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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I went for a 24-Mile ride to a store. Noticed about twenty miles in, the rear end seemed to be dragging and the bike felt sluggish like running on one cylinder. Saw the gas gauge going down quickly. Pulled off the highway when safe and noticed the rear brakes were worn down to the backing plates and the rotor was heated. Noticed, what I believe to be the speed sensor, melted. Swing arm was extremely hot as well. :frown2:

What happened? I have put 3,300 Miles on it. Changed all fluids and bled everything beginning of the year. I did adjust the rear brake a bit to grab a bit sooner, earlier this month. Didn't notice any trouble after the adjustment.

Normally ride to work about 12 Miles one way.

Anyone had this issue or know what may have caused it?

Everything on the bike was working well. Now I have no rear brake and a melted cable. :crying:
The pedal is easily pressed.

Do I just put new pads and loosen the adjustment screw on the rear brakes?
 

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The rear brake lever has an adjustment bolt. It stops the lever from coming back up too high. Sometimes with vibrations, every time you hit the rear brake the bolt goes slack and turn itself down slowly and steadily. It eventually reaches low enough where your lever is not returning to the start position and keeps the brakes engaged. It has happens to me once, years ago on my SF 1098. Make sure the locking nut is tight on that bolt to prevent this in the future. This is just one possible scenario.
 

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Also try buying a fresh bottle of brake fluid, then re bleed your system, some times brake fluid can absorb moisture in the bottle, or its quite possible the brake system got some moisture in it, and with the heat generated in braking, the moisture can expand and jam on your rear brake on, i had this happen on an earlier RSVR.
 

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Do I just put new pads and loosen the adjustment screw on the rear brakes?
Depends if you want to fix the things that got damaged or just put a bandaid on it. A thorough repair would examine rotor, caliper seals, wheel bearings, etc.
 

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The other thing that can cause drag is if someone puts on new pads without insuring the pots are COMPLETELY clean. If they have any gunk stuck on them then when they're pushed back into the calipers that gunk will cause them to stick... and they don't stick in the back position... they stick in contact with the rotors and cause drag.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you, I was hoping to finish the season and order new.

Where can I find the part numbers. Nothing is listed in the repair manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My location is in my profile. It doesn't show it like yours. Do I need to put in my signature?

Thanks for the info.
 
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