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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought a new clutch slave cylinder from MPL in Germany... a nicely made piece at a great price and it's red to match my ride. So I install it, bleed it and go for a ride. Into gear, let out the clutch, give it some gas and.....nothing. Clutch slips like crazy and the bike just revs and doesn't move. Remove, check out, find no problems, reinstall and get the same result. So I then reinstalled the stock cylinder as I was leaving the next morning for a few days riding in North Carolina and I was panicked about having a non-functional Duc. Stock cylinder works just fine, just as it had before I removed it. When I returned from N.C. I contacted MPL and they say add another 2mm plain clutch plate to make the clutch pack thicker and that will fix the problem. I am annoyed. First off where do I get just ONE plain clutch plate? Second why does the stock cylinder work fine with the current clutch pack if it's too thin as MPL is telling me? Third has anyone ever had a problem with an after market cylinder causing the clutch to slip? The bright side is the bike ran great in N.C. and the roads are just as fantastic as they were the last time I was there. The less bright side is I am now back in Chicago where the roads are.....less amusing. Oh, and I have a red slave cylinder that doesn't function.
 

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Return the defective product and order from JCPAKBIKES.COM. Problem solved. Shouldn't have to jump through hoops for a simple clutch mod. Good luck.
 

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I have the Oberon 29mm. They are about $150.00 and are very high quality. There reputation is great and you can pick them up at most cycle shops. Edit - I bought mine at MotoWheels as below ;)

I also fully endorse JCPakBikes, so give him a shout. JC will only sell you items he stands behind. I'm sure anything he has will be top quality.

Be careful of anything beyond 30mm. As they get larger it can become increasingly hard to find neutral as the slave piston moves less with the same amount of lever travel.
 
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The Aella Tapered Slaves are pretty and very nice

They inner workings are Kashima Coated for long life and looks are unique from other Slaves. The Ball bearing inside makes for smoother engagement.
The Clutch fluid does not seem to ever get dirty...at least it doesn't on mine

Cost is a little pricey but they are really well made
Around $375 at todays exchange rate
 

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It sounds like they don't know what the hell they're talking about. How is adding a clutch plate going to help. It's just going to possibly hide the problem and give you a less noticeable problem.

You can take the slave off the bike and the clutch gear will be permanently engaged. That's what you want when you remove your hand from the lever. You want ZERO force throwing out the clutch when your hand is off the clutch. when your hand is off the clutch you want the full clutch spring force compressing the pressure plates.

If anything the clutch throw-out rod is too long for that slave.

older Ducs had a different length throw out rod. many aftermarket slaves come with a little barrel that can be put inside the slave to make up for this difference so you can use it on a modern or old duc. I think it's about 7-10mm long and the same diameter as the throw out rod. Check inside your new slave. i wouldn't be surprised to find one of these in there. If so, take it out and throw it away and you're problem will be solved.
 

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or, the slave is defective. You can pull it apart and verify the the bore is clear and the piston moves freely to the base of the bore. If it is defective, the issue is probably there. But i'd just return it.

Good lock.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies. I did email the supplier and asked to return it. I will see what happens although it will be a PITA to send back to Germany. I did of course check that the extra piston for the short push rod was NOT installed and everything else was as it should be and found no problems. This particular cylinder just needs an even shorter push rod or better engineering or the bore drilled 2mm further into the cylinder.
 

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Glad to hear your sending that item back. It's not the first time I've heard of this nonsense with poorly designed slaves. Modifying the clutch stack to correct an incorrectly designed slave is out of the question, I can't imagine why a manufacture would ask you to do that. It's like you go to the shop for a car battery and they say no problem, but you'll need to change your motor (exaggerating). Modifying the pushrod is also out of the question as it eliminates the possibility of changing back to something correctly designed later.

You won't be disappointed by either the units JC and MW displayed above.
 

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+1 for Aella

Put one on our GT and it significantly eased clutch pull and actually seemed to expand the "friction zone" which is quite nice (i.e. still easy to find neutral).
 

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+1 for Aella

Put one on our GT and it significantly eased clutch pull and actually seemed to expand the "friction zone" which is quite nice (i.e. still easy to find neutral).
Better late than never - here are some pics (note new Ohlins forks have been installed as well and they are "magic" :D)
 

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