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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just picked up a brand new used 2002 998, in the best color >:) guy had done all maintenance work himself, was second owner, 9600 miles.

What things should I do maintenance wise before I start riding my new joy?

Belts were last replaced in 2014, since then bike hasn't been ridden much, just started occasionally.

So far I am planning on doing:

New belts
Check valve clearances
Change filter/oil
Flush brake and clutch fluids
Replace front fork oil
New fuel filter
Clean/oil air filters
Re align front forks
Check brake pads
Set up suspension
Check electrical connectors for corrosion/melting

Edit:
Lube throttle cable
Flush radiator fluid
Check chain tension
Check brake pads and rotor thickness

Clean the bike thoroughly!













 

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Yeah the backlash from a loose chain is quite nasty. The lower chain slider got totally eaten away and this is what was left from the upper slider bolt closest to the motor...
So make sure there is not too much horizontal play either.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah the backlash from a loose chain is quite nasty. The lower chain slider got totally eaten away and this is what was left from the upper slider bolt closest to the motor...
So make sure there is not too much horizontal play either.
Damn that's pretty extreme... I will definitely check the chain...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So what's a good upgrade path for a 998?

Not into bling, and I believe the bike has plenty of power, coming off of a S1000RR, which has ridiculous power but not much character... Just another inline 4 IMHO, and it's far too expensive to be just another 4...

70% twisty back roads, 20%track days,10% commuting freeway

I have spent thousands of miles riding the California canyons in LA on a stock 996 in the past, so I am familiar with the handling characteristics. This time around I'd like to do cost effective handing mods to get the most out of the bike.

Started looking into the 27mm offset triple clamps and changing the steering angle to the steeper setting along with an extended swing arm. However some of shazam's posts about loss of stability on bumpy street roads has convinced me otherwise.

Then I started considering upgrading to ohlins forks, but it seems that cartridge inserts may provide better handling for less. Not necessarily ohlins, but I've also heard good things about traxxion dynamics ak20's. But then other posts seems to think that they're really not worth the money unless you're racing. Maybe a ttx rear shock, but is it significantly better than the stock ohlins?

The most positive feedback I've seen is about getting magnesium forged rims. But even here there seem to be significant drawbacks. I do like the looks on the 10 spoke marchesini rims, so perhaps the forged aluminum, but are they worth the minor weight difference?

Maybe the best option is to just have a nice clean stock 998 that I can enjoy... But surely a few mods here or there couldn't hurt.. >:)

Help me spend my hard earned cash on my new baby!
 

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I put OZ forged aluminum rims on mine. Big difference in weight, 8 lbs as compared to previous 12in the rear wheel alone. Makes for better handeling.
 

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...The most positive feedback I've seen is about getting magnesium forged rims. But even here there seem to be significant drawbacks. I do like the looks on the 10 spoke marchesini rims, so perhaps the forged aluminum, but are they worth the minor weight difference?...
The two most cost effective mods I installed on my R were a pair of Marchesini 5 spoke Mg wheels and a Shorai LFX18A1-BS12 Li (LFX18A1-BS12 - Shorai Lithium Batteries) battery. The difference in handling from the stock Al 5 spoke to the Mg's is profound... turn in is almost telepathic now. And you know the joke about the fastest way to lose 10 ugly pounds? Well contrary to the punchline of that joke, it is not cutting off your head... it's replacing the stock Yuasa behemoth with one of these Shorai Lithium units.

After that, if you want to start trading plastic for CF, the underseat tray is a good place to start. The stock one has a molded in place steel insert to distribute the loads from the rear mudguard/license plate/turn signal holder. I got a CM Composit CF tray (CF Underseat Heat Insulation Cover: 748-998) and a TPO Parts Stealth bracket for the plate and turn signals (https://www.tpoparts.com/cat093/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_48&product_id=184). Again, cost effective and cuts pounds, not ounces.




Oh yeah... and for gods sake pick up some clear turn signal lenses and amber bulbs. ;) They retain the classic styling, but the clear lenses make them look much more contemporary IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I put OZ forged aluminum rims on mine. Big difference in weight, 8 lbs as compared to previous 12in the rear wheel alone. Makes for better handeling.
Well I am definitely liking the 10 spoke marchesini rims, but if the OZ forged aluminum rims save that much over stock, and the forged marchesini aluminum rims then I'll have to consider them. They do look quite nice as well
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The two most cost effective mods I installed on my R were a pair of Marchesini 5 spoke Mg wheels and a Shorai LFX18A1-BS12 Li (LFX18A1-BS12 - Shorai Lithium Batteries) battery. The difference in handling from the stock Al 5 spoke to the Mg's is profound... turn in is almost telepathic now. And you know the joke about the fastest way to lose 10 ugly pounds? Well contrary to the punchline of that joke, it is not cutting off your head... it's replacing the stock Yuasa behemoth with one of these Shorai Lithium units.

After that, if you want to start trading plastic for CF, the underseat tray is a good place to start. The stock one has a molded in place steel insert to distribute the loads from the rear mudguard/license plate/turn signal holder. I got a CM Composit CF tray (CF Underseat Heat Insulation Cover: 748-998) and a TPO Parts Stealth bracket for the plate and turn signals (https://www.tpoparts.com/cat093/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_48&product_id=184). Again, cost effective and cuts pounds, not ounces.




Oh yeah... and for gods sake pick up some clear turn signal lenses and amber bulbs. ;) They retain the classic styling, but the clear lenses make them look much more contemporary IMO.
Well I wasn't sure about the shorai lithium batteries, but the weight savings and higher capacity seem like they would be worth the hassle.

The previous owner installed integrated brake lights with turn signals, so now I just need to fix the front turn signals.

I guess adding lightness really is the best path...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The two most cost effective mods I installed on my R were a pair of Marchesini 5 spoke Mg wheels and a Shorai LFX18A1-BS12 Li (LFX18A1-BS12 - Shorai Lithium Batteries) battery. The difference in handling from the stock Al 5 spoke to the Mg's is profound... turn in is almost telepathic now. And you know the joke about the fastest way to lose 10 ugly pounds? Well contrary to the punchline of that joke, it is not cutting off your head... it's replacing the stock Yuasa behemoth with one of these Shorai Lithium units.

After that, if you want to start trading plastic for CF, the underseat tray is a good place to start. The stock one has a molded in place steel insert to distribute the loads from the rear mudguard/license plate/turn signal holder. I got a CM Composit CF tray (CF Underseat Heat Insulation Cover: 748-998) and a TPO Parts Stealth bracket for the plate and turn signals (https://www.tpoparts.com/cat093/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_48&product_id=184). Again, cost effective and cuts pounds, not ounces.




Oh yeah... and for gods sake pick up some clear turn signal lenses and amber bulbs. ;) They retain the classic styling, but the clear lenses make them look much more contemporary IMO.
How did you get your exhaust pipes to have that matte silver color? Looks clean.
 

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How did you get your exhaust pipes to have that matte silver color? Looks clean.
Jet Hot Ceramic Coatings (Performance Enthusiasts ? Jet-Hot High Performance Coatings). It was one of the hardest things I ever had to do... not making the decision to have them coated, but taking a perfectly good, almost new, set of Termi 50mm pipes and tearing them down to prep before sending them off. It was the right choice for me however as I hated cleaning them every off season, only to have them become discolored and spotty again within a month once riding season started again. This will be my 5th season with them and they look pretty much exactly the same today as they did the day I put them on the bike. The pipes were done in 0120 Satin and I had the heel guards done in 2010 Dark Grey as I like the shape of the OEM guards, but wanted them in a contrasting color, as close to the frame/wheel color of the R as was possible.




By the way, you can see that TPO Parts Stealth Bracket I was talking about in the previous post really well in this shot... If you decide to go this route, let me or one of the other guys know and we will hook you up with some of the threads which were specific to having them done. Drilling out those stainless rivets was not fun...
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I will have to get a license plate bracket for it as the previous owner removed everything under there and had the license plate attached to the bottom of the rear subframe... That TPO one does look clean.

I think the previous owner removed a bunch of stuff from under the rear cowl? There's some sort of carbon fiber plate under the seat





It looks like he left the license plate light attached, but it's not illuminating, not a big deal, but I'd rather have a nice license plate holder.
 

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I will have to get a license plate bracket for it as the previous owner removed everything under there and had the license plate attached to the bottom of the rear subframe... That TPO one does look clean.

I think the previous owner removed a bunch of stuff from under the rear cowl? There's some sort of carbon fiber plate under the seat

It looks like he left the license plate light attached, but it's not illuminating, not a big deal, but I'd rather have a nice license plate holder.
That looks like the OEM injection molded plastic underseat tray to me. I think I see the exposed steel plate in those three cylindrical areas where the OEM mud guard bolts on in the pic taken from the rear looking up. Regardless, am almost positive you could go with the TPO Stealth bracket with your current setup, and if you want to run your license plate lamp I designed a 3D Printed bracket that will let you do just that. Unfortunately, it will be a month or so before I get a chance to get this printed again as the last update we made to our software corrupted the last two versions of the design, so I probably have about an hour or so to put in to get it back to where it needs to be. If you are interested, let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That looks like the OEM injection molded plastic underseat tray to me. I think I see the exposed steel plate in those three cylindrical areas where the OEM mud guard bolts on in the pic taken from the rear looking up. Regardless, am almost positive you could go with the TPO Stealth bracket with your current setup, and if you want to run your license plate lamp I designed a 3D Printed bracket that will let you do just that. Unfortunately, it will be a month or so before I get a chance to get this printed again as the last update we made to our software corrupted the last two versions of the design, so I probably have about an hour or so to put in to get it back to where it needs to be. If you are interested, let me know.
Is the steel plate embedded in the injection molded under seat tray? I couldn't find the plate you're referring to





No worries man, I actually have the license plate light attached to some sort of bracket that's holding the license plate. It looks like I should be able to attach it to the TPO license plate frame. I'll try replacing the bulb and see if it works. The 3d printed option looks pretty cool though. I actually use Solidworks every day doing design work, no 3d printer at my company though
 

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Is the steel plate embedded in the injection molded under seat tray? I couldn't find the plate you're referring to...
Yeah... it is molded in place. Here is a good shot of the CM Composit CF tray and the routing of the cables for the ECU and relays... of particular note in this pic are the two relays which for some reason are missing on yours. Had to have been relocated somewhere... but where.





No worries man, I actually have the license plate light attached to some sort of bracket that's holding the license plate. It looks like I should be able to attach it to the TPO license plate frame. I'll try replacing the bulb and see if it works. The 3d printed option looks pretty cool though. I actually use Solidworks every day doing design work, no 3d printer at my company though
I work for Autodesk so it's not a big deal... am going to be making a couple of updated brackets for myself and another member of this forum so if you want one let me know.
 

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I have a stock license plate bracket and fender eliminater one as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah... it is molded in place. Here is a good shot of the CM Composit CF tray and the routing of the cables for the ECU and relays... of particular note in this pic are the two relays which for some reason are missing on yours. Had to have been relocated somewhere... but where.







I work for Autodesk so it's not a big deal... am going to be making a couple of updated brackets for myself and another member of this forum so if you want one let me know.
Hey prophet, so I've been working on the bike, and everything seems to be working, but what are those two relays for? I don't see them anywhere. The rear brake light and turn signals had been replaced by an LED integrated unit, if that means anything.
 
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