Ducati.ms - The Ultimate Ducati Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
669 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When i go riding on my 748 for long periods, it seems like after a while its a real bitch to get it going from a dead stop. I let the clutch out like normal with the usual ammount of gas but it sputters like its going to die then it picks up. It works fine after im moving though and like i said, this only happens when im riding it for a while, short trips are no problem.

Is this something serious i should be worried about?

Also im coming up on my 6k service, do they look at the clutch?

Sorry if this is a n00b question
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
Im not certain but.... I dont think you problem is the clutch. If it were the clutch the motor would rev but the bike wouldnt go. you said your bike has a motor bogging issues. My guess is that it is an electrical issue that is not allowing your bike to fire properly. It just a guess though It could be alot of other thing like fuel problems or even timing issues
Hope this helps
 

· Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
DrGonzo said:
When i go riding on my 748 for long periods, it seems like after a while its a real bitch to get it going from a dead stop. I let the clutch out like normal with the usual ammount of gas but it sputters like its going to die then it picks up. It works fine after im moving though and like i said, this only happens when im riding it for a while, short trips are no problem.

Is this something serious i should be worried about?

Also im coming up on my 6k service, do they look at the clutch?

Sorry if this is a n00b question
Sounds like when your engine is hot, your clutch is partially engaging when the lever is at rest position!

Have you recently adjusted your lever or replaced your lever with a new after market one?

-Fariborz
 

· Registered
Joined
·
669 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fariborz said:
Sounds like when your engine is hot, your clutch is partially engaging when the lever is at rest position!

Have you recently adjusted your lever or replaced your lever with a new after market one?

-Fariborz

nah i havent touched anything with my clutch or my levers.

It doesnt feel like the clutch is engaging when im at rest though, i dont feel any engine pull.

BTW my bike has about 5400 miles on it, as far as i know, the clutch has never been replaced
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
Unless its been abused you should get more than 5400 miles out of the clutch. Mine just went out on my 996 at 15500.
If the clutch wasnt disengaging it would pull at a stop. I.E. If your sitting a stoplight in 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled in...... the bike would pull.
If the clutch was not fully engaging with the lever out the motor would spin up but the bike wouldnt go. I.E. You leave a stoplight in 1st gear... If the clutch didnt fully disengage the motor would rev up but the power wouldnt be transferred to the rear transmission. This is clutch slip it would be like riding around with you clutch lever pulled 1/2 way in.

This doesnt sound anything like the problem you described originally.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
311 Posts
DrGonzo said:
nah i havent touched anything with my clutch or my levers.

It doesnt feel like the clutch is engaging when im at rest though, i dont feel any engine pull.

BTW my bike has about 5400 miles on it, as far as i know, the clutch has never been replaced

If you have not touched the levers, you should check your pushrod and the throw-out bearing on the pressure plate. You might have a damaged pushrod and/or seized throw-out bearing. The pushrod goes from the slave cylinder through the case to the pressure-plate on the opposite side. The throw-out bearing resides in the pressure-plate.

You can remove the pushrod by first removing the clutch cover and then loosen the six bolts that hold the clutch springs. Remove the pressure-plate. There is a pin at the end of the pushrod that holds the pushrod in the throw-out bearing of the pressure-plate. If that is stuck, when you remove the pressure-plate, the pushrod comes off with the pressure-plate. If the pin is not stuck after you remove the pressure-plate, you can then pull the pushrod out.

If the pushrod is damaged or broken it might not come out easily. DO NOT FORCE IT. If it does not come out easily, remove your slave cylinder and try to pull it out from the other side.

If the pushrod is not broken, take it out and put it on a VERY flat surface. Roll it and see if it wobbles. If it wobbles, the pushrod is bent.

You should also see two small O'rings on the pushrod. These o'rings prevent the oil from leaking to the basket or the slave. If they are missing or broken, replace them. Also make sure they are not stuck in the passageway between the the slave cylinder to your drum. Some times broken o'rings can get stuck in the passageway preventing the pushrod to move freely.

Also check the throw-out bearing on the pressure-plate. It should spin freely. Some times the bearing can seize and when that happens, a lot of strange things can happen that are hard to explain.

When putting the parts back together, put the o'ring on the grooves of the pushrod first, lube the pushrod with some engine oil before passing it through the passageway or you will damage the o'rings. It is bettet if you put the pushrod from the slave side. The o'rings will have less distance to travel that way. Also put some antiseize lube on the end of the pushrod where the pin that goes into the pressure-plate is located.

When putting the pressure-plate back on the clutch plate stack, line up the two-arrows on the pressure-plate with one of the drum posts that has a groove on it. Failure to do so will cause the pressure plate not to press against the plates and ride on the drum grooves causing the clutch not to work and potentially damaging some parts. When you tighten the clutch spring retaining screws, be VERY careful. They only take 5 Nm. They can snap if you put too much torque on those bolts. Use a handle similar to a screw driver with proper bit that fits the Allen head of those bolts. It will be very hard to over torque them using a scre driver type tool. A ratched wrench can easily apply too much torque and break those bolts. BTW, because of the direction of rotation of the clutch drum, those bolts will hardly ever get loose and only want to tighten when the engine is running.

Try the above, it that does not solve your problem, post another message and we will go from there.

-Fariborz
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top