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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just wrecked my 2k10 SF-S and am confident it'll get totaled out. I hope to pull 13-14k out of it from insurance.

I just found a low mileage 2k10 WHITE SF base model for 10k, mostly stock, good condition. Thinking about buying that and using the extra cash to put on:
Ohlins R/T forks
Ohlins shock
Ohlins s.damper
Quat-D High mount full system
Microtec ECU + dynotune
plus a few other aesthetic goodies.
(yeah I know that is more than 4k)

I'm thinking of an outcome of something that looks similar to [this]. (minus the CF wheels of course)

I want it to be more unique though. I'd rather spend $$ on the above listed stuff before I go replacing the heavier base-model wheels with something aftermarket in a different color. So, why not powdercoat or anodize these wheels???

I had [this] in mind, but in black/white two-tone. I'm thinking [along these lines] (not these spoked wheels obviously)

Another idea was to go solid, but different front-rear colors. Either in the form of either [Red front, Black rear] or White front, Black rear. I really like [this] darker/metallic (anodized?) red color.

I think bronze/gold front and rear wheels would look good on a White SF w/ Ohlins everything.

I would love to paint the frame white or red too, but that's $$$ -- Maybe someday!

Ideas? Comments? Opinions? Can someone convince me that buying a base model and throwing these parts on it is a worse idea than buying a another SF-S? (don't care about DTC and only slightly care about the additional wheel weight)

Lastly, is there any resident photoshop experts who can perhaps bring my vision to life?
 

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Buy a red base, then it's super cheap to paint the body in white while you paint wheels... That way you have the red frame you wanted. (duhhhhh ;-). )


Sent from my iPhone using an App some engineer created and gave to me for free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Buy a red base, then it's super cheap to paint the body in white while you paint wheels... That way you have the red frame you wanted. (duhhhhh ;-). )


Sent from my iPhone using an App some engineer created and gave to me for free.
Good idea! I'll definitely keep that in mind in my search. However, I am not opposed to just not getting the frame color I prefer so long as I get myself a good cheap deal on a base-model, leaving me as much excess cash as possible so I can get all the upgrades I want. That's far more important. I'm liking this white 2k10 base model I found so far. Just 2k miles for $10k. Theres a Red oneI found locally w/ Termis and 5k miles for $11.6k -- Ehh. I'd even consider traveling to pick one up out of state. Anything I need to know buying an out-of-state bike and bringing it to Cali? I plan to rip all forms of smog/emissions control/O2 sensors, etc, off the bike regardless of what I get.
 

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Instead of buying Ohlins go to a competent shop that does suspension work. Have front cartridges put in for your weight, and have the rear shock revalved and resprung, also for your weight.

I know the word Ohlins is magic to a lot if people, but proper setup by a good shop such as Traxxion Dynamics will give you a better handling bike than any stock setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I plan to have the Ohlins gear setup by a proper suspension tuner. You may laugh at this but a lot of my decision to replace the Showa gear with Ohlins, is aesthetic. I want that Ohlins gold color on my bike. Showa stuff looks... bland. lackluster. I know it is still very much a competent suspension setup though. Esp if properly setup.
 

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Instead of buying Ohlins go to a competent shop that does suspension work. Have front cartridges put in for your weight, and have the rear shock revalved and resprung, also for your weight.

I know the word Ohlins is magic to a lot if people, but proper setup by a good shop such as Traxxion Dynamics will give you a better handling bike than any stock setup.
unless they can replicate the Ohlins gold... then it probably won't matter to the OP I suspect. :D

Hey OP, consider that $1000 up front difference, is NOTHING compared to the costs you will incur when you try to take the bike apart to paint frame. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Is it wrong for me to like the look of Ohlins? They are more than necessary for me but I prefer the look of them over Showa and they are indeed superior hardware. I would have just as much or more faith in whatever setup Traxxion Dynamics could come up with, but I do prefer the Ohlins gold bling :) I also like Titanium Nitride (black) coated fork tubes.

Painting the frame is a pipe dream (pun intended). It is absolutely not necessary. It will very likely never happen and I'm not all that upset by that fact.

Right now I am bike-less and I don't like it! I'm also impatient :) Buying a 2k11+ SF-anything will be more expensive and won't get me any more "bang for buck" than buying a low mileage 2k10 SF. I'd rather save the $$ and spend it on aftermarket goodies I listed, suspension and engine tuning.

This is just a hunch but I'd guess I'll probably have me another SF before the end of next month :D
 

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Not to put a damper on the party, but whatcha gonna do if they don't "total" your S?...;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Not to put a damper on the party, but whatcha gonna do if they don't "total" your S?...;)
That would suck. I suppose it would be thoroughly repaired then.

The frame is not tweaked as best I can tell. The entire rear half of the bike is fine. The shop that the bike is at is owned by a friend and he is also interested in purchasing the "wreck" back from insurance. He has every reason to want to see it totaled out, same as me. My insurance agent is also a friend of mine and he says that if damages equal to at least 70% of the appraised value of the bike, they'll total it.

What needs replacing from my visual approximation:
Forks (bent)
Front wheel (possibly bent)
Front CF fender (cracked)
Front rotors (idk caliper damage if any)
Brake lines (damaged side will not hold pressure; un-investigated)
Handlebar
Clutch lever
CRG Arrow mirror x1
Speedymoto frame slider
Fuel tank
Frame? (scratched near LH rearset; superficial scratch, but down to metal)
Rearset and gearshift linkages
LH passenger peg
LH rear blinker

...That is just the damage that I can see. I think this, plus cost of labor to repair will very likely total the bike out. My mechanic is pretty confident of that as well. If I had to repair it and I replaced every one of those things and repainted the frame... I think I might be content too :)
 

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Nothing at all wrong with liking Ohlins gold. Bikes are emotional purchases, and I suspect 95% or more of people on here don't use theirs to the full performance extent... We just like bling baby!
 
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