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Discussion Starter #1
My bike has 1800 miles on it, and while on the freeway cruising about 70-75mph, the check engine light came on. I just installed two of the Fatduc units less than 50 miles ago. Could that have anything to do with it? Also, how do you read any stored codes? Apparently you can, but the manual is really vague. After leaving the bike sit for about 5 minutes, the light is no longer on. Any help would be appreciate, as the closest dealer is about an hour away.
 

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My bike has 1800 miles on it, and while on the freeway cruising about 70-75mph, the check engine light came on. I just installed two of the Fatduc units less than 50 miles ago. Could that have anything to do with it? Also, how do you read any stored codes? Apparently you can, but the manual is really vague. After leaving the bike sit for about 5 minutes, the light is no longer on. Any help would be appreciate, as the closest dealer is about an hour away.
There is talk of the Fatducs causing codes and lights in other threads. Did you get the updated ECU map installed? Mine runs very well now with the updated map and 14t sprocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My dealer said they adjusted the throttle bodies and TPS at the 600 mile service, but the bike still runs like crap. Even with Termi slip ons, the racing ECU, and the Fatducs. I would say it is maybe 50% better with the Fatducs, but still annoying, and I have a smooth throttle hand. My Triumph 675 was like butter compared to this bike, but I still wouldn't go back. Just want it to run right, and not have check engine lights.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mine runs very well now with the updated map and 14t sprocket.
By the way, does the 14t sprocket help get the speedo more accurate? Is it more wheelie prone? ;)
 

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By the way, does the 14t sprocket help get the speedo more accurate? Is it more wheelie prone? ;)
The problem is the new map is not available for the Termi ECU. I would go back to stock exhaust/ECU until Ducati releases a new map fir the Termi. It makes the bike sooo much better. Oh by the way, I came from triumph 675 too.

Not sure on the speedo, conflicting opinions but I think it's better. Wheelie prone? No, it's not that big of a difference. It's a little more torque off the bottom, which is what helps with the flat spots I think but its not crazy torque.
Highly recommended.
 

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Bon Vivant
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By the way, does the 14t sprocket help get the speedo more accurate? Is it more wheelie prone?
It wont affect the speedo reading it's taken off the rear wheel. It will be more wheelie prone but only by a minute amount - I doubt you will notice that much difference.

The sprocket won't get rid of your problem, only move it in the RPM range, possibly to an area that is less used and more livable...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What is the big advantage to the front sprocket change then? Would a rear sprocket change of say 3 teeth, help the speedo issue, and still accomplish the same benefits?
 

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As my mechanic told me today the 14 t front sprocket will add 900 RPM to your engine speed up to 100 m/hr and 1,800 RPM above that.
Extra teeth to the rear add 300 RPM per tooth.
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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FatDucs:
Most likely you are running rich. Open the bleeders a little or back off the O2 settings. Turning off the ignition and restarting will clear the light usually right away. If you run the engine over 4k it shouldn't happen, it's when you cruise near/sub 4k that it typically happens. Any changes need to be incremental in as such that you change one thing, then put some time on the bike before changing it again.

Speedo:
The wheel has a sensor that relays speed, independent of any sprocket changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
FatDucs:
Most likely you are running rich. Open the bleeders a little or back off the O2 settings. Turning off the ignition and restarting will clear the light usually right away. If you run the engine over 4k it shouldn't happen, it's when you cruise near/sub 4k that it typically happens. Any changes need to be incremental in as such that you change one thing, then put some time on the bike before changing it again.

Speedo:
The wheel has a sensor that relays speed, independent of any sprocket changes.
Good info on both things. You are probably right about the cruising thing. That is probably what caused it. It is still rough running down low, so I thought it was maybe too lean.
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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Another thing to take notice of is, in the morning hours and cool temps you wont throw a light but ride through into the hotter temps in the afternoon and bingo you throw a light. All in all the Manipulators have helped... and after or rather WHEN I can get the damn bike flashed, they will help to smooth it out much better. As far off as things are stock in the idle-4k range, the Manipulators are doing a fair job of it.
 

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Bon Vivant
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As my mechanic told me today the 14 t front sprocket will add 900 RPM to your engine speed up to 100 m/hr and 1,800 RPM above that.
Extra teeth to the rear add 300 RPM per tooth.
OK the 900 rpm difference I could buy but the output sprocket is not variable, the relationship between engine speed and gear ratios stay constant, it is not possible for the number to change at a certain speed.
 

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Blame the universe not the tank!
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If you want to examine different gear ratios...

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

My only comment on gear ratio was that I understood that while the final output to the sprockets remained constant, the ratio in the transmission is what changes as you shift from one to the next. Altering the final drive sprockets lets you shift things slightly up or down, but only to a certain extent.

But for the GP9, with its' cassette gear box, this adds the complexity of changing gear ratios prior to final drive so that if you needed to be going 70mph in 3rd instead of 60mph, you change it out while the other gears stay the same or change depending on need for top speed or various cornering speeds.

Check out the link, it's pretty cool stuff.
 

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I plugged in some numbers, tell me what you guys think as far as it making sense. The app. has the 1098 in it, you do have to change the gearing for a few gears (3,4,5 i think) but anyway. Here it goes...
Note in parenthesis is the stock mph.

41 tooth rear at 4200rpm you get:

1st gear 25mph (27)
2nd gear 35mph (38)
3rd gear 45mph (48)
4th gear 53mph (57)
5th gear 60mph (65)
6th gear 71mph (77)

41tooth rear at 5000rpm you get:

1st gear 30mph (33)
2nd gear 42mph (46)
3rd gear 53mph (57)
4th gear 63mph (68)
5th gear 71mph (77)
6th gear 85mph (91)

41tooth rear at 7500rpm you get:
1st gear 45 (49)
2nd gear 63 (68)
3rd gear 80 (86)
4th gear 95 (102)
5th gear 107 (115)
6th gear 127 (137)


Top speed drops to 165mph at 9750rpm from 178mph

I think I transferred the numbers correctly... enjoy! :think:
 
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