[holabird]

Just picked up a new to me 14 Multi. I dont like where the clutch releases. Is it adjustable? I have an aftermarket clutch lever and have tried all the different adjustments on that and I have made sure the clutch reservoir is full. Anything else I can try?

 

[TalH]

I've had the same question - I'm also unhappy about where my clutch engages, it's way too far for me. I was not able to find any way to adjust a hydraulic clutch, though. It's supposed to be "self adjusting" - I just don't like where it self-adjusting to!

Would be great to hear if someone has ideas around this.

 

[ducvet]

the only adjustments on the hydraulic clutches are..

1. the lever if adjustable for reach, if yours is not adjustable for reach you might try one to see if you change reach you will be happier.

2. Bleed down. This is controlling when ports open in the master cylinder , too little bleed down and the clutch will slip when hot. Too much bleed down and the clutch will be hard to find neutral as well as have a mushy feel.

When you change levers you always need to check that bleed down is correct, it should be adjustable on your clutch NOT your brake. Some aftermarket levers (cheap chi-com) will not have the crucial dimensions right and your bleed down will be off more than normal, good ones can be brought into spec.

If you have a wet slipper clutch they OFTEN have the friction point further away from the handlebar than a non-slipper clutch. This can be made slightly better with adjusting levers and some times bleed down but it really is the design of the clutch you have.

 

[RC713]

It is possible to adjust the engagement point on a hydraulic clutch. Don’t know that model and how it’s done on your bike, just letting you know that you are not wasting your time looking for how to do it. Post some pics of your lever setup, lots of smart people around these parts.

 

[Old Coot]

Air in the system would cause the clutch to engage late. You might try 'burping' the hydraulic line at the lever to remove air from the system.

 

[BOTT]

Design wise, there is no adjustment but the lever w/dial. Where the spring pressure in the master sends the piston back home. In other words, the lever can be brought forward or back, but the base of the lever's fulcrum point remains loaded up at the stop.

That's why aftermarket cannot flat out duplicate the lever exact. It is more like a copy of a patented part. So it's just off so much to loophole the blueprints. Where the stop protrudes out, thus pushes the piston out enough to load the pressure plate off the stack.

Things occur to a point where it's hard to find N, plus the complaint of a slipping clutch pack. The design of the diameter of the hole, times the fluid about to be compressed calls the length of the piston's throw. The piston sent home is the pressure off the pressure plate. The modulation narrows down to the human factor of finding the IDIO to the feed.

Say too fast a speed is the difference of engine speed to back wheel, and in between both is to wrinkle the ramp of the slipper clutch assembly. The piston moves out as it follows the wear. Acts the same as a caliper's piston moving out, where it never loses lever pressure, or needs to be adjusted, etc.

Lever to grip action to show clutch wear. Acts the same as a cable:
1. Lever leaves grip, clutch starts to engage. Fresh clutch pack.
2. Lever leaves the grip farther away before engagement. Clutch worn, this side of slipping.
3. Idiosyncrasy calls the throw. Throttle feed to brain cells to lever's leave = Smooth Operator.

Any squid can throw a cable. Takes more of an art to let out a liquid lever.

Signed,
Traffic Light Goes Green Throws The Lever Ever So Clean... Club

 

[duc96cr]

Wont either changing the stack height or pushrod length alter the engagement point ? Seems as if it would, a little , because the slave piston travel is limited .

 

[ducvet]

2014 multi is a wet clutch so stack height not as viable a change the clutches slip sooner so it can introduce issues more than a dry clutch.

If you compare wet slipper and non-slipper clutches you will see the difference is noticeable, often when I test ride a bike with wet slipper it seems as I have forgotten how a clutch works lol.

 

[duc96cr]

Theoretically, Couldn’t you alter the push rod length to change the lever engagement point ?

 

[Siddo]

Theoretically, Couldn’t you alter the push rod length to change the lever engagement point ?

You can. It's threaded.

 

[ducvet]

Pushrod between clutch and slave ?
or
pushrod between lever and master?

Duc96cr the engine pushrod length could change things a little but you would need to make your own to do it and I have never had anyone want me to try and shorten theirs. Usually it is just the matter of picking an adjustable lever to get the reach you want and then getting used to the bike having a friction point in a different location. Never was a big deal but everyone is different.

 

[duc96cr]

I was referring to the one between the slave and clutch.

 

[duc96cr]

My preference would be an engagement point near the center of the lever travel . I’ve got the SS clutch rod in my hand right now. Looks like I need new o-rings on it. I need to figure out the best way to move the engagement point in the lever travel . Maybe I need to look at the pushrod in the master.

 

[ducvet]

On an old bike like yours it should be close to the handlebar, normally.

If you have played with hydraulic ratios by altering the piston diameter of the slave you will be even closer to the bar typically, bigger bore=more travel. You may want to increase the master cylinder bore as well to push more fluid moving the engagement further away from the bar. If you wish to attempt a longer pushrod test just drop a ball in the slave to simulate a longer pushrod and make sure it can be removed.

 

[BOTT]

Longer throw? Would that rattle out a plate?

 

[duc96cr]

I get it. I’ll play with that aspect after it’s rideable again. Thanks , Ducvet.

 

[ducvet]

"Longer throw? Would that rattle out a plate? "

No there is a limit to how far the pressure plate can travel you will run into a wall at some point, not far enough to allow plates to come out of alignment unless it was assembled incorrectly. With a big bore slave you often are not opening the clutch up as far as you once were so adding a shim if you will may help.

Duc96cr
did you add the slave for looks,a bad oem or for easier pull?
If for easier pull try running a 4 spring clutch and revert to the oem slave then you have proper clutch separation and easier clutch pull.

 

[Surferdoc]

"Longer throw? Would that rattle out a plate? "

No there is a limit to how far the pressure plate can travel you will run into a wall at some point, not far enough to allow plates to come out of alignment unless it was assembled incorrectly. With a big bore slave you often are not opening the clutch up as far as you once were so adding a shim if you will may help.

Duc96cr
did you add the slave for looks,a bad oem or for easier pull?
If for easier pull try running a 4 spring clutch and revert to the oem slave then you have proper clutch separation and easier clutch pull.

The piston on the lever at the master cylinder is adjustable on mine. I had to take the lever off, remove the small set screw(carefully) and adjust the piston stroke in or out. Then reassemble and test the various settings at the lever. Mine is an aftermarket type.

 

[Stradakat1]

Air in the system would cause the clutch to engage late. You might try 'burping' the hydraulic line at the lever to remove air from the system.

Great idea. Ducati clutches gain some air over time at the clutch slave cylinder. Bleeding that air at the clutch master cylinder has always worked for me. Especially important when us flat landers ride in the thin air of the mountains. That air bubble gets big up there and can lead to rough shifting and difficulty engaging the clutch. I’ve had to bleed my new V4S MTS a couple of times and did it every year or two on my 2010 MTS.