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Last ditch effort because I ship my 2011 SFS to the dealer.

I’ve been dealing with this issue for the past month or so, the check engine light come on and off randomly when I turn the key on, and it would stay on most of the time after I start the bike. 15-20 min into a ride my dash would blink and I would get the error code CAN 38.0, but the bike runs fine. I would turn the bike off and back on and it repeats the same cycle.

I was told it could be a battery issue so I changed the rectifier/regulator and got a new battery, same thing is still happening. Checked all the wire connections and nothing looks out of place....

Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Bon Vivant
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Last ditch effort because I ship my 2011 SFS to the dealer.

I’ve been dealing with this issue for the past month or so, the check engine light come on and off randomly when I turn the key on, and it would stay on most of the time after I start the bike. 15-20 min into a ride my dash would blink and I would get the error code CAN 38.0, but the bike runs fine. I would turn the bike off and back on and it repeats the same cycle.

I was told it could be a battery issue so I changed the rectifier/regulator and got a new battery, same thing is still happening. Checked all the wire connections and nothing looks out of place....

Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

38.0 can is a can-bus communications line error. All of the electronics on this bike run on the canbus system so it could be anything from a corroded plug to a broken wire or heck it might even be a burned out bulb. I wish I could tell you how to chase down the problem. Maybe someone else can chime in on this one? Secret Squirrel?
 

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That's exactly how I'd go about sourcing the problem. If it's a can bus issue first trace any modified wiring that's been done. A tail tidy or even aftermarket turn signals can cause a problem if there's any poor wiring connections. Pinched wires can also cause odd problems. These bikes are delicate when it comes to the can/bus system.


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If I remember correctly the ECU ground is further back in the subframe. You shouldn't have to lift the tank.


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Last ditch effort because I ship my 2011 SFS to the dealer.
Don't give up dude

Canbus is no mystery it's just a network over 2 wire between ecu, dtc and dash.

Behind dash it's pin 5 and 12 i would trace these.

Pay attention behind the headlight where the wires moves, good place for a short. The 3 places in the tail i highlighted in the referenced thread could be a good place to look too.

If cabling look good try to unplug dtc module and try the bike.

If you can borrow an ecu and put a map with immobilizer disabled it could be a good test too.

If everything is perfect, this will point to the dash.

But seeing it's part time, my guess is the wiring harness.

I don't know why some say the electrics are special, it's like any bike and will give you trouble if you pinched a wire somewhere, or one rubbed to ground. No you won't have any error for a burnt bulb. A pinched wire will quickly worn it's insulation, and loose wiring too.
 

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Bon Vivant
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Don't give up dude

Canbus is no mystery it's just a network over 2 wire between ecu, dtc and dash.

Behind dash it's pin 5 and 12 i would trace these.

Pay attention behind the headlight where the wires moves, good place for a short. The 3 places in the tail i highlighted in the referenced thread could be a good place to look too.

If cabling look good try to unplug dtc module and try the bike.

If you can borrow an ecu and put a map with immobilizer disabled it could be a good test too.

If everything is perfect, this will point to the dash.

But seeing it's part time, my guess is the wiring harness.

I don't know why some say the electrics are special, it's like any bike and will give you trouble if you pinched a wire somewhere, or one rubbed to ground. No you won't have any error for a burnt bulb. A pinched wire will quickly worn it's insulation, and loose wiring too.

Ricko is right and sorry about the bulb thing I was over exaggerating 0:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ricko is right and sorry about the bulb thing I was over exaggerating 0:)
I did read somewhere that aftermarket turn signals were the cause for the CAN for a couple of people...

I’ve pretty much taken the whole bike apart and will go through every wire. Thanks for the advice everyone.
 

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I don't buy canbus error because of turnsignals. They have positive (+) from the ignition and the ecu gives the negative, but nothing to do with canbus. Unless a bad installation mess with the power supply of the ecu.

Good luck and let us know the outcome ;)
 

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You may want to investigate more on can/bus. These systems are very sensitive to resistance changes. When installing different turn signals a different resistance value can occur. Especially while going from regular signals to LED. That's why on some of the bikes there's a setting for regular and LED signals in the dashboard. Just saying


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Also we've seen several SF's go dead from a short after a tail tidy installation. Believe it or not the turn signals will affect the whole system on these bikes.
This is because this made the key/on fuse to blow and it is essential for the engine to run, and to the dash.
 

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You may want to investigate more on can/bus. These systems are very sensitive to resistance changes. When installing different turn signals a different resistance value can occur. Especially while going from regular signals to LED. That's why on some of the bikes there's a setting for regular and LED signals in the dashboard. Just saying


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Yeah it will sense change and make turn signals flash more rapidly so you know a bulb is blown.

Exact same reason why some bikes have this in the menus, so you don't have to use resistors or a LED flasher relay.

Nothing mystical there squirrel.

What's your day job again? I'm electronic technician and know canbus very well. Just saying
 

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You may want to investigate more on can/bus. These systems are very sensitive to resistance changes. When installing different turn signals a different resistance value can occur. Especially while going from regular signals to LED. That's why on some of the bikes there's a setting for regular and LED signals in the dashboard. Just saying


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I've been running all led signals for a couple years. No resistors. Blinks fast. No cel or other issues.
 

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Bon Vivant
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OK so we've established that the Turn signals are not a part of the canbus system, but that doesn't change the fact that the op has a canbus problem. - it just eliminates one area to investigate. I am no expert when it comes to electrical stuff on our bikes.

I've used a type of canbus in my RC aircraft called X-bus and I know that everything in the bus system has a separate power, ground and a signal wire that connects to the bus controller.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Unfortunately haven’t had a lot of time to deal with it, the bike is pretty much apart so I can get to the wiring so hopefully I’ll have time to work on it soon...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just a quick update, just in case anyone else run into the same issue. It was the DDA cable, unplugged it, everything run files, no more CEL.
 
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