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Anyone regret +2 on rear sprocket 2015 Multi?

4K views 44 replies 16 participants last post by  HRCsp2 
#1 ·
Any potential downside I should be aware of as I consider adding a couple teeth to the rear for a little more zip?
 
#2 ·
More wear on the rear tire and on the rear sprocket as well. You will also loose top speed, if that is important to you.

I went a bit extreme with -1 on front and +2 on rear (14/42 set on carpimoto.it) along with a full termi exhaust and race mapping. Can’t imagine going back to stock settings.

One mechanic also told me recently that the -1 on front induces wear on the swing arm because the lower diameter of the sprocket means the chain will rub against it.
 
#3 ·
Great feedback, thanks Bogdan

More wear on the rear tire and on the rear sprocket as well. You will also loose top speed, if that is important to you.

I went a bit extreme with -1 on front and +2 on rear (14/42 set on carpimoto.it) along with a full termi exhaust and race mapping. Can’t imagine going back to stock settings.

One mechanic also told me recently that the -1 on front induces wear on the swing arm because the lower diameter of the sprocket means the chain will rub against it.
 
#5 ·
I'm assuming because the acceleration forces will be stronger, causing the tire to wear faster. Essentially more intense acceleration.
 
#7 ·
Many smarter, better riders than me is this forum. I strongly considered their advice about sprocket changes. Then I realized I'm just an old guy that doesn't go off road or do track days and enjoys the 4/5 RPM range and cruising at 70mph or so. Sure, I get cocky and touch 6/7 RPM occasionally but not often. I guess Bologna had old slow guys like me in mind when they selected the sprockets.
 
#10 ·
I went -1/+2... definitely didn't regret it but chain wear increased. I did go back to stock and I think on next chain I'm going to go with 0/+2 or +3.
 
#15 ·
I have a 14 on the front and 41 on the rear. I have 18,000 miles on my current chain(DID X ring) and Sprocket Center sprockets with almost no visible wear. I also get around 5,000 miles out of my rear Scorpion Trail 2 tires. I totally agree with those who have stated that is all about how aggressively you ride.
 
#16 ·
Wellcome to the Multi forum Laker213(y). I put a 2 tooth larger sprocket and a quick change carrier on my 2010 1200 multi, and it made it more rideable around town, and it would still pull 245kph on the open road. Its a very good mod and doesn't under gear the big twin, its perfect also for tight back roads and gravel.
 
#17 ·
Thanks buddy, good to see you! I’m definitely getting this done soon because I’m itching to do something. Unfortunately for my hobbies fund, I don’t have your good sense and will be ordering lighter wheels soon too.
 
#21 ·
Couple of things here: There's no downside aside from a theoretical lower mpg. However you're missing the point of the benefits in going +2R.
Yes, you'll get more acceleration but the greatest benefit is snail speed management where you won't have to slip the clutch as often.
Myth: You will lose some top end.
Wrong. The MTS stock gearing will not reach red-line in top gear. Consequently, +2R will achieve the same top speed albeit at a higher RPM.
 
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#27 ·
I guess I am too obtuse to understand the answers to my question unless the ECU limits speed and the limit can still be achieved with +2R. Otherwise it would seem that +2R has to reduce top end.
 
#30 · (Edited)
The bike is limited by drag and the lack of power to reach red-line, not by the ECU.
If the bike could reach red-line with the stock gearing, a +2R would result in a slower top speed.
But that's not the case. There's some upside RPM left on the table.
More RPM = More Speed
More RPM = More Power as the powerband of the Multi is pretty much linear up to red-line.
Thus, a +2R can capture some of that upside RPM.

Honestly, you'll never ride that fast anyways. Moreover, the benefit of a +2R is in Stop-N-Go traffic or other snail-speed riding situations.
Your hand and clutch will love you for it.
 
#32 ·
All of the "reduce top end" replies are funny. Who in the flying f*ck cares if you can only go 155mph instead of 158mph? How often are any of us/you actually hitting top speed.

On the flip side, every single time you ride the bike, you have to manage the chug-a-lug at very low speed.
Ok, pat yourself on the back for belittling questions. I don't ride at 90 much less 155mph. I ask to understand the mechanics. I don't have a problem with chug-a-lug, maybe your skills could use some improvement in that regard.
 
#34 ·
As my P.S. to this thread topic, +2R is the best mod for the price, second only to throttle spacers for the 1260 (not required on the 1200).
This is my third Ducati and they're all geared too long. I wasn't going to endure 15,000 kms thus I had the rear sprocket (and chain) swapped at the first 1,000 km service.
Regrets? Hell no.
 
#35 ·
At the risk of rekindling an eternal gear-head slap fight, I have to point something out.

Taller gears will not make your motorcycle accelerate faster, in any real, practical sense. It will make it feel like it accelerates faster, which is a quality many people value. But it'll never show up on a timeslip.

Your Multistrada already generates enough mechanical leverage in 1st gear to overpower the chassis and pull the front wheel in the air. It literally cannot accelerate faster, short of strapping a rocket to the topcase. So lower geared vs. standard geared, in 1st gear, otherwise same bike, the standard geared bike is in front at the shift point, because 1st gear lasts longer with taller gears. That's the only thing that matters from a mathematical perspective; we can remove rate of acceleration from the equation, the bike can already accelerate at it's maximum theoretical rate, with standard gears. Lower gear can't change that.

As we move up the gears, the ratio difference created by gearing obviously increases proportionally. So the geared bike is in 2nd less time, into 3rd faster, out of 3rd faster, etc. There is a decades old, persistent myth that this running through the gears faster, translates into faster acceleration of the vehicle. The problem is that it's your tires, not your engine or transmission, that accelerates your motorcycle, and by reducing your gear ratio, you are reducing the distance you tires can move the bike, for any given gear.

There are specific circumstances where gears can increase acceleration, but none of them involve a vehicle that can overpower it's chassis and pull a power wheelie in 1st gear, unmodified.

That said, power wheelies are fun, and if you like having fun, by all means, change your gear ratio and wheelie into the sunset.
 
#43 · (Edited)
Actually making the bike lighter impacts mainly acceleration. It has no significant impact on top speed.
Air drag on the other hand has a huge impact on top speed. The faster you go, the more impact the wind resistance has.

At a certain speed, the engine simply hasn’t enough power to battle the wind resistance.

Sites like gearing commander, indicate the theoretical top speed based on the gearing but not considering drag.
 
#44 ·
Actually making the bike lighter impact mainly acceleration. It has no significant impact on acceleration.
Air drag on the other hand has a huge impact on top speed. The faster you go, the more impact the wind resistance has.

At a certain speed, the engine simply hasn’t enough power to battle the wind resistance.

Sites like gearing commander, indicate the theoretical top speed based on the gearing but not considering drag.
Bingo 100% ^^^^ gearing commander speeds are always assumed at redline (the RPM ceiling). Drag limits the Multi from reaching redline with the stock gearing.
Not my intention bring the chicken or the egg thing into the thread but:
More RPM = More HP
More HP = More RPM (up to redline)
That extra HP or extra RPM (whichever) gives the bike a few extra MPH because there's some upside RPM to be taken before reaching redline.
 
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