[erisdoogan]

Hi All,

I live in Turkey and spent s..load of time to get a problem fixed, haven't been successful so far.

I wanted to share it here, hoping someone could lead me in the right direction.

The problem is, the bike won't accelerate in any gear if more than throttle is applied more than 25% or maybe just 10%

The engine will just make a weird noise like its being strangled like fuel or air is not coming and ignition is not being made the way it should be and bike vibrates like hell.
When you turn of the throttle and start applying the throttle very very slowly, it won't do this till you reach a certain amount of throttle.

I have disabled all safety features (ABS, Traction etc) and the problem is still there.

Changes modes, no luck.

No ABS or DTC lights flash when this happens.

The bikes goes up till 130 kmh and through all gears without a hitch if you apply a very gentle amount of throttle (havent tried going above this)

But if you open up the throttle just a tad more, not even quarter of the throttle, it will do this regardless of the speed, even around 40kmh - 50kmh.

I got my air filter replaced, spark plugs replaced @ 25K
(bike is at 28K now )
Got the fuel injection system out took it to a bosch car service and got it cleaned at 25K
Got fuel from nowhere but shell.

The problem disappeared on its own for a while, no problems between 25.000Km - 27.800Km on the odometer.
Now it's around 28 but the problem is back and won't disappear.

I have the stock exhaust, bike is not giving any error codes (not now, not before)

When I start up the bike, the exup check sound can be heard clearly, but I have not removed the black aluminum cover on the stock exhaust and so haven't visually examined the movement of the exup valve.

Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

 

[DaveK]

Hi All,

I live in Turkey and spent s..load of time to get a problem fixed, haven't been successful so far.

I wanted to share it here, hoping someone could lead me in the right direction.

The problem is, the bike won't accelerate in any gear if more than throttle is applied more than 25% or maybe just 10%

The engine will just make a weird noise like its being strangled like fuel or air is not coming and ignition is not being made the way it should be and bike vibrates like hell.
When you turn of the throttle and start applying the throttle very very slowly, it won't do this till you reach a certain amount of throttle.

I have disabled all safety features (ABS, Traction etc) and the problem is still there.

Changes modes, no luck.

No ABS or DTC lights flash when this happens.

The bikes goes up till 130 kmh and through all gears without a hitch if you apply a very gentle amount of throttle (havent tried going above this)

But if you open up the throttle just a tad more, not even quarter of the throttle, it will do this regardless of the speed, even around 40kmh - 50kmh.

I got my air filter replaced, spark plugs replaced @ 25K
(bike is at 28K now )
Got the fuel injection system out took it to a bosch car service and got it cleaned at 25K
Got fuel from nowhere but shell.

The problem disappeared on its own for a while, no problems between 25.000Km - 27.800Km on the odometer.
Now it's around 28 but the problem is back and won't disappear.

I have the stock exhaust, bike is not giving any error codes (not now, not before)

When I start up the bike, the exup check sound can be heard clearly, but I have not removed the black aluminum cover on the stock exhaust and so haven't visually examined the movement of the exup valve.

Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like it's in limp home mode... you don't have an SES light?

 

[AleksK]

Do check the movement of the exup valve. It may be stacked and does not open fully. If so - don't lubricate...remove it.

 

[DaveK]

the other issue could be the throttle position sensor (in the grip)... though that should throw a code.

 

[erisdoogan]

Thanks a bunch, I will check those and will definitely update this topic.

 

[iamzombie]

Bad fuel?

 

[Piscatory_6]

Sound like the exhaust flapper valve stuck about half way open or closed-however you wish to look at it. My 2014 did that, was a dog after 5k rpm. Remove muffler and check position of valve and freedom of movement.

 

[erisdoogan]

Hi All,
I had some time today, removed the black aluminum cover on the exhaust silencer, which exposed the exup valve and the wire that turns it.

When I turned the ignition on, the sound from the servo motor was there, as usual, and the wire moved, but the wire was not able to move the valve that controls the flap.

Then I removed the silencer and was able to see the "FLAP" inside the CAT, it was stuck in a closed position.

I was able to open it with my fingers, not super tight, but I don't think the pull strength of the wire coming from the servo, will be enough to move that flap or the valve on top.

Keeping it in open position I rode the bike, it was fantastic no problems, so my problems are definitely exup related.

Used some WD40, kerosene and a toothbrush to clean up the valve and the flap, wasn't that much rusty or corroded actually, at least not visually, but still too tight to move.

No matter what I did, the servo motor and the wire is not able to move the flap inside or the valve on top of it.

I called my service, he told me he can dismantle the flap and the valve from the cat, clean everything in that area, said that could fix.

This is the cheapest option I have, the bike will stay original, so no problems when selling it or getting it checked for emissions etc.

If cleaning does not work though, what would be my other options?

1) I could move the flap by hand to open position and it will never close, as I disconnect the wire from the valve.
I will keep the flaps, the valve the servo, the wire and all, just disconnect the wire from the valve and let the wire move freely somewhere safe around the bike.
Maybe put it inside a PVC tube and zip tie to the frame?
No cost here and the bike stays original.
The servo will be on the bike so I don't think it will cause an error light on the dash, right?
Will this damage the servo with the wire free to move?
And will this cause an error light?
The flap in the CAT will always stay open so I will probably give away from bottom end stuff but that's ok by me.

2) Even if the option above gives me an error code, I could keep or remove the servo motor and use a servo eliminator or Duc EE from healtech or vizi-tech.
So 50 bucks expense at the worst case, with this option, gets me out of this situation.

Will these two options work as mentioned?

I know that my other options are;

3) I could get a mid-pipe canceling the CAT, one compatible with the stock silencer, get Duc.EE
4) I could get a full exhaust system, get Duc.EE

These two options 3 and 4, I want to avoid.
But just in case I decide to do them, can I keep the servo and it's cable on the bike, will it give an error light, will keeping them on the bike damage them?

Many thanks in advance,

 

[erisdoogan]

Do check the movement of the exup valve. It may be stacked and does not open fully. If so - don't lubricate...remove it.

I couldn't resist the temptation of a can of WD40 looking at me sir, tried to clean it, but no luck anyways

 

[erisdoogan]

Sounds like it's in limp home mode... you don't have an SES light?

No lights ever.

 

[erisdoogan]

the other issue could be the throttle position sensor (in the grip)... though that should throw a code.

After I removed the silencer, disconnected the wire from the valve and set the valve to open position, the bike was running as it should sir.

So I think nothing wrong in the grip.

But now that you have said, you have given me 1 more the thing to worry about

I am definitely selling this bike!

I have done 450K so far in 19 years.

The last bike was a tracer 700, did 77K in 2 yrs, never had any problems whatsoever, oil + filters + tyres + chain, thats it.

Did 50K each on a Super Tenere and GSA 2011 with ESA, no problems (Not even on the beemer)

Going further back, I always had Japanese bikes.

Never had my rear brakes fail due to heat from the CAT and have to spend hours every 2-3K to bleed rear brake.
Never had to look for special brake hydraulics with higher wet boiling points, I didn'T even know it existed (Castrol SRF React Racing, like I needed that information)
Never had my Clutch Master Cyl's piston fail having to order one from Brembo italy as Ducati "don't have a service kit" accoridng to distributor here.
Or have clutch slave leak (despite it got changed from recall) and have to order one from UK from Oberon.
Never ever had any clutch-related problems on any bike.
Now the exhaust exup problem.
On top of that, I can face other problems, like the TPS sensor on the grip.
And god knows what else I will be facing, that I do not know atm.

This bike came out of the factory in 2015 and has 28K (kilometers) on the odometer.

What were they thinking

 

[Piscatory_6]

After I removed the silencer, disconnected the wire from the valve and set the valve to open position, the bike was running as it should sir.

So I think nothing wrong in the grip.

But now that you have said, you have given me 1 more the thing to worry about

I am definitely selling this bike!

I have done 450K so far in 19 years.

The last bike was a tracer 700, did 77K in 2 yrs, never had any problems whatsoever, oil + filters + tyres + chain, thats it.

Did 50K each on a Super Tenere and GSA 2011 with ESA, no problems (Not even on the beemer)

Going further back, I always had Japanese bikes.

Never had my rear brakes fail due to heat from the CAT and have to spend hours every 2-3K to bleed rear brake.
Never had to look for special brake hydraulics with higher wet boiling points, I didn'T even know it existed (Castrol SRF React Racing, like I needed that information)
Never had my Clutch Master Cyl's piston fail having to order one from Brembo italy as Ducati "don't have a service kit" accoridng to distributor here.
Or have clutch slave leak (despite it got changed from recall) and have to order one from UK from Oberon.
Never ever had any clutch-related problems on any bike.
Now the exhaust exup problem.
On top of that, I can face other problems, like the TPS sensor on the grip.
And god knows what else I will be facing, that I do not know atm.

This bike came out of the factory in 2015 and has 28K (kilometers) on the odometer.

What were they thinking

You can get a compression spring and thread on the cable end so it keeps tension on the cable so the servo will move through full stroke and hit both limits in the start up test.

 

[iamzombie]

Odd thing is if the flap doesn't move during the exup test, you should have a check engine light.

 

[Siddo]

12 is spot on. Many people did this and I did the same, until I could get my UpMap loaded.

 

[Piscatory_6]

Odd thing is if the flap doesn't move during the exup test, you should have a check engine light.

I never did, dealer found mine stuck open and feed it up. 2 months later it was stuck about half open and still no alarms.

 

[batman137]

WD40 is a good degreaser/gunk remover if the parts are already warm/hot, but not so great when they aren't. I would try some throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush.

 

[Piscatory_6]

I think once it corrodes and sticks it's pretty much hosed and won't rotate freely again. Crappy bushings or shaft, IDK.

 

[erisdoogan]

12 is spot on. Many people did this and I did the same, until I could get my UpMap loaded.

Thanks a bunch, so just to be sure, if I remove the wire from the valve and secure the wire so it can freely move but protected, and keep the servo as is on the bike, I won't get a CEL.
I already am not geting it, despite the valve won't budge (but the cable moves)

Odd thing is if the flap doesn't move during the exup test, you should have a check engine light.

Ask me about it, a bike with such detail in electronics, and it doesn't give an error.
I think it's becauase the servo motor is working - I mean it applies tension to the cable, so that shouldn't be returning a false positive, maybe that's why.

When the flap is fully open, the wire and the valve applies enough force to close it like 70% - but wont fully close! As the flap won't budge after a certain point.
And once the flap is 75% close, the valve and the cable can not generate enough tension to open it - flap stays that way unless you move it by hand.
And again no CEL under any circumstances.

I don't think it's possible (as no one would buy Duc.ee) but could the service have done sth in terms of software to kill that CEL warning so even if servo returns false positive it won't trigger CEL?

You can get a compression spring and thread on the cable end so it keeps tension on the cable so the servo will move through full stroke and hit both limits in the start up test.

I had something in mind, like an 8 millimeter fireproof black pvc, 10 to 15 centimeters long, zip tie to the frame.
Long enough so the wire can move freely but closed on one end to protect from weather conditions.

Let me researh the forum for "compression spring" a screenshot would greatly help

 

[Piscatory_6]

Compression spring is like a shock spring or fork spring. Tension spring is like on your storm door.

 

[Piscatory_6]

I believe the sensors for the exup are on the servo, full open and full closed, so there may be enough slack and stretch in cable to meet those limits. Or the ECU may not care about that, Ducati either, otherwise they would be fixing them or replacing them if critical to operationo of engine.