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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone fitted braided brake lines to their Monster? I have a 2013 M1100 EVO ABS.... and am wondering
* are the OEM lines the typical rubber (altho I note the ABS lines have a fair length of steel tube in them)??
* has anyone fitted braided lines to an EVO with or without ABS?
 

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enliven - I know your post is old but thought I would offer up what I have done. I replaced all my lines with HEL braided lines a few years ago when I changed out my handlebars. I have not had any issues. I did have to bleed at the ABS unit but it wasn't a big deal.

(I went with a slightly taller, wider Renthal bar with slightly more rear sweep. It was an ergonomics choice for me.)
 

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enliven - I know your post is old but thought I would offer up what I have done. I replaced all my lines with HEL braided lines a few years ago when I changed out my handlebars. I have not had any issues. I did have to bleed at the ABS unit but it wasn't a big deal.

(I went with a slightly taller, wider Renthal bar with slightly more rear sweep. It was an ergonomics choice for me.)
How did you go aboot getting that abs unit bled properly? I must be doing it wrong, because I cant get the rear to hold for shit. Won't even go 500 miles before the pedal is bottoming.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Jackie: It is a saga. Short version is that I am bleeding all brakes often.

Long version
* Dealer replaced the ABS pump. I have also replaced the rear master and rear caliper. This helped ... mostly to stop the fronts going to nothing rapidly.

* Rear is generally quite soft, and softens over time - I am getting a month or two.
* I have bled the rear caliper in p,ace, and also removed it and bled it upside down (to get the bleed nipple at the top), and at the ABS pump
* mostly I find bleeding at the caliper, in place, is good enough

* I have bled the front calipers and master, and ABS, I find the master is good enough

* fronts are a bit soft and soften over time
* rears are soft and get worse
* Dealer suggests maybe the fluid is boling in the lines as they are close to the headers on the EVO. I am uncertain - note its winter here and the bike doesn't get crazy hot

ALSO< I see quito suggests braided lines in a post above.... about which I have many questions
* I though the OEMs were braided anyway?
* The OEM lines include lengths of pipe, which surely are better than braided lines? are these pipes replaces by the HEL lines?
* who made up the lines? Do you have a spec for them?
* did you do ALL lines, front and rear, and for ABS?
 

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enliven, in response to your questions:
* I though the OEMs were braided anyway? I believe you are correct.

* The OEM lines include lengths of pipe, which surely are better than braided lines? Indeed as they won't expand. are these pipes replaces by the HEL lines? Yes, all one line.

* who made up the lines? Do you have a spec for them? HEL made the lines. I gave them my old lines so they should be able to duplicate them. I made detailed drawings for the modified versions I needed which was before they had their point-n-click build your own lines website up.

* did you do ALL lines, front and rear, and for ABS? Indeed

My bike just came back from having the engine balanced and blueprinted and wouldn't you know it, the rear brake was non-existent. My Multistrada had the same problem.

My technique on bleeding the ABS isn't rocket science. I loosen the line at the ABS block and treat the bolt like a bleed valve. The obvious problem is the fluid leaks out over the ABS block. I enlist the services of another to mop up as I go. Definitely a two person task. I repeat the procedure after a few rides just to be on the safe side. I highly doubt the fluid is boiling in the lines but you can take a page from the Multistrada TSB that recommends Motul RBF600 (might be another brand) high temp brake fluid for their rear brake issue.

I don't know what Ducati's problem is with hydraulics. I get air in my Multistrada clutch line as well and have to burp it every 1500 miles or so. The rear brake has also been a problem until I just changed everything out. I have noticed Ducati went from 11mm to 13mm on the rear master cylinder. I think they did on the new Monster as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the response quito. More questions, if thats OK:

so...if the OEMs are braided, what value in going to HEL?
and... Im interested in the modification you made beyond copying the OEM lines. Are you able to post a copy of the specs that you made up?

When you say the rear is fixed, you mean by changing out the lines? Ironically, the OEM lines are all that is left of the rear system on my bike from when I bought it
 

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what value in going to HEL? I installed bars with a slightly longer pullback and angle to put my wrists in a neutral position. The change in bar dimensions, including a slight height increase, required longer lines. I changed out the others for aesthetics as I decided on another color. I don't believe there to be a performance advantage over stock but that's just opinion.

The fix for the Multistrada was new (upgraded) caliper, Braketech Axis Iron Rotor, upgraded pads that play nicely with the iron rotors, 13mm master (original is 11mm, new Multistrada's use 13mm), heat shield for master, heat shielding tubing over the reservoir line, and adjustable DP rear set. Completely over the top but the rear brake has never been an issue since and it's very nice to have some rear brake power as I frequently ride two up.

In hindsight, I think the 13mm master was the biggest improvement. Many warned me that the feel would be more wooden and hard to modulate. I didn't notice anything but a stronger rear brake more to my liking. The fact that Ducati upsized their rear master vindicates my decision. I'm making the same component upgrades to my Monster.

The "specs" are nothing more than a sketch of the brake line I needed that I provided HEL. I matched the stock fitting length and angle from the HEL website and just adjusted the length. I had the bent wire support bracket for the rear caliper line transferred over. One minor issue I came across is where Ducati has a rubber barrel slipped over the flexible brake line to protect it under a clamp. The HEL line is larger in diameter and the only grommet they offered would not fit under the clamp. I slit the barrel length wise and removed a pie shaped piece along the length to effectively reduce the diameter. I placed the open end of the barrel opposite the clamp opening. The barrels placed over the smaller diameter steel tube sections are not necessary as the flexible lines with a larger diameter fit nicely into the existing tie downs.

FWIW the gentleman who rebuilt my engine at the Ducshop said he gets about two bikes a week that have the soft rear brake and require bleeding. I wish I could point to one item and say that's the culprit. Why is it that my HP4 never has these problems? Same basic parts. Further away from the engine so less heat? That was an underlying thread to the Multistrada's problem. If it's just the line to the caliper that you want to replace to rule that out my opinion would be to replace with stock so you don't have to worry about the hanger or figuring length. Some extra length is needed when changing from lines with sections of solid tubing to all flexible line as the bend radius is larger with the flex line.
 
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