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Discussion Starter #1
I was bleeding the clutch and accidently let the fluid down to low and the Reservoir sucked in air...I've been trying to bleed it for an hour now but still no pressure at all. Please help! :(

Thanks,
Kevin
 

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Pump fluid it in from the slave bleeder. Use a syringe with a piece of hose that can attach to the bleeder.

t_bare
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is what ive been doing:

-Hose connected to nipple on the slave cylinder going to bottle.
-Pump clutch lever a few times, hold it down.
-unlock slave cylinder nipple nut, close nut.
-Repeat.

I've been doing this for an hour now, but still no pressure :(
 

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Fill a syringe with brake fluid and force it into the bleed nipple (while open). From the bottom up, reverse bleeding.


Or pump the lever really fast with a full reservoir until it primes, then bleed normally.

The first one works best.
t_bare
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pump fluid it in from the slave bleeder. Use a syringe with a piece of hose that can attach to the bleeder.

t_bare
can you explain pumping it from the slave bleeder? are you referring to the nipple on top of the slave cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Fill a syringe with brake fluid and force it into the bleed nipple (while open). From the bottom up, reverse bleeding.


Or pump the lever really fast with a full reservoir until it primes, then bleed normally.

The first one works best.
t_bare
ill give that a try! thanks!
 

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can you explain pumping it from the slave bleeder? are you referring to the nipple on top of the slave cylinder?
Here's an easier way to force the air out of your line from the slave:


1. Remove the clutch slave from the left side of the engine.
2. Pull the clutch lever once or twice to push the cylinder in the slave out a bit (be careful not to pull so many times that you push the cylinder completely out of the housing)
3. Use a wood dowel or the blunt end of a screwdriver handle (or your fingers) to push the cylinder back into the slave unit.

As you push the slave cylinder back into the unit, it will flush the air bubbles back through into the reservoir. Be sure not to leave the reservoir cover off as you do this as the fluid could splash out and ruin any painted surface.

After you've tried the above, proceed with a normal bleed procedure at the master cylinder and the slave as well for good measure.

Hope this helps,
 

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Here's an easier way to force the air out of your line from the slave:


1. Remove the clutch slave from the left side of the engine.
2. Pull the clutch lever once or twice to push the cylinder in the slave out a bit (be careful not to pull so many times that you push the cylinder completely out of the housing)
3. Use a wood dowel or the blunt end of a screwdriver handle (or your fingers) to push the cylinder back into the slave unit.

As you push the slave cylinder back into the unit, it will flush the air bubbles back through into the reservoir. Be sure not to leave the reservoir cover off as you do this as the fluid could splash out and ruin any painted surface.

After you've tried the above, proceed with a normal bleed procedure at the master cylinder and the slave as well for good measure.

Hope this helps,
That is how I did it. Be careful to remember which way the copper crush washer goes when you take off the slave. If not replacing it in any case...

Vatozone has a kit of sample sizes for close to 3 bucks, replaced everything on my bike with it. :thup:
 

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Bleed the master. It's at the highest point in the system, where the air bubbles want to go. Most people only bleed the slave.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for all the help guys! I got it to work again :)
I gotta bookmark this thread for future references.
 

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I'll be trying the injection method for my rear brakes. It sounds much better and ALOT easier. Since changing the fluid they have been spongy. I've bleed several times with the normal method(using the pedal not a suction bleeder) and the pedal is still softer than before. It sounds much better and ALOT easier.

Random question for the knowledge bank...Is there supposed to be a bleeder screw at the rear brake master cylinder on the 848?
 

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I'll be trying the injection method for my rear brakes. It sounds much better and ALOT easier. Since changing the fluid they have been spongy. I've bleed several times with the normal method(using the pedal not a suction bleeder) and the pedal is still softer than before. It sounds much better and ALOT easier.

Random question for the knowledge bank...Is there supposed to be a bleeder screw at the rear brake master cylinder on the 848?
It would be NICE if there were one... but there ain't SUPPOSED to be...

when bleeding you can just crack the banjo bolt with a closed end wrench to accomplish the same thing... but be sure to put a towel around it to keep that corrosive fluid off of anything important....
 
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