[desmonatic]

Hey, gang, just changed out my chain and sprockets. After following everybody"s advice here, I decided to go with 15/43. Let me tell you, some serious grunt and torque transfer now to the rear wheel. My problem is, when I re-assembled the sprocket to the cush and went to tighten it up, the wheel doesn't index on the pins all the way and there is a very narrow open line between the mating surfaces. The cone spacer is shiny side in, taper towards center and it still won't close. I took it up to 90 with no problems, but now I am worried that I may have missed something. Has anybody encountered this problem? Thanks for any advice:think:

 

[Punch]

Hey, gang, just changed out my chain and sprockets. After following everybody"s advice here, I decided to go with 15/43. Let me tell you, some serious grunt and torque transfer now to the rear wheel. My problem is, when I re-assembled the sprocket to the cush and went to tighten it up, the wheel doesn't index on the pins all the way and there is a very narrow open line between the mating surfaces. The cone spacer is shiny side in, taper towards center and it still won't close. I took it up to 90 with no problems, but now I am worried that I may have missed something. Has anybody encountered this problem? Thanks for any advice:think:

Just looked at my 2001 900SSie.

I have about 2mm / around 1/16th inch gap between the sprocket carrier and the wheel.

This is how mine has always been.

I don't do it on my Duc, but on my restoration projects that are new to me, I photograph every thing and every step. This has saved me many a time, particularly when what is there and the manual differ. My 64 lambretta project is a prime example - right bits but wrong order/placement.

Richard

PS - I suggest you put your model and year in your signature or put that in with your question

 

[470four]

You SURE you have the right spacers in the right place??

 

[Punch]

The attachment shows the assembly of front and rear wheels.

From the distant past, if the spacers are not correctly installed, the wheel will not turn at all.

 

[desmonatic]

Thanks much, Punch, the photo advice went right into my brain! Thanks also for verifying that there is a small gap in the mate. I was worried that I missed something, but it appears to be normal. The sprocket nuts seem to travel pretty close to the inner swingarm but they are clear and the wheel spins smooth. My ride right now is the 2000 900ss ie and I am getting used to this style of riding with my son, who is a kneedragger. Great new thrills for an old Namvet. Thanks again for all the advice, Cork

 

[Punch]

Thanks much, Punch, the photo advice went right into my brain! Thanks also for verifying that there is a small gap in the mate. I was worried that I missed something, but it appears to be normal. The sprocket nuts seem to travel pretty close to the inner swingarm but they are clear and the wheel spins smooth. My ride right now is the 2000 900ss ie and I am getting used to this style of riding with my son, who is a kneedragger. Great new thrills for an old Namvet. Thanks again for all the advice, Cork

Photos are essential. E.g. I reckon I have three times as many photos of my Lambretta strip down and rebuild than there are parts.

Get your knee down b4 arthritis sets in

Richard

 

[budspencer]

seems normal to have a gap, the torque is transmitted to the wheel throught the 6 ruber mounts to have a smooth behaviours of the rear wheel, if the sprocket is in contact with the rim, then the torque is transmitted by the friction you would have between wheel and rim, and it's not what you want.
on a car it's the same, just the elastic coupling is between the clutch pressure plate and the cranck shaft, not at the wheel fixing.

 

[vickon]

Brembo Rear Wheel...

Hey desmonatic, I just did my chain and sprockets too two weeks ago and that gap is and has been there always! You should be good as long as you tighten everything to the specified torque specs.

Vickon:abduct: