I've been doing that also. Actually, my technique has been to alternate between using the MittyVac and then pumping the lever. I have a catch bottle on the bleeder nipple so the mess is kept to a minimum.You can also try pulling the lever half-dozen times, then tie it back and crack the bleed nipple at the master quickly. Just be prepared for potential dribble or spray, depending.
The stock ST MC is 12mm. I'm uncertain of the MTS size. However, I have an Oberon slave on it which is a 29mm i.e. larger than the ST OE which I don't recall the size (there's a chart of MC vs Slave sizing here somewhere)Hopefully someone more knowledgeable chimes in here, but my guess would be down to the difference in bore size on the master. If I recall, stock MC's on the ST's were either 12mm or 13mm, where the MTS is 15mm. Is your slave stock?
See my previous comment. I went into this knowing of the difference in MC/SC sizing. That said, the sizing does not affect the bleeding of the system. Ya either get the air out or you don't. Apparently, I'm not getting all the air out.I Must admit, not for a moment did I think the bore sizes might be different.
You never mentioned it and I never asked. It’s just something I felt was a given.. same size equal cylinders.
You misunderstood me. I didn't mean air was leaking via the threads on the bleed nipples, I mean there is air leakage at the MittyVac tube which you put over the nipple (see photo). During bleeding, I would have an 8mm box end wrench on the bleeder screw below the plastic tube so the tube can't go down any lower. I have tried using a zip tie on the tube but that doesn't seem to make the tube seal to the bleed screw any better.to stop air been sucked in around bleed nipples , first clamp small supply tube between clutch resivoir and clutch master cylinder. then remove bleed nipple on slave cylinder. dry nipple threads and apply Teflon plumbers tape . avoid tape on first two threads so no tape goes into system .Do same on master cylinder. Then use miry vac to bleed system .
If by original lever you mean the stock MC, then yes, I have it, but it was being problematic. Which is why I changing to the MTS MC. I'm not following what you mean by "...put as much freeplay..."do you have an original lever to try in it? or put as much freeplay into the one you have as you can.
Thx for the continued input.9 times from 10 if it pumps up to work then goes away until pumped up again.. it is adjustment.. think brake drums on your car.
so your master might be smaller giving better pressure but not enough volume for your slave.
those slaves generally take more volume
Clutch hose is a steel braided line. Although it is most likely original.my mityvac came with a selection of black rubber adaptors for bleed nipples , with the right one selected it's a tight fit on the nipple as other end fits tight into opaque tube from bleeder .
A question is the clutch hose an orignal rubber hose as it maybe well past its use by date. I had a suzuki gsxr 1100 with similar bleeding issues . Orignal hose was a long run and it was expanding. New Hel braded line fixed the issue .
The MTS MC came off a low mileage 2014 MTS Pike's Peak a few yrs ago. The MC hasn't seen much use so one can think the seals are in reasonable condition.As one other member said are the master cylinder seals in good shape . if all else fails you may have to disassemble clutch master cylinder. if clutch hose is not past its use by date.
I used to rebuild Porsche Brembo calipers. Have likely rebuild at least 100 sets. I have NEVER seen anything like what you are showing before. Seriously ugly! I hope my SC doesn't look like that.
I will try this also. I have several actions/techniques to try it seems. I WILL get this operating correctly.BMW S1000RR manual states for bleeding front calipers , is to first remove caliper with brake hose connected , then clean pistions of road grime . Then push pistions in and place a wooden block to keep the pistions in and bleed brake capiler. Have you tried bleeding nipple on MC with mityvac after bleeding SC
Up until 2-3 months ago when this clutch started going sideways, I was having no issues with the stock MC and either the OE or Oberon SC. Then, as I've laid out in detail in previous replies, things started getting weird.Assuming that you're using fresh crush washers and good, fresh fluid with each install, then the line would be most suspect.
FWIW, the MTS masters have had mixed reviews and many folks, including myself, have had issues with them needing constant bleeding. Conversely, I've had zero issues with the (still!) original 23-year old master and slave on my ST2. Though I did replace the line when I upgraded the brake lines ('99 ST's were all rubber lines).
Given the issues I've had with my MTS clutch and given the unknown condition of the used MTS master, I'd be inclined to go with a new OEM ST assembly.
Regardless, I feel your pain, as my MTS clutch has been giving me grief for a while now.
No I don't have a shake the bottle habit. (Not that such an action would actually have any effect on brake fluid)You don’t have a bad ‘shake the bottle’ habit do you?
Like when you pick up a milk bottle, walk to the table and unconsciously shake it.
that’s bad for brake fluid.. but seen people do it.