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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
All,

I've been lurking this forum for several years now- currently have a 2010 SFS. Had it for about a year and finally did my 7000 mile service. Need some help diagnosing this one...and am looking to the collective wisdom here for some insight or thoughts.

Background-

I marked the cam/pulleys- pulled the belts and adjusted the valves= ending valve clearances are as follows (a few were out of spec)/ all measurements in mm, unless otherwise noted.

Horizontal:
Intake Closers- Left .10 Right .05
Exhaust Closers- Left .05 Right .05 (these were a little tight though, .05 was hard to get in from the front but i could slide it in from the side)

Openers
Intake openers: Left .15 Right .15
Exhaust: Left .10-.15 (.10 Fit easily / .15 would not go in, I think its at .13 ish)
Right .10-.15 (same as above)

Vertical (this cylinder was mostly in spec)
All Closers at .05

Openers
Intake Left .15 Right .15
Exhaust Left .15 Right .15

During shimming sequence- I had a bit of trouble with the collets (had to use the punch tool and a rubber mallet (gently) to get the shim down to remove the collet and had trouble re-seating them but I used the rocker arm tang to set them (flick them on) they were on and did not spin. Placed the cam journals back on and tightened everything down to specified torques, the cams rotated fine inside their journals. Placed the bike back at TDC for the vertical cylinder, rotated the intake cam to its mark. NOTE: the horizontal cam guide mark (for lining up the belts) wore off as i was working with it (intake)- luckily i took several pictures at each step and was able to line things up by the pictures (please note this point). Tightened belts up- no issues. Completed re-assembly.

I also installed a new K&N air filter-

Scenario-

The bike started and idles fine (actually died out three times but I think its the new air filter and a lean condition) but once warmed up holds idle fine, no back firing or stuttering on acceleration. At idle the bike is very quiet but under load, i get a ticking sound that was not there before and I can hear it over a the TERMIs. The bike pulls hard still- but i did not get on it because of the ticking- it is noticeable. I believe its coming from the horizontal cylinder....

There is not a significant increase in exhaust smoke.

About the idle- it died 3 times in the garage then idled fine after a few times around the block (initially though I had to give it a bit of gas to keep it from dying out). Once fully warmed up it seemed to idle just fine. New plugs added as well.

Questions:

1. Do you think I should go back and re-adjust those exhaust closers? With the clearance being on the tight end will it cause that kind of noise?
2. I believe the ticking is coming from the horizontal cylinder- do you think i can be off a few milimeters (or one tooth) during the belt install? Will the bike still start up and idle that easily- if this was the case? I don't believe I am off by a tooth but ...


Let me know your thoughts... I have no problem tearing it back down and getting back into it.

FWIW- first time doing a desmo valve adjust, was complicated but not overly taxing,I do all my own service. Have a great dealer near by but like the satisfaction of working on my own bikes (I commute 365-ish) so I kind of have to. Also I usually ride with ear plugs in but did not on my test ride.

jb
 

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You're not riding padronanniversary's bike are you?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ha! I know, I saw that after I posted mine- different scenarios though...
 

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Bon Vivant
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Are those the starting numbers? in the end did you adjust them all to spec? what numbers? did you move the cam pullys at all?
Sounds like you may need to adjust cam timing.

I'm also surprised because it looks like you had a few numbers that were pretty loose - often those will tighten over time and wouldn't make noise.
do the cams look like they have a lot of wear?

I know I'm not much help - I wish I had more experience with this stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update

I went back in and am currently in the process of re-checking/shimming my horizontal exhaust closers. I've got tear down to a science now- can get to the valves in under an hour. I'm pretty darn certain the cam timing was fine- I took several pics during tear down and counted teeth and remarked (also used a tip from lt snyders book- using the Ts). The ticking did increase as I revved the engine- coupled with some tight clearances and good advice from Evan at Ducati tool rental, I decided to recheck all my work. Vertical cylinder- no issues.

I have step by step photos and will do up a synopsis when I complete the service (everything from valves to new brake pads ad nearly everything in between). The adjustment and the process is not as daunting once you get in there- starting is the hard part. Any good insights or tips please post them up.

Thanks

Flynn- cams look fine (no pitting/wear marks). Shooting for .005 mm closers. The belts do move the cams during install and tightening- adjust as necessary.
 

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Be careful, I had a similar ticking sound before my engine exploded.
 

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I dont want to confuse the situation,I've not had the pleasure of checking/adjusting my valvetrain,I recently did my belts and noticed the T's on both cyl's roughly bang on upside down facing rocker i.e. flat piece of T parallel with rocker......my desmotimes manual arrived after this job and I noticed the manual states different.....genuine cd manual(which I'm starting to dislike,feels incomplete I bought of eBay) says to use a locking tool which I understand to fit into these "T's" but if desmo's marks are correct then I can't see this tool fitting,only my two cents cause I wouldn't argue against the Desmotimes manual as it appears to be very good,I'd need to strip it again to back this up but I'm fairly sure I'm correct
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The castle nut makes things a whole lot easier, allows you to rotate the intake cam to its correct position before putting in your locking tool. My advice take pictures, and use multiple lining up points. The belts rotate when you add the eccentric and when you tension- so account for it behore hand. With pictures you can count teeth- to get it lined up. I used the harmonic tension tool- then rotate the engines several times to ensure your marks line up.

I almost want to run without belt covers-- thoughts?
 

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The look of open covers really is great - I had it on my Monster - throw a rock in there, then make your final decision. (Rizoma)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
And....

So I buttoned it back up, completely re-did and re-measured everything. Tightened the belts and replaced/filled radiator, fuel tank, and seat- pulled it off the stands and turn the key...I was like if this works I diagnosed my problem and fixed- if not, BOOM!

It turned over on the second revolution, and runs like a top. Pulls real hard, no ticking or valve clatter. It actually feels tuned up...

I've been reading this forum daily for two years- I don't post bc I've been able to find my answers using the google search function- this site has a metric f-ton of info you just need to know how to find it.

I'll post up my notes and pics in the next few days- with the most important being my lessons learned so you don't make the same mistakes when you tackle it yourself.

Thanks for the help and tips...
 
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