[tahoest2]

I have posted a few different links about several issues with my 1998 ST2 so I though I'd consolidate a bit for those that are interested.

1. Rotors. Have had a shudder in the front end while braking. New pads installed and my problem is MUCH better but it seems that new rotors are in order if I want to fix the issue 100%.

2. Oil leak. It would seem that my oil leak was caused by my breather. I had the older/original style one that has now been replaced. I have ridden 100 miles now and no oil leak, which is truly fantastic(time to do a deep clean on the bike.).

3. My mechanic put back in the original ST chip. The bike seems to run better than with the 161 chip. There are still a few issues but overall I think it's better off with the original chip.

 

[cb4265]

How many miles or kilometres do you have on your rotors?

Craig

 

[dr1445]

the oem chip runs leaner [more air less fuel], so when you get back to sea level your machine might run hotter or not, with less power as it is no longer optimized for running at s/l. it depends on the after market cans and how close their flow is compared to the stock cans.

 

[va duc]

Glad to hear you are getting things sorted out and thanks for the update. I also have a 98 ST2 and have been following your threads with great interest. I have thought about changing over to full floating rotors to fix the small amount of brake shudder I have. I will take the advice of many on here and replace my steering head bearings this winter to see if that helps. Good luck with that ST!

 

[Ronin120]

I'm leaving tomorrow morning for a loop down thru the Shenandoah Valley, West Virginia, over thru Kentucky, up to Dayton and then back. This will run me thru areas above sea level. My bike has the stock mufflers, gearing and ECU. The only change is the addition of a K&N filter. I'll be interested to see what effects the change in altitude will have on my bike. I'm betting that it is right now running Eurospec lean.

Stock brakes too. Which are A-OK by me.

Thanks for the ongoing info Tahoe, and everyone else.

 

[tahoest2]

My rotors now have 26,000 miles on them. There is a noticeable difference with the new pads-for the better. The shudder is still there but much improved. Not sure how long rotors are supposed to last?

I am interested in seeing how the bike runs at sea level. So far, it's smoother up here at 6,000 ft. However, with my old chip the rough area was ONLY at 3,900 rpms. Now it seems a touch rough between 3-4,000rpms but not as violent as the the 3,900 rpm issue by itself. I did have a hiccup too at 7,000 rpms, a sudden loss of power with my old chip. I took the bike up to speed a few times yesterday (100-120mph) and it was smooth all the way through. I do notice that when I close the throttle it's a smoother transition. The bike doesn't seem to pull quite as hard, but it's smoother so maybe it's just as fast but just doesn't have the same feel?

Need a few more miles on the bike to really decide which is better. I think they both have their pros and cons. I think I'm getting better gas mileage, I will know after another tank of gas. I did hear a bit of popping with the old chip back in. I put in higher grade gas to see if that fixes it.

Are the chips 'plug and play'? Can you just pull one and replace with another? Or do you need to pull the batter power to make sure nothing get fried?

 

[va duc]

Its always a good idea to disconnect the power source and ground yourself before touching electronic equipment! Remember that your ecu has a separate connection to ground or negative via the frame jumper even if you disconnect the main wiring harnes connection. I would only disconnect the positive side of the battery if I was working on mine. After that the chips are plug & play.
.

My rotors now have 26,000 miles on them. There is a noticeable difference with the new pads-for the better. The shudder is still there but much improved. Not sure how long rotors are supposed to last?

I am interested in seeing how the bike runs at sea level. So far, it's smoother up here at 6,000 ft. However, with my old chip the rough area was ONLY at 3,900 rpms. Now it seems a touch rough between 3-4,000rpms but not as violent as the the 3,900 rpm issue by itself. I did have a hiccup too at 7,000 rpms, a sudden loss of power with my old chip. I took the bike up to speed a few times yesterday (100-120mph) and it was smooth all the way through. I do notice that when I close the throttle it's a smoother transition. The bike doesn't seem to pull quite as hard, but it's smoother so maybe it's just as fast but just doesn't have the same feel?

Need a few more miles on the bike to really decide which is better. I think they both have their pros and cons. I think I'm getting better gas mileage, I will know after another tank of gas. I did hear a bit of popping with the old chip back in. I put in higher grade gas to see if that fixes it.

Are the chips 'plug and play'? Can you just pull one and replace with another? Or do you need to pull the batter power to make sure nothing get fried?

 

[tahoest2]

Quick update. Well, the stock chip is not going to cut it... The bike runs like garbage at lower RPM's with it back in. The loss of power is noticeable as well. Gas mileage is incredible though. I would usually see my fuel light come on at 130 miles. I just rode 2 up for 175 miles with 2 bars still showing and now fuel light as of yet. But I'm not going to get used to that-the 161 chip needs to go back in-ASAP.