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The hard-to-find-neutral thing is very likely an air-in-line issue. With that mileage I'm pretty sure the clutch pack is ok. Get stainless springs, sand/paint the outer ring, and most importantly, bleed the clutch. You may want to change the clutch slave before doing so - makes the pull ssooo much easier....

I noticed that the pushrod never came out when you pulled the pressure plate - on mine, the pushrod always comes out with the removal - I like your way better as it doesn't strain the o-rings on the slave end...
 

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Discussion Starter #22
The hard-to-find-neutral thing is very likely an air-in-line issue. With that mileage I'm pretty sure the clutch pack is ok. Get stainless springs, sand/paint the outer ring, and most importantly, bleed the clutch. You may want to change the clutch slave before doing so - makes the pull ssooo much easier....



I noticed that the pushrod never came out when you pulled the pressure plate - on mine, the pushrod always comes out with the removal - I like your way better as it doesn't strain the o-rings on the slave end...


So I put everything back together today with new clutch springs and bought an Oberon clutch slave to make the pull a little easier. I bled the clutch line this:
Pumped the clutch about 6-8 times until it felt stiff. And held it. Cracked the bleeder nipple to let air out. Did this a number of times. When I started the bike, and pulled in the clutch, I could tell nothing was happening. The lever is stiff. This is as far back as it comes:


What did I do wrong?


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Discussion Starter #23
When I went to install the Oberon it wouldn’t sit flush against the case unless I removed this little plastic piece.


The instructions said that an extension was included but was only needed on pre-2000 Ducatis so I did not install it.


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Discussion Starter #24
I’m assuming this is the extension they are referring to:



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Discussion Starter #25
I tried reinstalling the old clutch slave but I could not get any feeling in the clutch. There’s nothing there no matter how many times I bleed it.

I put a new pressure plate on too. Would that have anything to do with this?

Also, the clutch rod was inserted all the way in to where it stops on the tanga. I’m assuming this is right? I’m not exactly familiar how the cluych on a motorcycle works. I thought that when you pulled in the clutch, the clutch fluid pushed against a piston which pushed against the rod. But here the rod can’t go any further because the two metal tangs are stopping it. Sorry if this a dumb question.


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Discussion Starter #26


These are the tangs I was taking about. Should I be able to just pull this out? Because I can


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if the pin (tangs) is hitting the case something is wrong on the other end.

the lever being hard means the piston has stopped moving with a std slave, but can the piston come out on an oberon? forget now. i assume the stopping is the pin in this case.

did you line the pressure plate up correctly? it only goes in one position of the 6 possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
This is the new pressure plate I installed. I notice that it does not fit as snug on the clutch rod as the gold Rizoma one I took off. Is there supposed to be a bushing or something?



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Discussion Starter #29
It almost feels like the new pressure plate does not push the clutch rod back towards the slave cylinder which is why it appeared bottomed out against the tangs when I was putting on the Oberon


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It sounds like there's something binding. As already mentioned. Check to make sure you have the pressure plate aligned with the proper clutch stud. The pressure plate should have a dot on one of the holes. That mark should go on the clutch stud that's also marked. If you don't have the dots connected you will have clutch binding and lack of movement.


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A socket that fits the outer diameter of the bearing/bushing and a hand press. Or tap it out carefully with a hammer and a socket.


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Discussion Starter #34
Ok thanks. Going to tackle that this morning and report back.


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Discussion Starter #35
So that did not go well at all. At first, I did not realize I could remove the bushing while leaving the bearing intact. Ugh. Here’s what I did:
1. Removed bearing from new (red) pressure plate. That bearing came out fine.
2. Removed bearing from old pressure plate, but that bearing got damaged.
3. Figured out how to remove bushing from bearing. That went fine.
4. Reinstalled bearing back in new pressure plate.
5. Installed bushing in that bearing. Unfortunately, when I did that I damaged the little ‘grate’ on the front of the bearing. I think that is purely decorational, but it definitely got damaged.
6. Reinstalled the new pressure plate, ensuring I lined up the dot with the correct stud.
7. Bled the slave cylinder over and over and over...you get the point.
8. The clutch lever does not get stuck like before, but it is still not pulling in the clutch. When I start the bike up and pull in clutch, it only makes the slightest change in the noise and I cannot put bike in gear.

What should I check now?


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Discussion Starter #36


Here’s the damage I did to pressure plate when I was installing the bushing.


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What's on the end of your push rod, pressure plate side, there should be cap that fits on the push rod and sits in the center of the bearing. I'm right in Lafayette if want me to take a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Hey mojo
Maybe we can take a look later in the week. I’m heading out for the evening but it would be really great to get help from someone that’s done this before.

Frank


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If you still have the OEM parts, reinstall the stock pressure plate and bearing with pushrod control pin (sits in the center of the bearing) to better isolate the issue.

Adjust your clutch handlebar lever all the way out to ensure a full stroke during troubleshooting, later you can fine tune.

Bleed the slave at the banjo bolt (below the bleed nipple). Cover the area with plenty of rags as fluid will spray each time you crack the banjo. Air does get stuck in there.

Have you removed the entire plate stack to check for rust, wear, and stack height? Even with low mileage, you may need a new stack depending on how it was used.

With the bike on the side stand (ignition off) and the clutch lever fully pulled in, grab ahold of the clutch springs and see if you can spin the assembly. You should be able to spin it without much force. If you cannot budge it, continue to adjust your clutch handlebar lever outwards (if you haven’t already done so) until you get movement.

Get the rear wheel up on a rear stand and check for full engagement/disengagement of the clutch with the bike on. In 1st gear after fully pulling in the clutch lever, the rear wheel should come to a complete stop (you can depress the rear brake or wait several seconds). If the rear wheel continues to spin then it is dragging as the clutch is not fully disengaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I removed the entire clutch stack today but there was no rust. I reinstalled it and then tried bleeding from the banjo bolt. I got a tiny bit of lever but not much. With the bone running, I pulled in the clutch and the pressure plate compressed the springs ever so slightly. It occurred to me that it looks like the pushrod needs to sit back (towards slave cylinder). It’s as if it is protruding to fat in the pressure plate. So I get this genius idea that maybe I’m supposed to use that little extension that comes with the Oberon. WRONG. And once you put that in the clutch slave, it won’t come out (even though their paperwork says to rap it in a piece of wood. That didn’t work).

Anyway, I started to wonder if maybe when I put the throw out bearing in the pressure plate, did I seat it too deep. It doesn’t seem like that should be possible because the little black clotted co we that goes over the bearing would be loose if I didn’t sink the bearing into the pressure plate all the way.

Any ideas?


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