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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry about the noob questions, but when I bought the bike (Hypermotard 1100) , it was already heavily modded. So I have never seen stock dry clutch. Briefing;
This one has this Rizoma Pressure Plate and also clutch springs have been changed (don`t know the manufacturer). They are not stainless stee, just black paint coated.
Clutch cover is this DMV half open clutch cover

So the questions. Yesterday I decided to change back stock springs because clutch is pretty stiff.

1. Those afermarket springs had two shims/washer below the bolt as shown in the picture ? I think those are meant to make clutch easier to pull, but does the stock clutch have these ? I mean can i just take them off or does there have to be some washer under the bolt ?
Changed the stock springs and left the washers in, but i didn`t notice any difference in clutch. Can the Rizoma Pressure plate affect to clutch stiffness ? I mean if those washers are suppose to make clutch easier, it would be VERY stiff without the washers.

2. Two of bolts had shims under them. Those were under the bolts that don`t attach the clutch cover (they go through it). They attach clutch side casing.
Wtf is their purpose ? At least they made the bolts too short and only about 2-3mm of thread did tighten. Because of that the bolts had actually tear off that 2-3mm of the thread from engine casing. That couple mm of thread came off with the bolts when I unscrewed them.
Thank god, there is long thread and they still can be torqued. Is 10Nm right for these ?

Whole operation was pretty confusing because all the aftermarket parts. There was six bolts on clutch cover&casing and they were THREE DIFFERENT sizes :D
Two really short ones were obvious, but then there was three long bolts and one that was just a little bit shorter. I had hard time figuring out where the little bit shorter goes. That actually might be previous owners hassle. Because long ones would have been fine in every four point.
 

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Well, I don't have a Tard, but all looks fine.
Keep the washers, and the spacers(you need them both for clearances). Just for fun, leave the two spacers out, put your cover back on, then pull the clutch. Don't start the engine! You'll soon learn why those spacers are there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, I don't have a Tard, but all looks fine.
Keep the washers, and the spacers(you need them both for clearances). Just for fun, leave the two spacers out, put your cover back on, then pull the clutch. Don't start the engine! You'll soon learn why those spacers are there.
You mean the two spacers that come under the two bolts that go straight through the clutch cover ? I really don`t understand why they are there :confused:

Service manual also doesn`t show either one. Not the spacers under the two bolts or any washers under the spring bolts :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
This is my problem with the spacers and I think the original reason why little bit of thread came off with the bolt.

That`s one of the long bolts (70mm) and there is only about 1-2mm space to tighten it. In the picture I just put the spacer in its place and push the bolt in hole. Didn`t tighten it at all. If it was originally tightened just about 2mm to thread, I understand that vibrating etc. might have torn the thread off from the casing.

Now that I´m paranoid about this. Where the one little bit shorter (65mm) bolt goes ? The longer ones are 70mm.
 

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The spacers under springs bolts are necessary only with certain pressure plates where the spring well is not deep enough. If you remove the spacer the plate will not operate properly because springs will be collapsed before full travel of the plate.

Best way to lighten clutch pull is using another slave cylinder (oberon or else).
 

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the spacers under the screws that fit through the cover (and don't hold it on) are not required. those two long screws go through the primary drive cover and hold it to the crankcases. there is no need to remove them. the other two long screws (that hold the cover on) you obviously need to remove to get the cover off. all 4 long screws need to be torqued to 10nm, otherwise you might get an oil weep from the primary drive cover / crankcase join.

if the rubber gasket with the spacers in the holes wasn't fitted, you may need spacers between the clutch cover and primary drive cover on the screws that hold the cover on (all 4 - 2 long, 2 short) as otherwise the basket may hit the cover, or when you pull the clutch lever in the pressure plate (centre piece that moves) may move out and hit the inside of the cover. once stuff hits stuff it gets all scratched up and it's a mess. or worse.

the two spacing washers under the clutch spring caps would be there because the caps supplied look like "1098" style ones which didn't have as much offset as the "pre 1098" ones, which on a "pre 1098" fitment might cause the springs to coil bind (full compress and go solid) before the pressure plate has lifted fully, causing the clutch to not fully disengage, drag, etc. so a generic kit will have washers to cover both options.

the hm1100 i would call a "1098" fitment as i'm pretty sure all the dry clutch 1100 motors used the "1098" clutch and input shaft. if you remove them, and the springs don't coil bind, it will put more preload on the springs and increase the clamping load on the clutch. but it will also increase the lever effort, which you don't want.

hth.
 
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