[freshmilk]

Battery not charging on Monster 2009

Anyone have experience with Monster battery not charging? If stator diagnosed as OK, regulator replaced, what are the other suspects?

SHORT

• Battery starts at 12.3v and ends 3-4mile ride at 10.5v
• Motorcycle Mechanic (MM) voltage tested stator and OK
• MM recommended replace REGULATOR but battery still not charging
• Rotating through 2 different batteries and both end with low voltage
• Acid battery 18mths & 3 mths old

LONG

• Bike complete shut down at traffic stop and would not start again
• Had it towed
• Figured it was bad battery and bought Li-Ion battery but that died
• Went to mech shop for help and they helped me test with voltage meter
• Stator ruled out as OK and replaced regulator as likely culprit but battery still not charging and voltage reading in the 10s according to bike OSD
• Spark plugs replaced
• Never had issues with bike running until 3 months ago with the shut down
• Installed, pigtail for battery tenderer, front and rear cameras
• Using Noco GENIUS1 to charge batteries. Supports acid, AGM and Li-Ion
• YTX14H-BS 18mth old
• Caltric Agm Battery 3mth old

 

[Elbrice]

I had a regulator burned when running the engine without the battery on an 848. Have you directly checked the regulator’s voltage output with engine running and battery connected?

Is the connector OK, it can also be melted?

 

[chris_f]

Get a voltmeter and start from the beginning, dont assume that anything replaced is good. I have replaced many a defective part out of the box. Test the stator, check all wiring, test R/R output. It can only be one of those two items or a wiring issue.

 

[BOTT]

Charging Loop have only 3 components. A voltmeter set a 20v. Correct meter leads on the bike's battery.

1. Battery: PUSH means Volts. At 12.8v upon static, or bench test shows 12.8v or higher for a well charged battery. A load test of the battery is going to be made by a simple push of the starter motor and the motor's load will show how much PUSH can push over the starter motor... think.

Key on 12.8v show on the meter. Start engine. Load shows at the meter 11.1v drop and starts the engine. Immediately the battery returns to 12.8v. This shows the battery can hold PUSH (volts) with lots of reserve.

2. Voltage/Regulator: Upon startup, 12.8v disappears and now 14.4v now appear at the voltmeter. This shows the VR can control excess voltage and dumps to ground, meeting the 14.4v at idle. If it could not regulate, then you'd see 15 or so excess voltage surface jump to the battery and boil the acid to start smelling, plus bulge the battery case via heat expansion.

3. Stator: All this starting action is to never take your eyes off the meter. You will see the 3 number off each charge component:

A. Battery: The readout of a battery will run like this; 12.8v - 11.1v - 12.8v - 14.4v is a good battery and charging system. 12.6v and below says the batter needs a charge.
B. VR: The readout will be 14.4v and vary up/down. Anything over 14.8v and up shows a bad VR.
C. Stator: The battery will remain a 12.8v and drop from there while riding and then stop eventually. It shows a steady loss as if the stator was unplugged.

Smells like, looks like a stator. Battery needs a charge from a smart charger so it can revive (heat up) the acid, not a trickle type charger to bring it back to 12.8v or higher.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)

 

[freshmilk]

Charging Loop have only 3 components. A voltmeter set a 20v. Correct meter leads on the bike's battery.

1. Battery: PUSH means Volts. At 12.8v upon static, or bench test shows 12.8v or higher for a well charged battery. A load test of the battery is going to be made by a simple push of the starter motor and the motor's load will show how much PUSH can push over the starter motor... think.

Key on 12.8v show on the meter. Start engine. Load shows at the meter 11.1v drop and starts the engine. Immediately the battery returns to 12.8v. This shows the battery can hold PUSH (volts) with lots of reserve.

2. Voltage/Regulator: Upon startup, 12.8v disappears and now 14.4v now appear at the voltmeter. This shows the VR can control excess voltage and dumps to ground, meeting the 14.4v at idle. If it could not regulate, then you'd see 15 or so excess voltage surface jump to the battery and boil the acid to start smelling, plus bulge the battery case via heat expansion.

3. Stator: All this starting action is to never take your eyes off the meter. You will see the 3 number off each charge component:

A. Battery: The readout of a battery will run like this; 12.8v - 11.1v - 12.8v - 14.4v is a good battery and charging system. 12.6v and below says the batter needs a charge.
B. VR: The readout will be 14.4v and vary up/down. Anything over 14.8v and up shows a bad VR.
C. Stator: The battery will remain a 12.8v and drop from there while riding and then stop eventually. It shows a steady loss as if the stator was unplugged.

Smells like, looks like a stator. Battery needs a charge from a smart charger so it can revive (heat up) the acid, not a trickle type charger to bring it back to 12.8v or higher.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)

Thanks for the detailed reply. A lot to work off from this

 

[freshmilk]

Battery not charging on Monster 2009

Anyone have experience with Monster battery not charging? If stator diagnosed as OK, regulator replaced, what are the other suspects?

SHORT

• Battery starts at 12.3v and ends 3-4mile ride at 10.5v
• Motorcycle Mechanic (MM) voltage tested stator and OK
• MM recommended replace REGULATOR but battery still not charging
• Rotating through 2 different batteries and both end with low voltage
• Acid battery 18mths & 3 mths old

LONG

• Bike complete shut down at traffic stop and would not start again
• Had it towed
• Figured it was bad battery and bought Li-Ion battery but that died
• Went to mech shop for help and they helped me test with voltage meter
• Stator ruled out as OK and replaced regulator as likely culprit but battery still not charging and voltage reading in the 10s according to bike OSD
• Spark plugs replaced
• Never had issues with bike running until 3 months ago with the shut down
• Installed, pigtail for battery tenderer, front and rear cameras
• Using Noco GENIUS1 to charge batteries. Supports acid, AGM and Li-Ion
• YTX14H-BS 18mth old
• Caltric Agm Battery 3mth old

For anyone else who has similar issues, turned out to be the regulator.

Bought a new regulator from Amazon for USD25 and now the instrument panel shows 13.8-14.3v.

Thanks to everyone for their input and suggestions