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Discussion Starter #1
Did my first track day last weekend on my 2011 MTS1200. Far from my first track day, though I'm FAR from the fastest out there. Curious what everyone has done for their setups. I'm headed back in another 10 days and want to improve ground clearance.

My setup (200 lbs in gear):

1. Traxxion AK20s with 0.80 kg/mm springs. Good spring for road and track.
2. Ohlins TTX w/ 100 Nmm spring. Little soft, will be upping the rate soon.
3. Brembo M50 calipers w/ Galfer pads and stock rotors. Bullshit rotors.
4. Dunlop GP-A Pros. The 190/60 rear necessitated removal of the mudguard due to rubbing while moving. Forget getting a tire warmer on there...
5. Removed rear seat to get more room. This alone was an epiphany.
6. Removed passenger peg brackets to get foot room. Running with the brackets was a no-no.
7. Removed centerstand to get more foot room.

I destroyed a set of toe sliders. The wide bar and low pegs make it difficult to get in position and unless I'm really monkeying off the bike, the toes touch down right before the knee. Ground clearance sucked.

What's everyone using for higher pegs? Since there are no traditional rearsets, are people just using riser pegs? How about the shifter/brake lever? Looking for suggestions so I can get something on the bike ASAP.
 

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I use to do trackdays on my previous 2013 so i have a little experience. As far as ground clearance goes, I would also remove side stand and install 40 mm adjustable footrests (off ebay) and CNC Racing adjustable pedals. Thanks for the tip about removing the rear seat. I never thought about it and could use more room myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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What I did to stop my center stand scraping:

Since I was always at full preload on the rear, and I wanted more..., I removed my shock, manually moved down the collar (I forget the distance, but you can measure it) so as to trick the computer. Now the minimum setting is the same preload as the max under stock configuration.

I think I compressed it another 3-6 units on the computer. It's made the rear a lil more stiff, and it's not as good on goat roads, but she's a lot better when pushing 10/10th's and no more scraping (even with the center stand!!).

PS; good advice on removing the rear seat,,, I will have to try that!

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, I'm sure I would have been rubbing even more if I didn't have the stiffer springs and taller rear tire!

I picked up those Slingshot Racing footpegs off eBay last night. I'm going to pay with the stock levers to see if I can make things work.
 

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I'm doing Laguna in a couple weeks!

The pic is from Streets of Willow.

Tight technical course where having those wide bars makes life ridiculously easy.
 

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I'll be coaching for DESMO next week at NYST so I'm leaving the race bike home and instead taking the Multi which should be easier at a variety of speeds.
What about removing the tail plate & rear signals, is that easy to do?
I'm riding to the track so if it's complicated I'll just tape over those too.
 

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Get some good brake pads. Ebc hh is what I tried
The online scu is magic for 10-12 S owners. 10kn spring rear a must.
Don't reduce tirepressure on streettires.

Biggest issue I have is trying to get up on the balls of my feet. The heel rests on the centerstand fold down peg on the left and the exhaust on the right (Terminal full system)
 

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What about removing the tail plate & rear signals, is that easy to do?
I'm riding to the track so if it's complicated I'll just tape over those too.
On my 10, it’s four bolts under the passenger seat and two electrical plugs after you lower the assembly. It’s easy, but you will get an error message as soon as you touch the brakes. It all returns to normal when you put it back together.
 

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On my 10, it’s four bolts under the passenger seat and two electrical plugs after you lower the assembly. It’s easy, but you will get an error message as soon as you touch the brakes. It all returns to normal when you put it back together.

Yes, got it. That worked well. For the track day I could leave the race bike behind and just ride to the track on the street bike, remove mirrors (careful the right side is reverse thread), tape the headlight and blinkers, and drop the tail unit.

I did learn that the forum posts are indeed correct that even coaching the slow novice or intermediate groups does drag the center stand even in Sport mode!

It is easy to remove, or setting more rear preload, or setting to luggage mode... but instead I just leaned body position with more hanging off ... and remember why I do have a track bike!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm heading to Pocono again this weeekend and plan to remove the sidestand this time. What is everyone doing with the sidestand switch? Just clocking it as if the stand were up and zip tie'ing it in place?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ran the bike last weekend at Pocono again. Changes this time were a set of riser pegs and removed side stand (answered my own question and left the sensor zip tied to it's own mount). Gained about an inch of clearance with the pegs in their position. I ran them back a bit to help with my body positioning, so I didn't get the full 40 mm of rise.

The result was a huge improvement in ground clearance and body positioning! I still ground a set of toe sliders down, but the speeds were much higher this time around. I left the original shifter in place before committing to any other add-ons and it worked out ok. I did miss an upshift or three, but no issues downshifting.

Shift lever aside, I'm going to fit a set of narrower handlebars. The stickers are a little wide for my shoulder width and the width makes it more difficult to get my upper body in position; my outside arm is completely stretched out.

Headed back in a couple weeks. Same track, weather permitting.

And some video proof...since no professional photographer attends Pocono dates:

https://youtu.be/hoglF4lYxIM
 
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