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Discussion Starter #1
My rear brake has amost no braking power. The pads & fluid level looked OK to me but thinking that the pads are glazed-over or the caliper piston is stuck, I decided to pull the caliper. Not having a service manual, I foolishly pulled out the rubber grommet on the rearmost mounting post. Doi!

I appears to me, that to remove the rear caliper, one must first remove the rear wheel and then the caloiper will -slide- off the two mounting posts. Am I remotely close to having that right?

Also, after removing the R-clip, I thought that the pad retaining post would slide-out of the caliper. No-go on my caliper. Any help is apprecaited.

/Mike
 

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just so you know... the rear break is near useless on these bikes... so the if it feels noneffective, it's normal. That said it should, say if you were starting up a hill, hold the bike in position. But I think one would have to work extra hard to lock the wheel... anyone agree?
 

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+1 Feels like two wooden blocks squeezing the disc. Replaced the caliper and mount with a Brembo two piston model and now it locks on command - as it should. The two piston calipers with mounts can be picked up for about $50-$75 on ebay. I don't remember which fits but it's one used on many Duc models.
 

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+1 Feels like two wooden blocks squeezing the disc. Replaced the caliper and mount with a Brembo two piston model and now it locks on command - as it should. The two piston calipers with mounts can be picked up for about $50-$75 on ebay. I don't remember which fits but it's one used on many Duc models.
the remote possibility of the rear wheel locking just freaks me out, so I'm perfectly happy with a weak rear-break...

then again, I upgraded the front with 4p brembos, so i got plenty of stopping power now, and it's way more progressive than the 3p stock calipers, so less rear-break needed.
 

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I'm in that camp as well. It seems like inadequate braking power, until you actually use it in a panic stop and the weight is all on the front, and maybe you have shut the throttle but not pulled in the clutch yet so there is engine braking as well...and then the rear brake locks quite easily, thank you...maybe too easily.

Different riding styles may necessitate different equipment, but personally I find the rear brake to be about right. With aggressive downshifting and no slipper I am nearly skidding the rear with no brake application at all!
 

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Mine feels like 2 slices of salami too..

Almost seems like they did not want you to be able to lock up the rear. If I were Brembo I would be embarrassed to have my name on the caliper.
:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Great info on alternative calipers, but back to my specific needs:

Can anyone help me with the procedure for removing the rear caliper? And should the pad retainer pin be able to be removed once the R clip is pulled?

/Mike
 

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I sometimes use my rear brake to correct my speed in a turn without affecting the front end. Call me crazy but it helps me on occasion. I like the way it works stock. Not too sticky, just good enough to assist the overall braking...
 

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Never done it Mike..

But will give it a look when I get home, maybe I'll have a brainstorm.
 

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Manual says...

Change the brake pads as follows:
Remove the cotter pin (1) from the
pad retaining pin (2). Force the caliper
pistons back into their bores by forcing
the brake pads apart. Withdraw the
brake pad retaining pin (2) from the
outside.
Remove the worn pads (3),
detaching them from the spring (4).
Notes
Change pads that have a shiny
or “vitrified” appearance.
Insert the new pads and fit the
springs (4) and (5). Insert the pad
retaining pin (2) and secure it the
cotter pin (1). Operate the brake
pedal repeatedly so that the pads
are bedded in against the disc by the
force of the brake fluid.
Check that the brake fluid level in the
reservoir (6) is between the MIN and
MAX marks. If not, unscrew the
reservoir cover (5) and top up with the
recommended brake fluid.
Notes
If it proves difficult to change
the brake pads, first remove the
caliper (Sect. G 3 and G 6).

Section on removing the caliper says:

Before removing the brake
caliper (3), remove the clips (B)
attaching the wire of the rear wheel
speed sensor to the brake hose.
To remove the speed sensor (13),
unscrew the bolt (14) securing it to
the caliper mounting bracket,
recovering the spacer (6).
To remove the caliper mounting
bracket (3), first remove the rear
wheel (Sect. G 4).
Free the caliper (3) from the pin (C) on
the swingarm.
Only remove the caliper (D) from the
mounting bracket if it is necessary to
renew the rubber seals (5).


So yeah, you remove the wheel to get the caliper off - don't unbolt the caliper from the bracket. But in theory you can change the pads with the caliper in place (?!?).
 

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On all of mine, I have found that:

a) the more you use them, the better they work

b) they work better with a passenger (on biposti)

c) on a monoposto, or biposto w/o passenger, release most pressure on the rear once the weight transfers to the front, or it WILL lock up

Tom
 

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I was just messin around one day in an empty lot, and without using the front brake, I locked up the back no problem. I think for a back brake, its not bad. It beats a mechanical drum brake! :)
 

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I was just messin around one day in an empty lot, and without using the front brake, I locked up the back no problem. I think for a back brake, its not bad. It beats a mechanical drum brake! :)
I do this all the time in traffic to scare my friends and pedestrians...makes a nice squeal.... :D
 

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I do this all the time in traffic to scare my friends and pedestrians...makes a nice squeal.... :D
Me too, I like to come roaring up to friends and lock the rear and slide to a stop for fun. Looks impressive but easy. They can't see the grin inside my helmet.

I've heard the GT's rear brake is different than the monoshock's because it is for riding two-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I dropped the bike off at the dealership to have the work done. I feel so Cosmopolitan.:D Funny, I recognize half of the bikes in the service area for being owned by friends.

I pulled the stupid rubber cush bushing out of the caliper so I needed the caliper pulled from the mounting plate. I don't have a proper stand to remove the rear wheel or even a spanner to fit the axle nut. Some Ducatisti I am.:(

/Mike
 
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