[RobH]

So, I'm planning on replacing the clutch this weekend, that is plates, basket and hub. I figured I'd replace the hub since everything was going to be dismantled.
I've gone for Newfren alloy plates and alloy basket. I wanted oem but didn't want to spend that much and the Newfren combo provided the best fit for me.
I've read lots of info on stack height etc so if anyone can share any gems on the SFS particularly I'd love to hear them.

 

[CHIEFBATLAX]

Nothing much of gems. Impact gun and a special tool to hold the basket in place from spinning.


Ducati Clutch Basket+Clutch+Bolt Streetfighter 1098 1098S 1198 S 1098 R HDESA | eBay



Clutch Replacement

 

[RobH]

Thanks Chief, I hadn't seen the Ducati Tool Rental tutorial so all information is good.

I have the clutch holding tool although I'll be relying on Mr Muscle and a breaker bar to shift the clutch nut. Hopefully he's up to it.

 

[CHIEFBATLAX]

i thought my clutch plates were bad because it felt like the clutch was slipping. after i put in the new plates in i realized it was my obrien slave cylinder. After i put the stock slave cylinder back in it works fine and haven't went back nor returned it. its like $40 shipping both ways.

Also the plates will come in the correct order so don't mix them up.

 

[flynbulldog]

I just have to wonder how long that aluminum basket will last. I wouldn't want to buy a new one every 7000 miles...

 

[RobH]

I just have to wonder how long that aluminum basket will last. I wouldn't want to buy a new one every 7000 miles...

It's a fair point Flyn & I'm not keen on replacing things too often either but this bike is a trailer queen so 7000 miles will take me around 2 years I reckon :|

 

[RobH]

i thought my clutch plates were bad because it felt like the clutch was slipping. after i put in the new plates in i realized it was my obrien slave cylinder. After i put the stock slave cylinder back in it works fine and haven't went back nor returned it. its like $40 shipping both ways.

Also the plates will come in the correct order so don't mix them up.

That's exactly the symptoms that I'm experiencing, however, it hasn't always been that way, hence my plan of action. However I'm not entirely convinced it's the plates either but I'm just eliminating the potential issues.

Unfortunately I don't have the original slave as the Oberon item was on the bike when I bought it.

 

[blackie]

EVR Slipper. Best ever

 

[RobH]

I did consider a slipper Blackie but I couldn't justify the cost for street riding. Maybe in the future.

 

[RobH]

This is the ultimate goal. Very cool

 

[blackie]

You need to stack them correctly with the curved plates placed in a certain order. I did a how to with the slipper so it must be on here somewhere.
Also if you get slipping due to slight wear just try a thicker plate/plates. Don't go mad as it doesn't need too much or as I found out when it gets warm it will expand and totally stop you changing gear and you will have to try to get home by stalling and starting it in gear. A harsh lesson let me tell you

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[blackie]

I just have to wonder how long that aluminum basket will last. I wouldn't want to buy a new one every 7000 miles...

Flyn. My 48t evr basket is still good after 10000 miles

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[duc96cr]

Stick to alloy plates if you have an alloy basket. Steel plates will eat an alloy basket, especially if you ride hard. A 48 t setup won't get near as hammered, but can be a little more prone to drag as the plates don't move as freely.

 

[RobH]

Thanks to all for their input, the job went pretty smoothly. I couldn't budge the 32mm centre nut, that was supposedly 25mm according to the torques specs that I have, so had to invest in an impact gun which freed it up easily.
The old stack friction plates were still within spec for thickness but the tabs were burred so I changed them all out, plus the steel plates were pretty scored.
The new stack was a little bit shorter than the old stack around 40mm versus 41.5mm but the clutch operation was smooth right off the bat.
I'll keep the old plates in case I need any adjustment down the track.

 

[bbradsby]

EVR Slipper. Best ever

Guys, on this subject.. my 2011 1198 came to me used, with the EVR pressure plate (non-slipper) shown in the pix and with 16,000 miles on her. she's now got 19k+ and the clutch slips when hard on the throttle in 5th or 6th above 6000 rpm or so. Ive bled out the hydraulics, so I believe the clutch is toasted. Would you concur that the entire pack should be replaced? Basket as well? And whose non-OEM clutch pack & basket would you recommend?

Thanks much,

 

[blackie]

If it's only slipping on throttle I'd have a look at getting a couple of thicker plates in the basket. I don't think it will be shot just needs packing out

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[RobH]

Same thing as happened to me, slipping under load and very grabby.
There is a lengthy thread on here about using lithium grease on used plates so that might be worth a try.
Disassemble and check the stack height, tab gap etc & see if you can pinpoint the issue.

 

[blackie]

And give the plates a rub with light grade wet and dry. Get the crap off them
A lot of snatching is either dust or if it's an open then a build up of rust from washing and it not drying out the basket and plates

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[bbradsby]

thanks guys, will have a look at the items mentioned. the feel at the lever is not grabbier than pretty much all my Ducs before this one. It just lets loose at high rpm, in 5th or 6th, with throttle WFO.

 

[blackie]

Will just be a thicker plate mate. You can even put 2 thin ones side by side if you haven't a thick one

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