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Discussion Starter #21
Winter is not too far away, and you know, the good Lord did create winter for motorcycle projects :smile2:
Rushing into winter are we :smile2: Looks like I have my winter project all lined up for me now! Although here in Coastal Virginia, I ride all but 2 or 3 weeks of the year. I'd almost rather ride in chilly weather over 95F and 97% humidity... pretty much the entire month of August!
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Time for an update! Been sloooowly working on stripping down the case and finally got it prepped for welding. Then the bad news: the guy who I had lined up to weld it looked at it again today and decided the damage was too great that the cost of him machining a new piece to fit in the missing chunk and all the heat he'd put in the case would be too much for him to feel comfortable.

On to plan b. I found an empty case for on fleabay for ~$200. Supposedly in good shape with less than 15k miles on it. Sounds like I'll be springing for that and putting all my internals into that one. Anything I should look out for before purchasing?

I'm already in way over my head, I figure why not go all out and swap cases and then figure out how to set the preload and all that jazz :smile2: Perhaps a dumb question, but will preload be different since I'd be using matching case halves, not mixing cases from 2 different motors? I'm sure I'll be asking a million questions here soon if I get to reassembly.

In other news, keep in eye out in the classifieds for a nice ST4s part out






 

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My friend has an ST4s that needs to be parted out. It's here in Mass. I believe the engine still runs well...Would you like me to ask him?
 

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I'd definitely be interested!

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Looks like he sold the engine. here's his email RE: to me:

Engine is solid. These engines are most desirable as 851 race bike upgrades... But time to part out. Cheaper to buy another than fix.
 

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Engine is sold? Or engine is solid? :confused:
He was saying that the engine was in solid condition, but it has been sold. Sorry for the confusion.

And he inferred that it's cheaper (for him) to buy another ST4s than to repair his...
 

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I'm already in way over my head, I figure why not go all out and swap cases and then figure out how to set the preload and all that jazz :smile2: Perhaps a dumb question, but will preload be different since I'd be using matching case halves, not mixing cases from 2 different motors? I'm sure I'll be asking a million questions here soon if I get to reassembly.

The preload on the bearings is needed for the bearings to operate optimally. It will not change with different cases. If I remember correctly, the factory manual gives an interference number (like .015 mm something) that you use to set the preload. You add shims (thin washers) to achieve your interference. The interference is achieved when you do your final torque on the bolts that clamp the inner cases together.
 

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FWIW

here are before and after shots of a broken mount on a DS1000 engine
The weld repair was only $50
 

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I have to disagree, if using the internals from one motor and the cases from another, the crank pre-load will probably be different. The shims are to allow for manufacturing variables in both the cases and the crankshaft sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The preload on the bearings is needed for the bearings to operate optimally. It will not change with different cases. If I remember correctly, the factory manual gives an interference number (like .015 mm something) that you use to set the preload. You add shims (thin washers) to achieve your interference. The interference is achieved when you do your final torque on the bolts that clamp the inner cases together.
Oh, so as long as I use the same exact shims from my old case, there shouldn't be an issue since the preload won't change with different cases? Am I understanding that correctly? My new (used obviously) cases just showed up yesterday so hopefully in 2 weeks after a work trip I'll be working on reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I have to disagree, if using the internals from one motor and the cases from another, the crank pre-load will probably be different. The shims are to allow for manufacturing variables in both the cases and the crankshaft sizes.
Just saw this after my last post - perhaps I'll measure everything up just to verify...
 

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Just saw this after my last post - perhaps I'll measure everything up just to verify...
My previous comment about preload was misunderstood. After rereading my post I can understand why. The preload must be calculated and adjusted using the crank shims each time new cases or new bearings are used. I misunderstood the question.
 

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Not just the crankshaft but transmission and shift drum also are shimmed with different shims, I have 4 different organizers with about 8 or 9 different Id/Od shims for the different shafts.

Bottom line is you need to measure every shaft for end float and gear engagement. Hey at least it is new enough you don't have to shim the layshaft anymore!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Not just the crankshaft but transmission and shift drum also are shimmed with different shims, I have 4 different organizers with about 8 or 9 different Id/Od shims for the different shafts.

Bottom line is you need to measure every shaft for end float and gear engagement. Hey at least it is new enough you don't have to shim the layshaft anymore!
Well if I thought I was in over my head before, I'm drowning now! I'm sure it's probably more cost effective to cut my losses and move on, but I like messing around with new stuff and have never been this deep into something mechanical. Even if it doesn't go well, I think I'll accept the challenge. Guess it's time to check the tool inventory and find out what I'll need.
 

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Not much else for tools .
dial indicator.....

keep the right shims the same as they were in the original motor and build from the right engine case with no shims on the left side of the shaft/ reassemble and bolt cases together and then measure end float. Add shims to get the correct end float on the right side of the shafts . this works for all but the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Finally broke out the new (to me) cases tonight out of the box. They look pretty good compared to mine. They also supposedly only had 14k miles on them versus my 37k.

Question: what are you guys using to attack the years of grime and buildup on engines? Been scrubbing away with a toothbrush here for a while and tried some WD-40 as well as some brake cleaner on the tough grime. Still have a ways to go as apparent in the photo. Any chemicals or method you found is worth well over the years?

Now onto Amazon to hunt up a decent dial indicator...


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Question: what are you guys using to attack the years of grime and buildup on engines? Been scrubbing away with a toothbrush here for a while and tried some WD-40 as well as some brake cleaner on the tough grime. Still have a ways to go as apparent in the photo. Any chemicals or method you found is worth well over the years?

Kerosene from your local hardware store paint section.



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Question: what are you guys using to attack the years of grime and buildup on engines?

Any chemicals or method you found is worth well over the years?
I have a number of methods and chemicals depending on the level of gunk. I normally start with some mineral spirits...just plain old paint thinner. It works for most stuff.

I just use a stiff bristle brush from Harbor Freight and a disposable aluminum pan for like, like baking a turkey or something. Cake pan size, 2.5" deep.....pretty well perfect for containing the run off.

Once I'm done with that, if it still has some stuff left behind, I'll use either some diluted Simple Green and a tooth brush to get into crevices and other detail lines.

That's normally as far as I have to go. It if is just minor stuff, pretty much the route you've gone. WD-40 and a tooth brush....or brake clean. Carb cleaner if it is between the two in terms of crud build up.

About all I got.....but that's just what I use at home. Professionally, I have a ton more options that most people don't have access to.........sean
 
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