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Discussion Starter #42
I have a number of methods and chemicals depending on the level of gunk. I normally start with some mineral spirits...just plain old paint thinner. It works for most stuff.

I just use a stiff bristle brush from Harbor Freight and a disposable aluminum pan for like, like baking a turkey or something. Cake pan size, 2.5" deep.....pretty well perfect for containing the run off.

Once I'm done with that, if it still has some stuff left behind, I'll use either some diluted Simple Green and a tooth brush to get into crevices and other detail lines.

That's normally as far as I have to go. It if is just minor stuff, pretty much the route you've gone. WD-40 and a tooth brush....or brake clean. Carb cleaner if it is between the two in terms of crud build up.

About all I got.....but that's just what I use at home. Professionally, I have a ton more options that most people don't have access to.........sean
cake pan is a great idea! I had WD-40 and Brake Cleaner running all over the place along with a big nasty stream of grime last night. What would you spray the bearings down with at the end of a clean like this to be sure there's no grit or dirt that made their way in there? I was trying to be careful, but dirt was flying everywhere. I guess if there's a little bit the first fire up in oil will clean any residue left?
 

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For plain bearings use brake cleaner spray and plenty of it! You could also use acetone or any other similar solvent, but it would need to be used as a pressurised spray to work effectively.
You will be replacing roller and ball bearings as a matter of course (I hope) as you will never be certain to clean these properly in-situ, and once they are out you may as well replace with new.
Any remnants of the clean-up process MAY be flushed out by new oil but a speck of grit could find its way into any of your bearings and destroy them straight away...
 

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Selling a crank case in the parts and accessories section. It may or may not work depending on the part numbers. But It does hurt to take a look through :)
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Got the halves back together to measure the preload. The factory shims from the other crankcase were 2.2mm on either side and it felt like a fair amount of interference just turning the shaft by hand. I was reading that you really need to start your measurements from the standard 1.9mm shims. I ordered some of those and just put them in to measure my float, but with the 1.9mm in after torquing the halves to spec I am not getting any float on the crank. It turns super easy by hand but when I use a screwdriver to move the crank up and down I'm getting zero float.

If I take the shims out I get enough float where the crank webbing contacts the side of the case so I'm guessing that doesn't give me accurate results?

Any tips for a noob?


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have you got the inner chamfer of the 1.9mm shims against the crank fillet?

other than that can only be the mains or carriers are not fully seated.
 

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I just finished reading the entire thread. Now I'm feeling a bit uneasy. I just bought a 1996 900SS/CR with 17k miles on it three weeks ago (haven't ridden it yet, carbs are being refurbished). After learning of cracked frames at the headstock, and now cracked/broken engine mounts on the cases ... I can't help but think "what have I got myself in to here?"

I bought a Ducati thinking it was a world class motorcycle. Now I'm frettin' over cracked frames, cracked engine cases, broken head bolts (yes, I have the chrome colored ones .. BUT I have a full set of the stock black ones on hand) ... lions and tigers and bears OH MY!

It's no one's fault but my own. I should have done more research on the brand/model/year before I turned loose of $4k.

ugh ...

:frown2: :( :| :( :surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #49
have you got the inner chamfer of the 1.9mm shims against the crank fillet?

other than that can only be the mains or carriers are not fully seated.
I triple-checked that the chamfer was against the crank (so both chamfers are facing each other) when I fit everything back together for measurement, but in hopes that is something that simple I'll double-check again.

I'll check the mains and give them a little tap to be sure they are seated too.
 

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make sure the seats are all the way in, but you'll need to heat the cases a lot to get them to move. the bearings sometimes need to be tapped all the way in, then you turn the cases over and they fall straight out!

otherwise - bizarre, but something is definitely not right
 

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I just finished reading the entire thread. Now I'm feeling a bit uneasy. I just bought a 1996 900SS/CR with 17k miles on it three weeks ago (haven't ridden it yet, carbs are being refurbished). After learning of cracked frames at the headstock, and now cracked/broken engine mounts on the cases ... I can't help but think "what have I got myself in to here?"

I bought a Ducati thinking it was a world class motorcycle. Now I'm frettin' over cracked frames, cracked engine cases, broken head bolts (yes, I have the chrome colored ones .. BUT I have a full set of the stock black ones on hand) ... lions and tigers and bears OH MY!

It's no one's fault but my own. I should have done more research on the brand/model/year before I turned loose of $4k.

ugh ...

:frown2: :( :| :( :surprise:
No worries, its just takes money and time to fix anything if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
It's been a while but recently got inspired to find all my parts and work on getting this thing back on the road. I figured out what my problem was with the measurements not coming out on my preload - my 1.90mm measuring shims from ducati were actually a 2.15 and a 2.2 labeled as 1.9's. Once that was straight, everything worked out.

I was recently attempting to torque my primary drive gear nut and having difficulty getting anywhere close the manual's stated torque of 190NM. Tonight I rigged up holder for the motor to keep it from moving around on me and enable getting some good leverage on the torque wrench and my clutch holding tool gave out (bent up real good) before I got to the desired torque. Just curious if there are any tips on keeping things steady and stationary while getting that bad boy torqued down. I've read about rags or a penny jammed into the gears but honestly, that scares me a bit! I doubt I'd break a gear tooth but I'd sure hate to find out the hard way...
 
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