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Discussion Starter #1
I recently found that my bike was running hot so I:
• Drained the coolant (there was only 1 litre in!) and attempted to add new coolant but could only manage to get 2.9 litres of coolant in before it was full. I thing there should be 3.5 litres of coolant. I removed all three drain plug and put the bike on the side stand.
• I then when for a eight miles ride, left it over night to cool, then squished the hoses to get trapped air out but could not get any more in
• The bike is now incontinent of coolant
• I now have a problem starting the bike (the lights come on but the starter motor does not turn or even make a sound) which I think is due to coolant getting on to the starter motor connection, so I wiggle them about
• I final got the bike started but it was running hot at about 100C. However it had been 120 C plus before changing the coolant
• The result of running the bike hot is that the clutch fluid has gone a dark brown, I can not disengage the clutch to change down gear when it gets hot
• At traffic lights I had to hold the clutch in an put the brakes on because I could not get neutral

Help me please where do I start?

How do I get all the coolant in and stop in dripping?

I will change the clutch fluid.

Have I damaged (burnt) the clutch plates?

Does it sound reasonable that my electrical problem is due the coolant getting on the starter motor connections?

Thank you for any advise.
 

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It sounds like your clutch may need to be replaced. Is it slipping?

You need to completely flush your coolant. Use deionized water and keep flushing until all particles come out. Then add fresh 50/50 with a splash of water wetter.

Make sure your fan is working properly.

If you are losing coolant, it may indicate a gasket leak...are you experiencing smoke from the exhaust? Is your oil color milky?
 

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I am not surprised you could not get all 3.5 litres in. Unless you take all the hoses off and turn the bike on its side, etc. you cannot get all the coolant out. Some will always still be in the engine, radiator, and other places. I think you got plenty in.

At least on the 999, to get air out of the system all you need to do is to start the bike and let it get good and hot (a bit over 100C) and let it run for a couple of minutes. Then let it cool down. If one fails to do this the bike will run very hot on the street.

It is normal for some of the coolant to come out of the expansion tank as part of the coolant change process. It will find its own proper level.

Your clutch problems should be solved by flushing the line and carefully bleeding the clutch.

You may have toasted the clutch plates a bit by sitting at stops with the clutch engaged if the plates were not fully separating. Even if you did, they are very tough and should be fine. It is rare that the friction material wears before the tangs and clutch basket have worn out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
In response to Purspeed comments I changed the clutch drum, basket, rod, springs, seals and plates less than 600 miles ago. The clutch is not slipping. The oil looks great and the bike does not smoke.

The clutch fluid does look very brown which I guess must mean it has lost some of its normal compression properties. The problem with the clutch not being able to disengage the clutch plates only happens after the bike has peaked at about 100C. After this even if the engine temperature drops due to a build up of speed I guess the clutch fluid remains hot.

Please tell me that all my problems will be solved by simply changing the clutch fluid and allowing the coolant to find its own level by expelling a little, or am I a little too hopeful.

I can not see the coolant level in the Expansion tank. The High and Low marks mean nothing to me. Do you have this problem? My coolant is a light pink colour (color).

Also you all use normal brake fluid in your clutch, DOT 4?
 

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Did you check the clutch release bearing in the middle of the
pressure plate, it might be on its way out or seized and spinning the
push rod which will heat the clutch fluid in the slave cylinder .
Giving you a soft clutch.dragging feel.

brian.
 

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If everything's functioing prperly, you can

1. Get a lower temp fan switch (fan comes on earlier to keep things cooler)

2. Install a Muzzys alu fan. If my fan hadn't melted to my rad, I never would have tried it. But, not only is it lighter, it flows significantly more air than stock and thus is significantly more effective than stock plastic fans.

You can check out pics and a write up of my install on the R1 here:
http://www.yamahar1.co.uk/apps/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?37073.0#post_37802
 

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There might be moisture (water) in your clutch line, so when the bike heats up the water changes its properties differently than the clutch fluid. Flushing and bleeding the clutch line right should help fix your problem. DOT4 works for me.

If you can't see coolant level in your expansion tank that means, there is not enough coolant... put some more coolant gradually in the expansion tank, until you see the coolant level between max and min. I generally use a torch light to look at the level.
 

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In response to Purspeed comments I changed the clutch drum, basket, rod, springs, seals and plates less than 600 miles ago. The clutch is not slipping. The oil looks great and the bike does not smoke.

The clutch fluid does look very brown which I guess must mean it has lost some of its normal compression properties. The problem with the clutch not being able to disengage the clutch plates only happens after the bike has peaked at about 100C. After this even if the engine temperature drops due to a build up of speed I guess the clutch fluid remains hot.

Please tell me that all my problems will be solved by simply changing the clutch fluid and allowing the coolant to find its own level by expelling a little, or am I a little too hopeful.

I can not see the coolant level in the Expansion tank. The High and Low marks mean nothing to me. Do you have this problem? My coolant is a light pink colour (color).

Also you all use normal brake fluid in your clutch, DOT 4?
You may need to check your friction disc's and metal plates against factory spec's.

Overheating at the time would affect the clutch action. Since the clutch is "oil bathed", if the oil gets extremely hot, it can cause slippage at the clutch plates. Clutch plates are fiberous and very thin. It does not take much to overheat them. As long both the friction and steel plates do not get burned or "hot spots" on them, they will act reasonably normal again once they are cooled down. Not like new, but normally ok. Same goes for if you have the clutch adjusted too tight. It can also cause overheating of the clutch because you are not allowing it to completely disengage.

Change the clutch fluid and look for friction disc material in the old fluid. That will indicate if anything is wrong with the discs.
 
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