[Kramer]

I'm in the process of swapping out the clutch.
I ended up getting a Pro Cutting basket and Barnett plates. Looks like a tight set-up.
Pulled things apart tonight. The stock basket looks pretty good and the friction material isn't TOO bad, but is on the edge of replacement. But the friction plate tangs are definitely beat to hell. That explains the awful "something is coming apart" noise. Not the beautiful music it should be playing.
Hard to believe that I had such a hard time finding the torque values. So here they are with an easy to search title.

Clutch Hub nut (the big one) - 190 N-m or 140 ft-lb.
Basket bolts (8) - 35 N-m or 26 ft-lb.
Spring retainer bolts - 5 N-m or 4 ft.lbs (not very much)

I'm awaiting a clutch tool but will most likely build one out of one of the old steel plates so I can finish up in the morning. (I'm not very patient.)

18700 miles on the clock.

 

[Gearbox]

I am very keen to hear how you get on with this combination as it is the configuration I am considering when/if ever my OEM clutch wears out.
I had imagined the original to have been long since expired but it just trudges on....
In particular interested in the effect on the engine drive (lower weight of the basket) and how much quieter (as I am not a lover of the "music" others seem to appreciate so much)

 

[Kramer]

Haven't started off yet this morning. But all I lack is torquing down the big hub nut.
But what I wanted to mention is that the basket and plates are the same weight as my stock bits. I think all the stuff I've been reading about the lighter weight might be in reference to the ST2/ST3/ST4. Not the ST4s which already has an aluminum basket and friction plates.

Prior to this exercise my clutch was working fine. I'd get the occasional groan when things were cold. But it was just banging so loudly that I just figured it was time. Time enough for me anyway. Alter looking at the differences between old and new, I see where the banging was coming from. The basket is notched pretty well and the tangs on the plates have definitely worn down. There's a lot of slop, whereas the new setup is very tight.
As for the friction material, it looks like I was dead-on with my swap decision. It was time, not much left at all.

I ended up spraying my pressure plate with a black caliper paint (I had laying around). It actually looks nice. And from a previous exercise I already had SS springs and Ti caps. Thinking with the now black plate, shiny springs and Ti caps, an open cover would look pretty good. Maybe with red or gold color caps, which would be just subtle enough. Meh, I'll prob. put the full cover back on. I just like the thought of keeping things "blown out" and cooler.
I'm off to the garage...

 

[Kramer]

Finished up this morning. I did run into a snag. I ended up twisting off one for the spring retainer bolts. That was a pain...having to get or the embedded bolt and then going out to get a new one. I had the Tq wrench set low...(as noted above) , but it spund too far before the clicking of the wrench. I was going very slow because I thought it was going too far. then...snap. Ug. I little drilling, an easy-out and new bold (new one no stainless like the others. But I l'll get a stainless one and put it in there later.
Also, i made a clutch holding tool out og one of the old plates ad a shack spanner I had laying around.

Observations.
I thought I was going to have to remove a plate or something. I seemed not to work properly. By that I mean rear wheel still spun while the clutch was pulled in (engaged?). But after a few minutes it seemed to work just fine. I did have to set my adjustable lever out to it's furthest most point.
QUIET! NO LASH! Beautiful. With the cover off, you can hear a little jingling with clutch pulled in. With clutch out, virtually no noise. Certainly no clanking like before.

Washed the bike from a >1000 mile ride last weekend. It was grungy. So now I go ride it to blow off the hidden water. Looks good/runs good/feels good/sounds good...GOOD.

Pics to follow.

 

[Kramer]

Tool