Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A few months ago clutch started making a pretty nasty screech at every stop light. Following the advice in this thread, I took apart the clutch and cleaned up the plates. Bike was at 8500 miles, now about 12k the noise is back, even worse. Took another look at the basket and the ears are notched enough to form ridges, so figure it's time to replace basket + clutch plates. MY08 with Bucci slipper clutch.

Was thinking of going with this combo from Nichols and Barnett:



and a new set of TPO springs:



Do I need to also buy the hub tool or can I borrow one or just wing it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,070 Posts
the nichols clutch basket is top quality. they have a used basket sent in from a customer that has 85,000 miles on it ... still looks pretty fresh, and has no wear on the fingers from the clutch plates. solid part for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,846 Posts
I personally would go with a Barnett clutch basket, they have stainless steel "covers" that go over the clutch basket tabs, which prevents the basket from getting dented up, so far for me its the only basket to hold up. Aloha Alex
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #4

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,846 Posts
A broken spider spring is a common problem, no big deal to replace it, just put a small dab of high temp grease on the contact fingers. Aloha Alex
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Did the clutch swap this weekend. Used the local facilities at Moto Shop SF since I don't have a lift, breaker bar, or impact wrench. I highly recommend them: Moto Shop - Learn. Fix. Ride.

Some other helpful resources I used:
-Bucci assembly instructions: Bucci Slipper Clutch
-ECS slipper clutch install: ECS Slipper Clutch Install on Vimeo

Now the pics.

Before swap:



Slipper clutch pulled out:



Disassembly of slipper and cleaning:



Reassembly of clutch parts - I used grease to hold the slipper ball bearings in the ramps as everything came together:

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Greased spider spring and clutch ready for install:



Basket pulled:



Basket ears were notched:



Barnett basked installed:



Clutch installed:



Plates loaded and ready to tighten the nut:



Pressure plate and new springs and caps installed:



A few tips and notes that weren't mentioned in the various instructions online.
+ keep the clutch plates inside the drum when removing or tightening the drum nut. Otherwise the clutch can twist as you torque the nut. As expected, getting the nut off of the hub was quite an effort. Much easier to put back on.
+ the washer/nut stack (the number and order of washers and retainers underneath the drum nut) varies from slipper to slipper. Check your own slipper parts diagram before going on a wild goose chase for lost (or not lost) washers!
+ get a clutch holder part that fits your basket ears. For the basket that came with my Bucci slipper, the ears were retained by a steel ring which prevented a good grip with the plastic clutch holder I used.

No more clutch groaning noise but with the Barnett basket, hardly any noise at all! I liked the tambourine noise and hope that it will come back with some wear of the clutch plates. :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
Sweet write up. Too bad we couldn't talk more or go for a ride :/

I wish there was a Moto Shop or similar place around in Orange County.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
Nice pics and write up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
Do u remember what order u put plates back in ?
I just downloaded service manual so figured out stack order was wondering if u stack them any different using slipper ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
thanks..
tried every order i can come up with the stack no luck..
Now when in first wont engage at all..when i let out clutch and give gas goes no where are if i put in first i can roll bike around freely pretty much with no residence .. not good...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
My clutch gave up the ghost yesterday with only 3000 miles on it - this was a barnett 306-25-40004. Fine one moment, slipping like crazy the next. After a few miles, no friction whatsoever.

Stack height was down to 34.5-35.1 mm, down from 36.5 at install. Basket is fine, springs are 41.5 mm.

I'm going to get the OEM pack tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
169 Posts
dam thats the pack im waiting to get dropped off by UPS..
try adding a extra steel plate to bring it back to good stack height maybe ? when i call barnett and asked about pack they said comes with 18 plates total should be able to restack to get ideal height ?
Does clutch lever still have good pressure ? Only asking cause i just had to deal with a tiny air bubble that was killing my pressure on clutch lever so wouldnt push plate out had to bleed everything..
Everything ive been reading says this clutch pack is an upgrade from stock..
Do the plates look glazed at ? are they super dirty already ? hows the basket holding up ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The Barnett basket is fine and in perfect shape. This has the steel inserts so no problems with the ears being notched. I'll try to snap some pics of what the plates looked like. The frictions weren't that ugly after being sprayed with brake cleaner, but all of the steels were turned blue from high temps.

I could put in an extra steel to get the bike rolling again, but I think I'll just go ahead and get the OEM clutch.

There are two numbers that match the MY08 1100s - anyone know the difference?

190.2.011.1A $284.10
190.2.018.1A $359.57
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
The Barnett basket is fine and in perfect shape. This has the steel inserts so no problems with the ears being notched. I'll try to snap some pics of what the plates looked like. The frictions weren't that ugly after being sprayed with brake cleaner, but all of the steels were turned blue from high temps.

I could put in an extra steel to get the bike rolling again, but I think I'll just go ahead and get the OEM clutch.

There are two numbers that match the MY08 1100s - anyone know the difference?

190.2.011.1A $284.10
190.2.018.1A $359.57
Okay, answered my own question.

190.2.011.1A - 7 thick Al plates + steels
190.2.018.1A - 8 thin Al plates + steels
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
So I bought P/N 190.2.018.1A (19020181a) the 1098s clutch pack - 8 Al friction plates + 10 steels. The steel plate thickness of 1.3-1.4 mm is not as indicated in the DP slipper clutch instructions where it says 2 mm. So, people not knowing this may encounter problems when trying to build their slipper clutch.

Each friction plate is approx 2.8-3.0 mm



Each steel is approx 1.3-1.4 mm



The convex plate is also 1.3 mm but there is no dot, it is marked with a 'D' which must face down (towards the engine).



Using 8 friction plates + 8 steels gets a reasonable thickness



When all packed in the clearance between pressure plate and stack is about 1 mm



Mathematically, it is not possible to use the 7 plates kit (190.2.011.1A) and reach 36.5 mm unless I am missing something - 7 * 3 mm = 21 mm so you need to make up 15.5 mm with plates that are only 1.3-1.4 mm (nominally 1.5 mm) thick. There are no 2 mm plates in either pack!

My pack used 8 * 3 mm + 8 * 1.5 mm ~ 36.7 mm. As a result, there is slight contact between the plates with clutch pulled in, and the drivetrain. I have the EVR clutch slave and may go back to the OEM slave to get the extra plate separation.
 

Attachments

1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top