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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, I am a bit of a noob to ducati's and have a quick question.
I bought my wife an 07 695, the clutch engagment on this bike is at the very end of the lever movement. This makes pulling out a bit more difficult than she or I am used to. I was wondering if there is a way to adjust this, or can an after market slave cylinder fix this?
If an after market slave cylinder is the fix what do you suggest?
Thank you for any info.
 

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By movement if you mean at the end of its travel when pulled in (fully engaged) then you need to bleed the clutch :)...air in the system:(
 

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Maybe just a lever adjustment, is there a screw at the point of entry into the clutch master cylinder.[on the lever] Try to bleed it first, then check adjustment if still a problem.
Search, clutch bleeding.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry should of been more specific. The clutch doesn't need bleeding. It is more of a letting the clutch out thing. As in the bike doesn't start to move until the very last milimeter of letting the clutch out!
Hopefully this makes a bit more sense. Again I appreciate any input.
 

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Clutch Engagement

I just recently bought a Monster 696 with the same clutch issue. The clutch doesn’t engage until the lever is almost fully released. I was told by the service department that being as it is a hydraulic clutch there is no adjustment, and it is not an issue with needing to be bled. If someone has any other suggestions I too would be interested.
That being said, I’m getting used to it and find that I can make shifts quicker by not having to pull the lever in very far.
 

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I just recently bought a Monster 696 with the same clutch issue. The clutch doesn’t engage until the lever is almost fully released. I was told by the service department that being as it is a hydraulic clutch there is no adjustment, and it is not an issue with needing to be bled. If someone has any other suggestions I too would be interested.
That being said, I’m getting used to it and find that I can make shifts quicker by not having to pull the lever in very far.
This is normal and correct.

If you want more travel, you can always use a larger slave cylinder, or a smaller master, but there is no adjustment.

Tom
 

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Similar case

Is the clutch slipping at all? In other words after you release the clutch and it catches at the end of its travel does the bike rev without moving much. Or better yet when you are moving, hit the gas. If the bike revs freely without gaining speed your clutch may be slipping. I know that the dealer told you that the clutch doesn't need to be bled but I had the same problems with my bike. The dealer did everything, change the slave cylinder, check the plates, even changed the line. The only thing that fixes the issue is bleeding the line. Takes five minutes and costs about $10. Do it yourself. I did mine last night in fact. Additionally when does your problem occur. After the bike is fully warmed up or straight away. My problem only happened after the bike warmed up in turn heating the hydraulic fluid in the line causing expansion of the water vapor in the line rendering the fluid useless. If your issue happens right away, then sorry but I don't have an answer. But my first guess would be to do what others are suggesting. Bleed the line carefully and slowly to make sure you don't have any air bubbles and you should be fine.
 

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In my case there is really no problem, it just engages way out. There no slippage all, clutch works fine. I also don’t think there is any air in the system. I also ride a trials bike which requires a very sensitive clutch so I know what clutch slippage or air in the line feels like. I think it’s just the nature of the beast.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There is no clutch slippage. Just hard to pull out in a hurry for someone with smaller hands. I was just hoping to find a way to the adjust this so the clutch releases more in middle of the lever travel.
 

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New to Ducati as well having just picked up a M1100. Have exactly the same issue. Stalled the bike 5 times in the first 30 mins before I worked out that the damn clutch engagement point is right at the end of the release and never stalled again after that.
 

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Don't they have an adjustment screw on the lever like a S4RS does? I know you can buy an aftermarket lever that has one.
 

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Don't they have an adjustment screw on the lever like a S4RS does? I know you can buy an aftermarket lever that has one.
The adjustment screw changes how far the lever is away from the bar. The engagement is still at the far end of the travel.
I was looking to adjust mine as well. On other bikes I have owned there was an adjustment to start the engagement closer to the bar.
 

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The adjustment screw changes how far the lever is away from the bar. The engagement is still at the far end of the travel.
I was looking to adjust mine as well. On other bikes I have owned there was an adjustment to start the engagement closer to the bar.
True, so if you had less travel it would be engaging half way out. Give it a try, what can it hurt.
 

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True, so if you had less travel it would be engaging half way out. Give it a try, what can it hurt.
I have already adjusted to the limit. The engagement is still at the end of the travel. Not half way out. I would like the engagement to start almost as soon as the lever leaves the bar.
 

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This is normal for a new Duc hydraulic clutch. When pulling in the clutch just pull it in far enough for it to disengage. Do not pull it in all the way to the bar. If you only pull it in a little you only have to let it out a little to engage it. Try it you will see how well it works. My 748 clutch engages about half way out and the Multi engages at the very end of the clutch travel. It makes it difficult to take off and change gears smoothly on the Multi because I ride the 748 most of the time. This little trick allows me to smoothly operate the Multi even though I am accustomed to the 748.
 

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This is normal for a new Duc hydraulic clutch. When pulling in the clutch just pull it in far enough for it to disengage. Do not pull it in all the way to the bar. If you only pull it in a little you only have to let it out a little to engage it. Try it you will see how well it works. My 748 clutch engages about half way out and the Multi engages at the very end of the clutch travel. It makes it difficult to take off and change gears smoothly on the Multi because I ride the 748 most of the time. This little trick allows me to smoothly operate the Multi even though I am accustomed to the 748.
This is what I have been working on and it does help. It's just hard to get used to.
 

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This is normal and correct.

If you want more travel, you can always use a larger slave cylinder, or a smaller master, but there is no adjustment.

Tom
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I've just been out for a blast on my wife's M695 and I must have looked like a right noob in town (I look unco-ordinated enough anyway!) - I just couldn't get used to the clutch feel. The APTC wet clutch actuates at the very end of the lever travel (as described by konaunit1 above)

If I fit a larger slave (say an Oberon 29.0mm) then I should have 22% less force to pull the clutch in (although this isn't the problem) with 41% longer lever pull (using Shazam's excellent table and subtracting the Ducati OEM 2000MY % from the Oberon %: http://www.ducati.ms/forums/attachm...utch-master-16x18-19x20-clutch-hydraulics.jpg ).

ie. If the clutch actuation is in the last 10 mm of lever travel, then it should then be in the last 14 mm of travel. Not a huge difference.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

neil.
 

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Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I've just been out for a blast on my wife's M695 and I must have looked like a right noob in town (I look unco-ordinated enough anyway!) - I just couldn't get used to the clutch feel. The APTC wet clutch actuates at the very end of the lever travel (as described by konaunit1 above)

If I fit a larger slave (say an Oberon 29.0mm) then I should have 22% less force to pull the clutch in (although this isn't the problem) with 41% longer lever pull (using Shazam's excellent table and subtracting the Ducati OEM 2000MY % from the Oberon %: http://www.ducati.ms/forums/attachm...utch-master-16x18-19x20-clutch-hydraulics.jpg ).

ie. If the clutch actuation is in the last 10 mm of lever travel, then it should then be in the last 14 mm of travel. Not a huge difference.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,neil.


Neil,

How many miles are on the bike? Reason I ask is because, as the clutch pack wears, the engagement point (on the lever) will move further forward to the point that clutch begins to slip.

And actually, you can adjust the clutch - sort of. The thicker the clutch pack the earlier the engagement (all other variables held constant). It is the opposite to what happens above.

Cheers,
Jerry
 

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Hi Jerry,

Thanks for the reply - that's an interesting idea. The bike has only about 4000 miles on it, so very little even though it's an 06 model.

If I understand you correctly a worn pack has a shorter travel than a new one, and conversely a newer clutch pack should have a longer travel. In which case I can't use that to help.

Maybe I'll order a larger dia slave cylinder and see if it helps. If it doesn't there's always eBay to recoup part of the outlay. Or I can try it on my 748.

Thanks,

neil.
 
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