risers to be dificult to install. With the right tools, and a a little skill, it is actually very easy. If you have a front stand that can hold under the triples--dropping the forks is easy. It is generally an hour job.

There is no reason to re-bleed. You can swap reservoirs on the 999 kits with out bleeding if you do it right. The fluid on the reservoir side is not pressurized so it will not effect the line.

The 748-998 kits just swap over without opening the lines or changing resrvoirs. Some of the kits come with new reservoir mounts--I think the 748-996 come with it. I mounted mine on the inside ends of the handlebar so I could get more clearance.

I've seen several of the hinged style clip-ons break at the hinge (including the OEM)-this may be the reason why Cycle Cat makes them solid.

If you need some help on the install, please feel free to call.
 

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moto said:
I mounted mine on the inside ends of the handlebar so I could get more clearance.
Picture would be helpful!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
brust60 said:
Picture would be helpful!
Look at Paulo's picture threads, he has the reservoirs mounted on the bar ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
moto said:
...

I've seen several of the hinged style clip-ons break at the hinge (including the OEM)-this may be the reason why Cycle Cat makes them solid.

If you need some help on the install, please feel free to call.
That makes sense. I'll give you a call if I can't figure it out. Thanks.
 

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level7 said:
Look at Paulo's picture threads, he has the reservoirs mounted on the bar ends.
its always better to look first.... :D
 

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Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead...

I installed some Cycle Cats on my 996s this past weekend, and while I was in heaven after initially installing them, I soon found out once you put the front nose fairing on, you are drastically limited as to the height and flatness of the bars.

Maybe I need to do some more adjusting, but it's so limited, even with the risers as low as they can go on the forks, that the kill switch impedes me from 'locking' the bike with the ignition. Nothing like doing some parking lot u-turns and having the fairing hit the kill switch!

Dana
 
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