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Hey Folks,

I haven't made many posts, and am absolutely new to the Ducati scene. I know there are a couple of threads in here that talk about coring a 999 exhaust, but in the interest of having all the available information for people attempting the same job, I thought I would post my progress as well with detailed outlines to try and give another perspective to those of you who are wanting to tackle the job!

I will post pictures and explanations as they appear, and at the end I will post a before and after video/sound clip of the exhaust. My estimated cost right now is around $250 Cdn, so that works out to about 8% less for you Americans. I didn't get a smoking deal on the muffler, so that brings my costs up.

1. You can see the exhaust and heat shield separated. There are two screws on the side, and one on the end. Use an alley key and take them off.

2. Next, you will see my cut. I used a GOOD quality 4 1/2 stainless steel cut off wheel and an angle grinder. I must advise you use a good quality one as the poor quality ones do not cut as well and get dull, thereby slowly increasing the cut 'size' and will make it odd to weld back up! I cut around the edges on the top of the 'weld' so that when I tig it back up, it will have more than enough metal to attach to. Also, there is a 'brace' in the middle. Cut through that. It is welded to the part you are pulling off, as well as the bottom, but I believe that is simply a brace to add strength to part of the muffler, so you can just go ahead and cut right through that. Tig welding will seal that right back up.

3. Go ahead and inspect your 'wookie hair' :D There is a bunch left on the top you will be removing (which is actually the 'bottom' of the muffler). Keep that on there if you want, You'll just be reusing it when you pop it back on :)

4. You can see on the bottom part which contains the 'internals' (actually the 'top' of the muffler) You are about to have the most fun you've ever had in your life removing the guts :D NOT!

5. I ground off the edges of the baffling with a grinder, and then said F*$& it, and headed off to my friends shop where he had a plasma cutter warmed up and ready to go! you NEED a plasma cutter to take the internals out if you want to retain any of your sanity at the end of the day folks.
 

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*carried forward as 5 attachments are only allowed at once*

6. Get that plasma a' goin. Take out all the 'pipes'. Laugh at ducati's funny design, feel free to mock it. It's heavy and rather useless. Enjoy giggling at the 'honeycomb' inserts they put in some of the pipes. Just generally enjoy torching the hell out of a perfectly good muffler!

7. Some of the pipes out, continuing along!

8. This picture is with ALL of the pipes out. There is another baffling at the bottom (which is great because hot plasma usually drips onto it burns holes through it ) You 'can' retain this if you want, It really serves no purpose for what I am going to do, so I took it out. Use your angle grinder again, cut along both the inlet and outlet pipes until you can free the baffle up. Its just tack welded along the inlets and outlets so its not rocket science to get it off. Just be sure when you are prying it, you don't bugger up the shell.

9. Marvel at your accomplishments! You have successfully preformed removed about 30 lbs of garbage from your muffler. Its light as a feather and looks fantabulous at this point.

10. You can see my outlet sizes. They have increased about a 1/4 inch from factory size. When you are grinding the guts out of it, you will have to grind on the INSIDE of the outlet, to the point that the 'tip's of the outlet can pop out. Get those out FIRST, and then grind away the rest. Take your time, like I said its not rocket science but be careful not to slice up your shell because its just extra work to Tig.








**More pictures to come! Perforated Baffling will be inserted. Stainless steel wool will surround the baffling, it will be attached to stainless steel tips which will be compressed to make up larger outlets but still retain an 'oval' shape**
 

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Couple more progress pictures. About an hour of labour and I have one of the pipes cut in. Had to press the end of one of the pipes. the other has held its circular form well (go stainless!) So I should only have to bend the perforated tip just a bit!
 

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Hey CurtZX,
Nice write up so far. I'm in the process of doing this myself. I've cut the top off, but I haven't had a chance to get the guts out... I'll keep an eye on your thread. For others out there, perhaps you can share with us what size pipe you purchased, and other details about the items needed for the project. I've purchased 2" diameter ss perforated pipe and ss wool. Haven't purchased the remaining ss tubing yet, was considering going with a 2.25". I managed to get one 999 can shipped to me for $50, and another shipped for $75, which I thought were pretty decent prices. I anticipate it will take approximately $60-90 worth of materials to do each one. The weight of my 999 can was 20 lbs prior to cutting open.
 

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I am by no means an expert, and have yet to grind the other hole, but I am going to suggest sticking with 2". You have to crush it to an oval (I used a hammer but you could also use a heavy duty press) and it will lay flat on the bottom (top) and you will only have about a 1/4 inch of room on the top portion. I'd hazard a guess anything larger than 2 inches and you are going to be pushing it.
 

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Using stainless steel wool will result in a higher pitch sound than if you use fiberglass. If you're worried about the fiberglass blowing out you can wrap the tubes in a thin layer of SS wool and stuff the rest of the voume with fiberglass...
 

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That is what I was going to do if I can find some SS here, wrap the baffling in a light layer of it, then the rest pack it with fiberglass (will be able to repack a lot of the original stuff back in there I'd assume)
 

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Mocked things up today for their tack/weld this evening.

If my tips don't look lined up, that is because they are not. Had to prop it up on some roofing nails so they wouldn't keep falling out of place.

So far, very happy with the project. I 'think' I am going to have enough steel wool that I took out of the original muffler to wrap the baffles with, and then I will pack the outside of the cans with the old fiberglass and I bought a couple of new rolls of fiberglass to back around the steel wool/baffles.

More pictures to follow.
 

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Welp! Got er all finished up! (will post sound clips too)

Here are a couple cell shots, I will get better ones later! Kind of bummed because my clutch is slipping hard now so it might be the end of my riding season because I refuse to spend any more $ on this damn thing and we have to put em away soon anyway.

Regardless, great great tone! Very similar to a termi exhaust. Actually, cant even tell the difference. Would I do this again? Not on your life. Horrible and very time consuming project. Make SURE you know a great welder because he/she will save your life with this one.

OH, and if anybody needs perforated stainless pipe I have about 2.5 feet left and also a bunch of stainless tubing you can use for tips.

**edit**

I should also add, my total tally of parts including the muffler was about $160 cdn. So IF you have the time, its certainly a worthwhile project.
 

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did you ever end up getting a sound clip? I'm very interested in doing this as i already did it halfway (removed the cat from within). did you get the deep loud noise or is it still quiet with the hollow 4 wheeler sound?
 

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exhaust

Nice detailed post. Here it is almost exactly 5 years after you posted it, and I plan on using your post to tear my exhaust apart this weekend. I did buy a throw away can for $50 off E-bay though, just in case we mess it up.
 

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Did you see how much does it weight now?

With the OEM weight you can kill a T-Rex if you throw it on him! :D
 

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Well done on the exhaust, I wish I knew this when I owned my 749 Dark, I loved the bike but the exhaust was way too hot and I put some Mivv slip ons which really helped to lower the temperatures. Beside the great sound is it running cooler?
 
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