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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally got a chance to take my 2012 SFS out for a ride and ran into two separate issues. First I noticed that the clutch seems harder to pull and that the lever comes all the way back to the clip-on. I tried adjusting it (at the lever) but it really didn’t improve. I rode the bike for about 80 miles today, but that didn’t change anything, except that it is basically impossible to find neutral wile at a stop light. The fluid level is fine. I did notice that the clutch springs are all rusty. I want to change these anyway but could that be an issue. Bike has about 4500 miles on it, if that’s important to know. Here’s a pic of clutch


The other issue is that the bolt and washer that holds the exhaust (Termi) to the rear passenger peg bracket must’ve rattled loose and fell off. Is this part still available from Ducati and do I need a part no.? It was so much easier when Trebour Motorcycles was around because I only lived 10 min away and could just go there to ask these dumb questions.


Thanks
Frank


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The exhaust bolt rubber washers and the insert are all available from Ducati when you switch to the termigs they just use the OEM mounting hardware. As for the clutch, nasty certainly a good example of why not to run an open cover of the bike is going to be in the wet, I would rebuild that new springs new steel plates possibly if they look as bad as the outside one and see how the fiber disks look. It may also just need a good bleed to make the lever feel better but would service the clutch either way and if you intend to ride in the rain put an oem cover back on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok thanks. I’ve never taken a motorcycle clutch apart before. Is it pretty straightforward once you get the springs out?


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As already said. Your clutch has been exposed to weather and is very dirty and rusty. The dirt and rust is probably causing drag and making it more difficult to find neutral. Bleed the clutch and clean or replace the rusted plates if they won't clean up or are out of spec for thickness. Your clutch lever should always be able to be pulled in all the way to the handlebar. If it won't there's something wrong.


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Ok thanks. I’ve never taken a motorcycle clutch apart before. Is it pretty straightforward once you get the springs out?


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Pretty straightforward take out the bolts holding the springs, when pressure plate will slide off then it is alternating smooth steel plates with fiber plates, just keep track of order you take it off and put it back on in reverse replacing steal plates that look bad and you can measure fiber plates for wear or just buy a clutch kit and replace them all.
 

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I'm in Lafayette and have springs and stuff around, let me know if need any help. Also a Trebour refugee.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks mojo dog!
I’m about to start picking up parts. Are there any specific clutch packs that are better than others? What about springs and keepers?


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Discussion Starter #9
I pulled the keepers, the springs and that ‘star’ that the springs hold in place (not sure what it’s called). The first steel plate had rust so I cleaned that up. The second steel plate had no rust. Do you think I need to replace these or is the clean-up adequate? I will replace the springs. I’m guessing I can reuse the keepers since they have no rust on them.

Any thoughts?



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At 4500 miles your friction discs are probably fine. Mine did not go out of spec until about 15000 miles, but everybody gets different mileage out of these clutches. If you have a pair of calipers, the minimum thickness of the friction discs is 2.8mm. The steel plates will be fine as long as there is no rust. You will probably want to remove all of them to make sure no piece of dirt or grit has worked it's way back. Take special care when you remove them and keep them in the same order/direction. There is one steel disc at the back that is very slightly convex, but it's difficult to tell. That convex disc should not be installed backwards - could lead to issues with clutch engagement later on. A dentist's pick or mini screwdriver is needed to pick the plates out. Water tends to pool in the back of the clutch if exposed to rain/etc. You will want to check that. The rusty springs could be your culprit on the difficult neutral situation. If you replace them and it's the same, then either the pushrod is binding somehow or the clutch just needs a good bleed/service. I assume the latter has never been done on the bike since it has such low mileage, but after 7 years it would be a good idea to get fresh fluid in there.

The clutch is pretty straight-forward. Just don't get grease on the friction discs or steel plates and make sure everything goes back the way it came out.
 

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rusty springs won't make 3/8 of fuck all difference to the dragging.

first i would paint the outside of the outer steel plate so it doesn't look shit. beadblast that and the springs and shoot them with a coat of paint in a preferred colour.

it's certainly worth doing the fluid. bleed at the slave and the master, and pump the lever between openings of the slave bleeder then hold to try to flush fluid out of the slave.

then go around the other side and pull the lever in and see what happens at the clutch. if the assembly moves with the lever travel, the hydraulics are probably ok. if it lags, it's probably a hydraulic issue.

if the spring caps move with the lever, there's excessive freeplay in the hub - loose nut, wear at the front of the hub from the big star washer (unlikely with that few km).

if the spring caps don't move, or very minimally, and the pressure plate is moving well off the pack, then you'll need to have a look at the pack itself. it's not uncommon for the flat steel plates to warp which can cause it to drag, but at those few miles you'd need to be a bit of a numpty to send it bad so quick. but saying that, i've certainly seen it before.

put the steel plates on a machined surface and check them all for warping - both sides. one will be cone shaped, and it makes no difference which way it goes in (or where).
 

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I like the TPO springs, they all had consistent length and are holding up nicely. Check the throw out bearing (pressure plate), it makes sense to replace it along with the o-rings on the push rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the feedback!

What kind of paint would you use on the steel clutch plate?

I did a Google search for TPO springs but came up blank. I found TPO retainers (Ti) and bolts (Ti) but no springs. Are KBike parts any good? I found a kit on Bellisimoto website.


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My thought replace the springs and the basket. I think maybe you can get away with the rusted clutch plate. That way you don't have to worry about painting.

Curious how did the plates get that rusty? Did the bike sit in moisture for a few years?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My thought replace the springs and the basket. I think maybe you can get away with the rusted clutch plate. That way you don't have to worry about painting.

Curious how did the plates get that rusty? Did the bike sit in moisture for a few years?

I’m guessing it got rusty from sitting in a barn-like storage unit for about a year and never being ridden. That’s only a guess but I was between houses for about 18 months and had bikes/cars stored in various places.




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Bleed is mandatory, it's part of BAU maintenance.

An alternative to painting is replacing. It might be worth quoting both options.

Lastly, it's rare but possible that the plate is warped since you're unable to fully engage the clutch. If the part is cheap I would just replace it instead of trying to salvage it.
 
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