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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so ive been having some issues with my 2013 1199r. ill give as much details as I can and hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. so if I leave the bike on a tender I go out and start it its fine and everything is fine and dandy. however, if its off a tender for more than 8 or so hours. its very difficult to start. I have a 40 minute ride to work everyday, and if i park it. work my 8 hour shift, there had been a couple times I would come out and it would crank over and try to start and then fail, and the battery would just be dead. if I leave it off a tender for more than a couple days. the battery is completely dead to where the dash wont even turn on. now there might be a little evidence to what could be the problem but im not super inclined with fixing these because every other bike ive owned before this was an older jap bike (way less electronics). if its off the tender for a couple hours. and I start it up. 1. it has a very hard time finding neutral (electronically) mechanically I can put it into neutral just fine but the dash will read either first or second. and then when I start riding the gear readings on the dash are funky for a few minutes and then once its warmed up and ive been riding for 15+ minutes the problem goes away. I don't know if that helps narrow down the problem at all but I thought it might. ive never had any issues with it dying mid ride and if I read the voltage of the battery while im riding it always reads 13.8+ so I know its not a stator issue. please help because, ive already replaced the battery thinking that was the issue and it didn't solve anything. please help.
 

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To me it sounds like something is draining the battery. Do you have any aftermarket accessories installed or have you done any electrical mods to the bike? You say you have replaced the battery? Just for kicks it would be good to know the battery voltage when the bike is off and not on the tender. Take measurements at the battery terminals right before you ride, right after you ride, and after the bike has sat for a few hours. This will let you know a few things:
1. The stator/voltage regulator system is charging your battery (which it seems it is)
2. If something is draining your battery
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
To me it sounds like something is draining the battery. Do you have any aftermarket accessories installed or have you done any electrical mods to the bike? You say you have replaced the battery? Just for kicks it would be good to know the battery voltage when the bike is off and not on the tender. Take measurements at the battery terminals right before you ride, right after you ride, and after the bike has sat for a few hours. This will let you know a few things:
1. The stator/voltage regulator system is charging your battery (which it seems it is)
2. If something is draining your battery
I have done that. If I measure right after i ride its at like 13.8. Few hours later its already at like 13.4 ish. And then ill start it and it will barely start. And then it will jump right back up to 13.8 within a minute. So I know something is draining it when its off but I just need to narrow it down to exactly what it could be so im not throwing a bunch of money in parts at it that arent faulty. The only electrical changes that have been made is that i have the batter tender lile tether cable on it for the quick connect for the tender thats pretty much it. From other searching its point towards ecu, imobilizer. But how do I test those components. And why would I be having the gear display issue?
 

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I have done that. If I measure right after i ride its at like 13.8. Few hours later its already at like 13.4 ish. And then ill start it and it will barely start. And then it will jump right back up to 13.8 within a minute. So I know something is draining it when its off but I just need to narrow it down to exactly what it could be so im not throwing a bunch of money in parts at it that arent faulty. The only electrical changes that have been made is that i have the batter tender lile tether cable on it for the quick connect for the tender thats pretty much it. From other searching its point towards ecu, imobilizer. But how do I test those components. And why would I be having the gear display issue?
Sorry for pointing out the obvious. Did the problem start after you installed the battery tender charging cable? My only suggestion would be to remove the tender cable and check the various connectors that could have high current draw like lights, dash, radiator fan, etc. Electrical gremlins are always hard to diagnose.
 

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The standing voltage on a good battery should be around 12.8 volts --(this means bike not running and has been sitting for at least an hour or 2) Just as a test disconnect the battery from the bike--put it on your tender charge over night--in the morning disconnect the tender and walk away for an hour, Now with your hand held volt meter check the voltage--should be around 12.8 v---now before you reconnect the battery to your bike have the battery load tested. if you do these 2 things that will rule the battery out or point to it being a problem. --I have seen brand new batterys that are bad out of the box. ----Also if you have allowed this battery to fully discharge that could damage it as well.
This is somewhere to start you have to have a starting point and this is the simple & easy place to start
 

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Yes start by testing the battery.

Then if it's good next step will be an ampmeter in series with the battery (that means disconnecting the + or ground and plug the ampmeter between).

This will tell you how much current the bike drains. Next pull one fuse at a time and see what happens on current draw, that will help you isolate which circuit drain too much current. Then the electric schematic will be your friend to follow the leads.
 

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Check your grounds and ground connections...bigger wire is your friend...check out the motoelectric kits...great stuff..
Check the wiring connectors coming out of the Rectifier/regulator
if the wire has a green tinge or has black running yp the wire thats a pproblem...replace the wires/connectors
Mike S
1996 900SS
2012 1098S SF
2006 999S
 

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Easiest way to load test the battery is have your meter attached and read the voltage AS you start it, if it drops below 10v it's likely dropped a cell, or in technical terms, Fucked.

Check your wiring, especially where it can chafe, around the steering head, under the seat etc and make a point of looking at the earths making sure they are clean and firmly attached.
Good idea to check the yellow three phase wires coming out of the Alternator cover, the plug may be burnt/melted and that is usually against the frame...
 
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