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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All, I just purchased an 1198 yesterday, coming off a Honda CBR1000 I noticed the bike threw off way more heat then the Honda (as expected).. But what didn't seem normal was that a buddy of mine riding next to me noticed my Rear Header Pipe for about 8 inches off the engine was glowing red hot almost orange during normal street riding (stop and go 30+ mph) It was the first night on the bike it has about 100 Miles on it.

What really bothered me is even after the bike being shut down over night I started it and just idling after 60+ seconds the Header Piper is glowing again..

Is this normal? Could the bike be running to lean? Thanks in Advance!
 
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It's the CAT's in the stock muffler system that cause all the glowing,if you want to get rid of the glowing pipes, you need to get a slipon or a full system, in ordr to let the gasses escape freely. AND QUIT RIDIDNG IT IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC that is the worst thing one can do . I just bought the same ride , and couldn't believe the heat difference of my 999s to the 1198S .
 

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Im only going to comment but dont hold me too it. They make headers so thin and some times out of ti or thin stainless. For this reason they glow. My crf glows in the first 45 seconds and really glows at night when im riding it really hard. I would think it would pop a code and a light on the dash if it was abnormal. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's the CAT's in the stock muffler system that cause all the glowing,if you want to get rid of the glowing pipes, you need to get a slipon or a full system, in ordr to let the gasses escape freely. AND QUIT RIDIDNG IT IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC that is the worst thing one can do . I just bought the same ride , and couldn't believe the heat difference of my 999s to the 1198S .

If its normal with the stock exhaust then I'm fine with that, I was planning on installing a Full Termiginoni system anyway but seeing that made me nervous. As far as not riding in stop and go traffic are you referring to during the break in period or just avoid doing it at all?
 

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You bought an insanely fast bike. But the Honda is more street friendly, the 1198's really don't care about putting along anywhere below 40 mph.

As for break-in, the best thing you can do is head out to the hills, and ride it as normal. You don't need to go to redline, but use the rpm range to load up the engine and let it compression down.

Do a search here on the 'full' Termignoni systems. Everyone gets the slip-ons/ecu/filter. The full is like $1700 more and it doesn't make any extra power.

I have the Termignoni slip-ons as well, but am going to have a power commander added since it still runs very lean down low, and a little rich across the middle of the rpm range.
 

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It's the CAT's in the stock muffler system that cause all the glowing,if you want to get rid of the glowing pipes, you need to get a slipon or a full system, in ordr to let the gasses escape freely. AND QUIT RIDIDNG IT IN STOP AND GO TRAFFIC that is the worst thing one can do . I just bought the same ride , and couldn't believe the heat difference of my 999s to the 1198S .
The 1198 throws off more heat??? I would have thought Ducati had corrected this w/ the new bikes. I know the 1098 has a heat shield coming off the rear cylinder exhaust manifold.
Also what's more "comfy" the 999 or the 1198. I have a 999 and the 1198 feels decent....haven't ridden one long enough to get a feeling.
 

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Hello All, I just purchased an 1198 yesterday, coming off a Honda CBR1000 I noticed the bike threw off way more heat then the Honda (as expected).. But what didn't seem normal was that a buddy of mine riding next to me noticed my Rear Header Pipe for about 8 inches off the engine was glowing red hot almost orange during normal street riding (stop and go 30+ mph) It was the first night on the bike it has about 100 Miles on it.

What really bothered me is even after the bike being shut down over night I started it and just idling after 60+ seconds the Header Piper is glowing again..

Is this normal? Could the bike be running to lean? Thanks in Advance!
Tony what the better performing bike-the Honda (didn't mention what YY?) or the 1198?
I rode the new CBR1000 and it's no contest-it beats the 1098 like a rented mule.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Tony what the better performing bike-the Honda (didn't mention what YY?) or the 1198?
I rode the new CBR1000 and it's no contest-it beats the 1098 like a rented mule.
It was a 2006 1000RR, the bikes are hard to compare since I only have less then 100 miles on the 1198.. The L-Twin has totally different power delivery then the inline 4 that the Honda had.. I can't really make judgment yet until I can actually ride the thing without worrying about exceeding the 6000 RPM limit for the first 600 Miles.. As far as comfort my honda was definitely much more comfortable to ride, the Ducati I feel a lot more weight on my wrists then the Honda.. I'm taking it to the dealer in the morning to see what they say regarding this Header issue...
 

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Doesn't sound quite right, but I don't have an 1198 so FWIW...

Does the 1198 have an EXUP style valve in the exhaust system???

Had a friend with a Yamaha years ago, the servo on the EXUP valve failed. The valve stayed shut. Pipe overheated and melted the bodywork.

Just a thought.
 

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The 1198 throws off more heat??? I would have thought Ducati had corrected this w/ the new bikes. I know the 1098 has a heat shield coming off the rear cylinder exhaust manifold.
Also what's more "comfy" the 999 or the 1198. I have a 999 and the 1198 feels decent....haven't ridden one long enough to get a feeling.
I'd say yes the 1198 gives off noticably more heat then did my 999. Heat shield or not you can still feel it through leathers.
As for comfort I thought my 999 was very comfortable and did feel more pressure on the wrists with the 1198, but you get use to it pretty quick.
 
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If its normal with the stock exhaust then I'm fine with that, I was planning on installing a Full Termiginoni system anyway but seeing that made me nervous. As far as not riding in stop and go traffic are you referring to during the break in period or just avoid doing it at all?

I was refering to doing it in break in period, but I avoid riding in traffic at all times with the 1198 or any other "streetbike" I use a scooter for in town rididng or take my stuper duke for short haul rides and in town squidding around.There are many views on "break in " but I have used dyno for the last 8-10 bikes I have owned for break in purposes and had verry good luck with it. You only get ONE SHOT to break a motor in properly, anything after that is just running a motor. Thr crucial break in period occurs in the first 20 min of the motor running.

A buddy brought his new 1098 last year and broke it in to factory spec, ended up getting a complete over haul this past winter under warantee, to replace some leaky oil rings in BOTH cylinders, after replacing the rings, the dealer broke it in on the dyno for him.

His 1098 with a 70mm system dynoed out at 141.6 (before the rebuild)at the wheel, while mine with just the slipon dynoed out at 149.8 both bikes are 2007 1098s and mine never lost or burnt a drop of oil betwen oil changes, and his would eat the better part of a liter of oil between changes.After the rebuild he got 151 @ the wheel....only 1.2 hp more than mine......and he has a full system....WTF over ?

I believe the one reason the Mfg does not tell you to break it in hard is due to legal reasons, I can just imagine ,yes I was doing 140mph officer, but the "book" told me to break my bike in this way ? The old Mcdonalds coffee thing comming into play here, someones going to sue someones ass for missrepresentation somwhere.

google "breakin secrets " and read the whole thing ! not just parts of it, and make the decision for yourself . I know I just opened a can of worms on this subject, as it seems to cause a lot of confusion on every fourm I have been on.

You don't see the WSB or the F1 or Moto GP guys running a motor in for a thousand kms before they bag the shite out of it.......woops......yes I know this isn't WSB or F1, but a motor is a motor, and thats just the best way to treat it no matter how long it's meant to last.
 

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I know I just opened a can of worms on this subject, as it seems to cause a lot of confusion on every fourm I have been on.
That's because everyone has a different opinion on it, including you. This guy wasn't even asking for a how-to break-in. Maybe's he's broken in twice as many bikes as you...

You don't see the WSB or the F1 or Moto GP guys running a motor in for a thousand kms before they bag the shite out of it.......woops......yes I know this isn't WSB or F1, but a motor is a motor, and thats just the best way to treat it no matter how long it's meant to last.
Great comparison, stock motor vs fully built race motor with assloads of money and factory support. Hmmm lets worry about longevity....
 

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Hello All, I just purchased an 1198 yesterday, coming off a Honda CBR1000 I noticed the bike threw off way more heat then the Honda (as expected).. But what didn't seem normal was that a buddy of mine riding next to me noticed my Rear Header Pipe for about 8 inches off the engine was glowing red hot almost orange during normal street riding (stop and go 30+ mph) It was the first night on the bike it has about 100 Miles on it.

What really bothered me is even after the bike being shut down over night I started it and just idling after 60+ seconds the Header Piper is glowing again..

Is this normal? Could the bike be running to lean? Thanks in Advance!
I'd look into that, it doesn't sound right. That rear cylinder may be running lean.
 

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I'd look into that, it doesn't sound right. That rear cylinder may be running lean.
You will either soon notice, or already have noticed the fueling below 4k rpms is ... well, bad. It's very, very lean in order to comply with the various emissions requirements. A pair of Fat-Ducs will help, but not completely cure the problem if you're not going to do slip ons & an ecu for a while.
 

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You don't see the WSB or the F1 or Moto GP guys running a motor in for a thousand kms before they bag the shite out of it.......woops......yes I know this isn't WSB or F1, but a motor is a motor, and thats just the best way to treat it no matter how long it's meant to last.
You're right there ! Those engines are designed to blow up about 1 meter after the finish line ! Frankly, the F-1 interpretation of engine set up as it relates to your issue is quite different. Those engines are set up so tight that they cannot turnover at ambient temperatures. Another world completely. Nothing relevant here for comparison unfortunately.
 

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You will either soon notice, or already have noticed the fueling below 4k rpms is ... well, bad. It's very, very lean in order to comply with the various emissions requirements. A pair of Fat-Ducs will help, but not completely cure the problem if you're not going to do slip ons & an ecu for a while.
Yes sir, but I just hooked the 848 up last week with a full termi kit.
 
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You're right there ! Those engines are designed to blow up about 1 meter after the finish line ! Frankly, the F-1 interpretation of engine set up as it relates to your issue is quite different. Those engines are set up so tight that they cannot turnover at ambient temperatures. Another world completely. Nothing relevant here for comparison unfortunately.
If you look into the F1 rules, you will see that those engines HAVE to last 3-4 races without being touched, so I don't think they're the high strung motors of yester year as you described above?

back to glowing pipes, I don't think 1 cylinder is going to run leaner than the other as the TPS wouldn't allow this to happen ?
 
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