Hey Everyone! May's Bike of the Month challenge is now open for entries!

ConvertiBar Install, Pieces & Parts, etc.

3473 Views 14 Replies 6 Participants Last post by BLACKBIRDXX, Jun 30, 2006

kingcapt

Discussion Starter · May 10, 2006

3

Here are several photos of the ConvertiBar Install I have mentioned over the past several weeks. Sorry it has taken soooo long. I have been a crazy busy.

I have also taken the liberty, or put differently, included pix of the grips and bar-end mirrors that I have installed as I did not have much choice as they're also part of my hand control mods that I have finally completed. -I know there has been a fair amount of interest in gel-grips, bar-end mirror options, problems with the OEMs on the Sport 1000's, etc. So I am going to kill a bunch of birds with a few stones as Ben Franlkin once quipped...or something like that...

Hope y'all like 'em. Again, sorry for taking so long. -Capt

See less See more

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

RocketJohn

· #2 · May 10, 2006

kingcapt said:
Here are several photos of the ConvertiBar Install I have mentioned over the past several weeks. Sorry it has taken soooo long. I have been a crazy busy.

I have also taken the liberty, or put differently, included pix of the grips and bar-end mirrors that I have installed as I did not have much choice as they're also part of my hand control mods that I have finally completed. -I know there has been a fair amount of interest in gel-grips, bar-end mirror options, problems with the OEMs on the Sport 1000's, etc. So I am going to kill a bunch of birds with a few stones as Ben Franlkin once quipped...or something like that...

Hope y'all like 'em. Again, sorry for taking so long. -Capt

Someone needs to let the KING borrow a real camera...

bassphreek

· #3 · May 10, 2006

RocketJohn said:
Someone needs to let the KING borrow a real camera...

agreed! the razr is a nice phone...leave it at that. jk

kingcapt

Discussion Starter · #4 · May 11, 2006 (Edited)

What's wrong with a .25meger pixley camera/shoe phone?

Hey, hey, hey...easy. That was a genuwine .25meger pixley thingamyjigger camera/shoe phone?I didn't want to burn yer all eyes out of yer heads with that ultra hi restitution photon camera thingy.

But since it seems I got a bunch of wisen-hoffers nippin' at me, I'll try to upload some reaal picts.
-Capt

RocketJohn

· #5 · May 11, 2006

many thanks in advance....

Imola72

· #6 · May 11, 2006

Looks very clean. Can you describe what you did with the holes for the stock mirror mounts ?

wa6usa

· #7 · May 11, 2006

+1 Pix should reveal a lot. I'm exactly one week away from the install. I have the convertibars, and today I got the throttle cable, just don't want to muck up the job in my garage, and then limp over to someone who does this every day for help. I'll start with the professional install, and see what happens. Nice bar end mirrors Capt.! How did you cover the holes on the fairing mounted ones? Or are you running an extra set of mirrors?

kingcapt

Discussion Starter · #8 · May 11, 2006 (Edited)

5

Converti-Bars,Bar-end Mirrors, Reservoirs: Take 2

Brothers & Sisters, let's try this again (the photos...):

[/B]First my goal:
To make quality mods that appear as OEM as possible to maintain the integrity of the design and to intergrate these "upgrades" seamlessly into the machine.[/B]
The Mirror conversion:
I ran stainless button cap-head screws to fill the OEM Mirror holes. I chose polished stainless over chrome (I checked out both as I have Chrome goodies lying around too). The polished stainless looks OEM, which was my desired outcome for all mods. I used a metric head to be consistent, thread was I believe 1/4-20, length was I believe 5/8" or 3/4". I used Nylock Stainless nuts.
Reservoirs:Rizoma, Mirrors, grips, bar-end caps too.
Throttle Cables: MTS1000DS, Dual Push/Pull set-up
Bars: Converti-Bars
A word on the Converti's; I will be cutting the stalks and replacing the black caps on the bottom after the cut is made. This will remove the portion of the design that wil not be used. It will clean up the fork tube in the process. Not that it's ugly to look at. It's just weight/metal not needed for a clean job. You can see the satin finish slider "stalk: running down the fork tube at about 2:00 to the rider position.

The really nice thing about this set-up is that the hand grip position is hugely adjustable to the riders size, hand position, and preference. I made several adjustments while on a long(ish) trip this past weekend where I rode a little over 1,200 miles in 3 1/2 days. Hope this helps everyone sort out there ideas.
-Capt

See less See more

wa6usa

· #9 · May 11, 2006

kingcapt said:
Brothers & Sisters, let's try this again (the photos...):

The really nice thing about this set-up is that the hand grip position is hugely adjustable to the riders size, hand position, and preference. I made several adjustments while on a long(ish) trip this past weekend where I rode a little over 1,200 miles in 3 1/2 days. Hope this helps everyone sort out there ideas.
-Capt

Very nice photo's Capt. I'm not contemplating any changes to your design which I plan to plagiarize heavily, how much difference did it make on the long haul? As you know from another thread on this forum, the cycle cat folks have been reading our mail and offered a solution. I still feel the convertibars adds more room for changes, than a fixed set up. That said, how helpful was this solution in your opinion? Could you make it longer than a tank of gas before getting off the bike for a stretch? I will know the answer to this question next week anyway, but it would be nice to know if pulling the bars back, and adjusting the angle of the bar grip makes a huge difference.
It's sunny and warm here, and I'm off work today, gotta ride.

kingcapt

Discussion Starter · #10 · May 12, 2006

The Converti's work real well. I would think that you would want to get off the bike during fill-ups. I have ridden repeatedly ridden from 135-140 miles without putting a foot down. But you know really, I generally do similiar to that regardless of the bike I'm riding. I mean they all need petrol.

That said, I think they make the whole machine feel different. When you change the bar position, particularly when bringing out and back, it makes the chassis feel shorter, and the bike not quite as "tall", if you know what I mean. Anyway, the interchangeability makes this set-up ideal.

You know I participated the other day in discussion over whether or not it was worth it to trade-in an ST4s for a Smart. Personally, I am not sure I would. Here's why, if it's your only scoot, the ST4s is more utilitarian. And it's still got the "Duc" thing, in spades. -But I've got the Smart set-up real well, and I have been almost embarassed at all the attention it has received. I was at the Ducs on the Blue Ridge (GREAT EVENT!!!) and I was almost self-conscious because people really went nuts over it. And these guys weren't a bunch of couch taters either. They were motorcyclists, all of 'em. -Capt

See less See more

BLACKBIRDXX

· #11 · Jun 16, 2006

kingcapt said:
Brothers & Sisters, let's try this again (the photos...):

[/B]First my goal:
To make quality mods that appear as OEM as possible to maintain the integrity of the design and to intergrate these "upgrades" seamlessly into the machine.[/B]
The Mirror conversion:
I ran stainless button cap-head screws to fill the OEM Mirror holes. I chose polished stainless over chrome (I checked out both as I have Chrome goodies lying around too). The polished stainless looks OEM, which was my desired outcome for all mods. I used a metric head to be consistent, thread was I believe 1/4-20, length was I believe 5/8" or 3/4". I used Nylock Stainless nuts.
Reservoirs:Rizoma, Mirrors, grips, bar-end caps too.
Throttle Cables: MTS1000DS, Dual Push/Pull set-up
Bars: Converti-Bars
-Capt

Hey Capt, Where are you picking up the Rizoma parts? I see EMA was trying to offer Rizoma here in the states but not anymore.....

Your solution to attaching the headlight fairing support looks clean but I am concerned that now all the stresses associated with this attachment are focused holes in the plastic fairing and not distributed as in the OEM setup. I have seen aftermarket "plates" that attach to where the OEM mirrors attached but I can't find them anywhere.....

kingcapt

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jun 17, 2006

Birdman,
I have been getting my Rizoma stuff from [email protected]

The cat's name is PJ. Seems to be a real good dude. As to the Fairing upper supports, I don't think you would have any problems, personally. First of all, the fairing support actually has a quite long contact area on the fairing upright. Aside from that, I used thin nylon washers under the button heads (which have a nice surface area too) to eliminate "mashing" the face of the buttonhead into the paint. Keep in mind there is not a great deal of strength required to support the uprights. You don't need to torque them to 100 ft lbs or anything, as they aren't part of a roll cage...

I have 1,500 miles or so on them and don't see any issues. Again, don't crank 'em in like there's no tomorrow and I can't see the upright getting stressed. -Capt

BLACKBIRDXX

· #13 · Jun 17, 2006

kingcapt said:
Birdman,
I have been getting my Rizoma stuff from [email protected]

The cat's name is PJ. Seems to be a real good dude. As to the Fairing upper supports, I don't think you would have any problems, personally. First of all, the fairing support actually has a quite long contact area on the fairing upright. Aside from that, I used thin nylon washers under the button heads (which have a nice surface area too) to eliminate "mashing" the face of the buttonhead into the paint. Keep in mind there is not a great deal of strength required to support the uprights. You don't need to torque them to 100 ft lbs or anything, as they aren't part of a roll cage... I have 1,500 miles or so on them and don't see any issues. Again, don't crank 'em in like there's no tomorrow and I can't see the upright getting stressed. -Capt

Capt,

Thanks for the info. Your rational for dealing with the fairing mounting holes makes sense.

I found PJ's WEB SITE.

Can you give a bit more detail on the Throttle Cables: MTS1000DS, Dual Push/Pull set-up? I am guessing the Rizoma grip assembly requires this change.

Are your end caps from Rizoma? I could not find them on their web site. I did find Rizoma end caps but they don't look the same as yours.

Which Rizoma "Fluid Tanks" are you using?

Your design is OUTSTANDING. I am thinking if I do go down this road I might get the parts and pieces anodized in gold to match the forks. Actually most of the Rizoma parts in your list do come in gold and with the exception of the mirrors and end caps.

Sound like I am asking for a complete parts list and instructions

Guess I am, but any additional help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

See less See more

kingcapt

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jun 30, 2006

Rizoma pieces parts!

Double X,
I am sorry I am sooo long in getting back with you. My response time and chiming in on the Reindeer Games here drops precipitously this time of year. If I'm not working or doing my Fatherly duties...I'm riding!

The Rizoma parts I used were:
#BS070A mirrors-polished, and the bar-ends with the Black end piece -#MA506A, the Grips, #GR205A would work well with the bar-ends.

The reservoirs for the front brake actually using the CT027T part#, CT015T for the clutch.

Phil, please, please, double-check these numbers against the Rizoma catalog (online). I pulled this list and cut/paste/edited it for you as I didn't pull my actual file on Mr Smart as it's before 6:00am EDST.

The bottom line is this (and this will get you where you need to go...):
I ran the polished grips with black rubber. I used the Rizoma Racing series bar-end sliders, as they really look nice. (I think detail makes all the difference in the world when setting up a bike!) I ran polished mirrors which are very, very nice quality. -look like a million bucks, are very trim, well machined, all business looking. Here's where I departed from the Polished finish. I ran the Ti "fluid tanks". I thought they better fit the overall hand control appearance, look very exotic, and blend in real well to the intended OEM appearance theme. I used the 27 for the brake, and the 15 for the clutch. The 27 is slightly shorter and fatter (same volume I do believe) and the clutch is 15 and worked beautifully and again, looks stock.

My apologeeeze again for being tardy in my motorcicle-brotherhood duties of sharing information. -But I just gots to ride, ride, ride when I can, man! -Hope you understand.

-Capt

See less See more

BLACKBIRDXX

· #15 · Jun 30, 2006

kingcapt said:
Double X,
I am sorry I am sooo long in getting back with you. My response time and chiming in on the Reindeer Games here drops precipitously this time of year. If I'm not working or doing my Fatherly duties...I'm riding!

Phil, please, please, double-check these numbers against the Rizoma catalog (online). I pulled this list and cut/paste/edited it for you as I didn't pull my actual file on Mr Smart as it's before 6:00am EDST.

My apologeeeze again for being tardy in my motorcicle-brotherhood duties of sharing information. -But I just gots to ride, ride, ride when I can, man! -Hope you understand. -Capt

Capt,
"Apologeeezes" not required!

Can you give a bit more detail on the Throttle Cables: MTS1000DS, Dual Push/Pull set-up? I am guessing the Rizoma grip assembly requires this change.

Thanks for all the details and YES I will be sure to double-check everything. I know the feeling of giving someone the details of one's project and hoping you have covered everything. I hereby "officially" obsolve you of any responsibility.

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.