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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My newly reassembled ST2 is in a no-start condition.It started ttwo days ago and rode a few miles.next day......click,click,click,goes the starter.So i believe it's getting voltage,but maybe weak.The battery sat most all of the last 4 months w/o charging.

I discovered i have an AMMETER function in my Mathesis kit.I'm unsure of what reading we'll like to see from the ammeter.It tells how much the charging system is workin to keep the battery good right?

My trouble,i'm a machinist,not an electrician

I also consider,i may have a parasitic draw of current but doubt that right now.
 

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Mr Leakered
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A fully charged batt will be at 13.3v. It should stay above 10v while cranking. If you see 9v coming up, your batt is weak.

You should see something higher than 13.3v above about 2,500 to 3,000 RPM.

Have a good one.
 

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Check your starter circuit wire connections

You should check each starter wire connection for loose or corroded terminals either of which can cause a no start or slow cranking start.

While you are at it you might want to swap in upgraded wiring which you can get from any one of the vendors. I made my own from #2 guage wire from a marine supply shop and it did make a difference in how quickly the motor cranks and starts. I also replaced the started solenoid at the same time.

You might also want to invest in a battery tender to maintain a full charge, its money well spent.

I'm not an electrician either but I can fake it when needed. I'm in Tiverton, let me know if you need a hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Oh i need a hand alright. My battery was fine.I had near totally dismatled the bike this past Winter for maintainance.The engine got only belts and plugs.THe wiring harness was removed to try and diagnose an occasional loss of power.I removed what appears to have been a kickstand safety bypass.

I installed a fully charged battery today in anticipation of utilising my Mathesis to try and diagnose the "click,click,click" the starter was doing.I HAVE noticed a parasitic drain,in that,when i touch the positive wire to the battery terminal i get a strong SPARK.

I attempted to start it when i got frustrated and held the starter button a few seconds too long.

The wiring harness attached to the kickstand switch FREAKING MELTED!!!! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH M SO MAD!!!!!!!
 

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ouch

That sucks. Sorry to hear that.

I wish I had the time today to help. I sent my number if you want to call.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Absolutely SICK to my stomach over this ST2 condition.the harness is melted on either side of the kickstand
Plug.I'll need to remove the entire harness again to diagnose the issue.Currently wondering if I could have swapped the kickstand plug with another matching nearby.I doubt that.I also wonder about repairing or replacing the harness.

Has anyone replaced one? Are they available?

On the bright side,after many months sitting,my 996 fired up right away and rode great.I need my bagger Waaaaaah!!
 

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Mr Leakered
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If you are just talking about the bit that bolts to the side stand and connects at the harness near the fan, just disconnect it. You can either jumper the connector or short the wires together (I did this). The side stand switch is unless in my opinion. Of course, I'm willing to take full responsibility for my actions.

If it is the rest of the harness, then you may need to dig deeper.

Have a good one.
 

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You might not want or need to remove the entire harness again, maybe the stand switch is the only area that was shorted or somehow connected wrong.

You might want to try to just unplug the kickstand harness and connect an ammeter between the + terminal and the battery and verify there is no other short.

Sorry I can't do it right now but Saturday I'll have an opportunity to see what my bike draws with the key on but motor not running to give you an idea of what to expect for current draw with the kick stand switch unplugged.

I have a 2001 ST4 Ducati manual I could loan you if it would help. I'll read the schematic tonight to see if I can ID what could be pulling power through this harness.

Last thought for now, did you try to plug the bypass harness back in?
 

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FYI- the parasitic drain is typically around 2mA (0.002A). This is most likely the ECU and the clock. I do notice a visible small spark at the battery when re-connecting. Sort of like a surge to charge up a small capacitor. But I've MEASURED 0.002A on my old ST2.

And as Tonered mentioned, the switch is useless (not unless!!). Well, they're helpful for people that "forget".
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I' ve looked a little bit closer today.The harness is melted mostly at the kickstand plug and on the actual harness side is melted up into the heavier sleeving.I don't know which course of action to take...yet.

The plug was proper.i didn't plug it into the wrong socket and don't think that's possible.Nothing close by would fit.It's an AMP connector.I don't know how to disassemble these but recently spent $600 for both AMP and Deutch connector crimping pliers.

I bought this bike used with 9000 miles.Currently at exactly 15000.Strange symptom these past two years.I could ride all day when,out of the blue i may be hard on acceleration(and not) and ALL electrical power would cease for a few seconds up to putting me on the side of the road when a restart always happened.I'd figured a fuelling issue so i've replaced ALL hoses (every last one) in the tank and replaced the filter.

This past winter i removed what really appeared to be a piggyback harness i believe was meant to deactivate the sidestand switch.IT attached to both the sidestand AND neutral switch.Currently the sidestand switch is plugged in just like on my '00 996 Bip.

If i could (CAN I?) i'd REPLACE the harness with a new one.My service manual was downloaded from .NU and the schematic doesn't show the sidestand switch my 996 manual does.

Does anyone know the correct number for the harness? Are they available? Or if money were no object how could i properly diagnose/repair mine?
 

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Mr Leakered
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Mr Leakered
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And as Tonered mentioned, the switch is useless (not unless!!). Well, they're helpful for people that "forget".
Sorry about that. I'm unless with the whole schpelling thang. ;)

BTW, I have seen similar looking side stand switches on other bikes. A Japanese cruiser is coming to my foggy memory. If you really want one, you may not have to go with a Duc part number.

HONDA CB750 F2 Side Stand Switch | eBay

110-55 Ducati ST4 ST4S kick stand sensor side safety switch | eBay

Here's one alternative:
TPO Ducati Kickstand Sidestand Switch ELIMINATOR Kit | eBay

Have a good one.
 

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I bought this bike used with 9000 miles.Currently at exactly 15000.Strange symptom these past two years.I could ride all day when,out of the blue i may be hard on acceleration(and not) and ALL electrical power would cease for a few seconds up to putting me on the side of the road when a restart always happened.
That might be the ignition relay - the yellow one up under the left side front fairing. My '02 ST-2 would randomly shut down like that, but would re-fire promptly. The previous owner thought that it was the ignition switch, and took the switch apart and cleaned it up, which helped for about six months, then it started again. I bought a used switch and key set, but when I plugged them in, it was no go. That's when I discovered that the relay was flaky. That is, it would click and would usually work but sometimes would not. I have replaced it with the NAPA equivalent, and have had no more problems since then.

Good luck.
 

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Tonered,

I did not see any reference to a side stand safety switch in my st4 factory manual and nothing in the schematic in the book. I'll look at what you posted, thanks.

I would guess the safety inhibits at least the starter solenoid until the switch is closed? I had a 1977 Honda F2 up until last year with the same switch as you posted.

When I key on with my ST kickstand down then flip the kickstand up I do hear my fuel pump prime so I guess it also inhibits the fuel pump.

I'm hoping to head over to help Saturday morning, I have some electronic troubleshooting skills dating back to when TVs became hybrids with tubes and those funny little black things stuck into the circuit boards.

If his harness melted, thats a lot of extra current flow and I would be very very hesitant to just turn the key on and press the starter button without more words of wisdom.

Thanks Stick and SwiftFF5, 2 ma is quite a low parasitic drain for the clock and ECU, please keep the info coming. It was 86 degrees here today, there is some riding to get done..

Thanks,

Bob
 

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Yes, Something is really Wrong somewhere. It is just a switch, wires melting is a dead short, not a switch malfunction.
Unplug it and see what melts next. Something is wrong somewhere, you say you rode this thing a day before? With no problems? What did you do in between, must have been Something? Retrace your steps?
 

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Ducxl,

I'll be by Saturday. We can unplug my sidestand switch and do some resistance and power measurements to compare my known good bike to what yours is doing.

My thought is that we unplug your harness and take measurements from both connector sides to ground and power and compare to mine.

I'm thinking either:

1) A ground wire has somehow got unfused battery power applied to it since its not fused its melting.
2) A power wire between battery and the harness before the fuse box has gotten grounded somehow.

I vaguely remember an old timer TV repairman's trick for troubleshooting a shorted out TV was to splice in a lightbulb on one leg of the power cord and it would absorb the current and light up while the TV remained unharmed. When you fixed the short the bulb would go out. I'm not confident this would work in your case though.

See you Saturday.
 
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