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Any potential downside I should be aware of as I consider adding a couple teeth to the rear for a little more zip?
Couple of things here: There's no downside aside from a theoretical lower mpg. However you're missing the point of the benefits in going +2R.
Yes, you'll get more acceleration but the greatest benefit is snail speed management where you won't have to slip the clutch as often.
Myth: You will lose some top end.
Wrong. The MTS stock gearing will not reach red-line in top gear. Consequently, +2R will achieve the same top speed albeit at a higher RPM.
 
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The MTS stock gearing will not reach red-line in top gear. Consequently, +2R will achieve the same top speed albeit at a higher RPM.
Interesting. What limits redline on stock gearing and why would the same limit not apply to +2R?
 

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Interesting. What limits redline on stock gearing and why would the same limit not apply to +2R?
As much HP as it has, it's not enough to push the bike to red-line in sixth.
With +2R, the engine's rpm is closer to it's maximum power band.
 
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Couple of things here: There's no downside aside from a theoretical lower mpg. However you're missing the point of the benefits in going +2R.
Yes, you'll get more acceleration but the greatest benefit is snail speed management where you won't have to slip the clutch as often.
Myth: You will lose some top end.
Wrong. The MTS stock gearing will not reach red-line in top gear. Consequently, +2R will achieve the same top speed albeit at a higher RPM.
How much of a difference in slow speed stuff would it make? I commute a lot in heavy traffic, and I don't even want to think about how much faster than the average Ducati rider I'm wearing my clutch out.
 

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How much of a difference in slow speed stuff would it make? I commute a lot in heavy traffic, and I don't even want to think about how much faster than the average Ducati rider I'm wearing my clutch out.
I cant quantify the difference in RPM terms without plugging-it into Gearing Commander or a similar program.
Anecdotally, I'm not ready to say that it's as much as dropping down a gear but it's significantly noticeable.
 

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Interesting. What limits redline on stock gearing and why would the same limit not apply to +2R?
Highway tested my 2020 1260 GT with the sprocket mod at -1 on the front and +2 on rear: max top speed:
261 kmph with engine RPM in the mid orange zone, but could not hold it consistently, just for a few seconds.

A more reasonable and achievable top speed has been 250-255 kmph, with RPM below orange zone.
 

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I guess I am too obtuse to understand the answers to my question unless the ECU limits speed and the limit can still be achieved with +2R. Otherwise it would seem that +2R has to reduce top end.
 

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How much of a difference in slow speed stuff would it make? I commute a lot in heavy traffic, and I don't even want to think about how much faster than the average Ducati rider I'm wearing my clutch out.
Significant difference. There is no downside aside from maybe 1-2% hit on gas mileage.
 

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All of the "reduce top end" replies are funny. Who in the flying f*ck cares if you can only go 155mph instead of 158mph? How often are any of us/you actually hitting top speed.

On the flip side, every single time you ride the bike, you have to manage the chug-a-lug at very low speed.
 

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I guess I am too obtuse to understand the answers to my question unless the ECU limits speed and the limit can still be achieved with +2R. Otherwise it would seem that +2R has to reduce top end.
The bike is limited by drag and the lack of power to reach red-line, not by the ECU.
If the bike could reach red-line with the stock gearing, a +2R would result in a slower top speed.
But that's not the case. There's some upside RPM left on the table.
More RPM = More Speed
More RPM = More Power as the powerband of the Multi is pretty much linear up to red-line.
Thus, a +2R can capture some of that upside RPM.

Honestly, you'll never ride that fast anyways. Moreover, the benefit of a +2R is in Stop-N-Go traffic or other snail-speed riding situations.
Your hand and clutch will love you for it.
 

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All of the "reduce top end" replies are funny. Who in the flying f*ck cares if you can only go 155mph instead of 158mph? How often are any of us/you actually hitting top speed.

On the flip side, every single time you ride the bike, you have to manage the chug-a-lug at very low speed.
Ok, pat yourself on the back for belittling questions. I don't ride at 90 much less 155mph. I ask to understand the mechanics. I don't have a problem with chug-a-lug, maybe your skills could use some improvement in that regard.
 

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The bike is limited by drag and the lack of power to reach red-line, not by the ECU.
If the bike could reach red-line with the stock gearing, a +2R would result in a slower top speed.
But that's not the case. There's some upside RPM left on the table.
More RPM = More Speed
More RPM = More Power as the powerband of the Multi is pretty much linear up to red-line.
Thus, a +2R can capture some of that upside RPM.

Honestly, you'll never ride that fast anyways. Moreover, the benefit of a +2R is in Stop-N-Go traffic or other snail-speed riding situations.
Your hand and clutch will love you for it.
Thank you. I am not a fast rider. Simply wanted to understand the mechanics.
 

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As my P.S. to this thread topic, +2R is the best mod for the price, second only to throttle spacers for the 1260 (not required on the 1200).
This is my third Ducati and they're all geared too long. I wasn't going to endure 15,000 kms thus I had the rear sprocket (and chain) swapped at the first 1,000 km service.
Regrets? Hell no.
 

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At the risk of rekindling an eternal gear-head slap fight, I have to point something out.

Taller gears will not make your motorcycle accelerate faster, in any real, practical sense. It will make it feel like it accelerates faster, which is a quality many people value. But it'll never show up on a timeslip.

Your Multistrada already generates enough mechanical leverage in 1st gear to overpower the chassis and pull the front wheel in the air. It literally cannot accelerate faster, short of strapping a rocket to the topcase. So lower geared vs. standard geared, in 1st gear, otherwise same bike, the standard geared bike is in front at the shift point, because 1st gear lasts longer with taller gears. That's the only thing that matters from a mathematical perspective; we can remove rate of acceleration from the equation, the bike can already accelerate at it's maximum theoretical rate, with standard gears. Lower gear can't change that.

As we move up the gears, the ratio difference created by gearing obviously increases proportionally. So the geared bike is in 2nd less time, into 3rd faster, out of 3rd faster, etc. There is a decades old, persistent myth that this running through the gears faster, translates into faster acceleration of the vehicle. The problem is that it's your tires, not your engine or transmission, that accelerates your motorcycle, and by reducing your gear ratio, you are reducing the distance you tires can move the bike, for any given gear.

There are specific circumstances where gears can increase acceleration, but none of them involve a vehicle that can overpower it's chassis and pull a power wheelie in 1st gear, unmodified.

That said, power wheelies are fun, and if you like having fun, by all means, change your gear ratio and wheelie into the sunset.
 

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I guess I am too obtuse to understand the answers to my question unless the ECU limits speed and the limit can still be achieved with +2R. Otherwise it would seem that +2R has to reduce top end.
You're looking at it logically which is fine, but you're missing a couple of factors.
While in theory lowering the overall gearing will result in a lower top speed that's only valid if the bike is actually capable of achieving that top speed in the first place.
The bike makes a certain amount of power, 160hp and the factory gear ratios are calculated to make the bike as useable as possible, not necessarily able to reach redline in top gear.
Once you accept that your gearbox is designed around multiple riders, roads, terrains, demands etc and that the spread of the gear ratios is for emissions, consumption and tank range and not built to exploit acceleration to maximum RPM in all gears, it's easier to accept that reaching maximum RPM in top is not only nearly impossible on any road bike but also completely pointless.
It's also worth noting that the typically tall gearing supplied std is mostly to keep the bike quieter at the prescribed RPM for ride by noise tests, Road bikes are a compromise, always have been, but these days with more and more stringent emissions and noise restrictions it's even more so.
Adding 2 teeth to the rear sprocket on almost any road bike will be an improvement, not just a multi, when i bought my 888 in the 90's it was the second mod i made, went from 37 to 39 on the rear, never used anything else since, it's perfect.
 

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You're looking at it logically which is fine, but you're missing a couple of factors.
While in theory lowering the overall gearing will result in a lower top speed that's only valid if the bike is actually capable of achieving that top speed in the first place.
The bike makes a certain amount of power, 160hp and the factory gear ratios are calculated to make the bike as useable as possible, not necessarily able to reach redline in top gear.
Once you accept that your gearbox is designed around multiple riders, roads, terrains, demands etc and that the spread of the gear ratios is for emissions, consumption and tank range and not built to exploit acceleration to maximum RPM in all gears, it's easier to accept that reaching maximum RPM in top is not only nearly impossible on any road bike but also completely pointless.
It's also worth noting that the typically tall gearing supplied std is mostly to keep the bike quieter at the prescribed RPM for ride by noise tests, Road bikes are a compromise, always have been, but these days with more and more stringent emissions and noise restrictions it's even more so.
Adding 2 teeth to the rear sprocket on almost any road bike will be an improvement, not just a multi, when i bought my 888 in the 90's it was the second mod i made, went from 37 to 39 on the rear, never used anything else since, it's perfect.
Thanks for indulging me. Disclaimer - I'm not interested in riding at maximum speed. I do like learning and still don't get why +2R doesn't lower top end speed. Silly bicycle example - My body can spin the pedals at a max rpm. I can ride faster with a smaller rear sprocket. Why does the analogy not hold here?
 

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I can ride faster with a larger rear sprocket. Why does the analogy not hold here?
You can ride *easier with a larger rear sprocket. You definitely can't ride faster. Larger rear sprocket->more crank turns per wheel turns. You will ultimately spin out at a lower speed.

The idea with the multi is that the limiting factor for acceleration is not gearing for a bike with this much power.
 

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Thanks for indulging me. Disclaimer - I'm not interested in riding at maximum speed. I do like learning and still don't get why +2R doesn't lower top end speed. Silly bicycle example - My body can spin the pedals at a max rpm. I can ride faster with a smaller rear sprocket. Why does the analogy not hold here?
So think of the engine as your lungs, and the bicycle gearing the same as a motorcycle, if you put a really tall gear on the bicycle and pedal as hard as you can for as long as you can but your fitness and lung capacity won't give your legs the power to turn the pedals to the bikes top speed, same thing. The engine in the bike doesn't make enough power to to drive the bike with the factory supplied gearing, not because the engine is breathless or weak (160hp! far from it...) but because the manufacturer has installed gear ratios that serve a more appropriate purpose than achieving max rpm in top gear
 

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Thanks for indulging me. Disclaimer - I'm not interested in riding at maximum speed. I do like learning and still don't get why +2R doesn't lower top end speed. Silly bicycle example - My body can spin the pedals at a max rpm. I can ride faster with a smaller rear sprocket. Why does the analogy not hold here?
The Hp that drives the bike can only reach a certain top speed due the aerodynamic's, wind drag. On my 1200 multi with stock gearing it would pull 245-250 kph max, with 2 teeth larger rear sprocket it would still pull 240-250, but get there a little faster. My 1290R with stock gearing is geared for 320kph, but it will never reach that, max would be 280, so pointless having it so tall geared.
 
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