[SFHobbles]

Bazzaz Z-AFM user/tuner here. To be clear, I am no "real" tuner. I'm an IT guy

The Z-AFM will not do *all* the work. It will get you pretty close in my opinion, but you will likely still need to fiddle with the map to get it just right. I set my target AFR at all throttle positions under 5,000RPM to 12.8:1, and 13.2:1 above that. I'm experimenting with running even an even lower 12.5:1 under 4,000RPM to help with that ugly 3,000-5,000RPM range we all know and hate. I've never ridden on or with another properly tuned SF, so I cannot speak to how good mine is, BUT, It is at least 90% better than what it was.

The Z-AFM does not modify under 5% throttle openings (idk why) automatically, so I had to basically manually plug in % values which is mostly what fixed the 0-5% steady pace surging.

Also, i'm of the opinion that while yes, one can definitely tune this on a dyno, I fail to see how it would be better than tuning your bike at speed, say on a track for instance. On the dyno there is no way for you effectively get the intake air velocity with blowers. In fact, just about ALL of the conditions will be different and in my opinion less ideal than tuning when and where the bike will be run. Just my 2c.

EDIT: This is how she's running:

 

[SFHobbles]

I think he means autotune works well if you are an expert tuner.


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Lets assume one doesn't have access to a proper tuner/dyno. Having that auto tuner and using it per the instructions, ideally on a race track or even doing "dangerous" (and illegal) freeway pulls is far better than purchasing a device you can only manually tune (if you have the pre-requisite knowledge and experience) or have to rely on a tune that was created on/for a different bike in a different environment (elevation/air density, temperature, humidity, mods, miles, engine health, etc).

There are many options one may take, but personally I think having the Bazzaz (et. al.) with the Auto tuner effectively simplifies and brings home this capability for us weekend warriors and garage tinkerers. It's not perfect, but its damn good and builds you a solid tune.

EDIT: I was able to build pretty solid tunes where the auto tuner "learned" an adjustment for 95% of its observable TPS and RPM range simply by doing a few WOT 2nd,3rd,4th gear pulls on the freeway and some canyon riding. After the auto-tuner worked its magic, I then manually filled in the 0% throttle range across the 2,000-6,000 RPM range and then "smoothed" that with the 5 and 10% fields. I had great results!

 

[SFHobbles]

Finally, a comment on the earliest posts in this thread;
AFR targets richer than 13.5 at light loads are really bad for sooting the plugs and plugging the sensor. Your engine doesn't make enough heat at light loads to burn the soot.

Good to know. This makes sense.

Also, Bazzaz clearly recommends to do your tuning and remove its wideband O2 to avoid it getting worn out (~80hrs est.) and becoming less accurate. My bike seems to be most happy at or under 13:1 with regard to being smooth, especially down low/light load. Obviously running too rich will foul plugs, but I didn't know anything 12-13:1 was risking that outcome. Bike stinks but doesn't smoke. I'll try to be a little less liberal with the fuel at 0-5-10% TPS.