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Discussion Starter #1
In my brief flash of riding like an idiot in the SMM's, I noticed that when going quickly, the bike pushed pretty hard on neutral throttle - meaning that unless I opened the throttle pretty well midcorner, it didn't like to finish the corners.

I'm working on moving that to the track next month so want to do a bit of bike setup.

On other bikes, raising the back/dropping the nose helped that. I'm in the market (ahem) for an adjustable link to raise the back, and in the interim was thinking of raising the forks in the triple clamps a bit in the interim.

Anyone done this? Any feedback/settings that worked or should be avoided?
 

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In my brief flash of riding like an idiot in the SMM's, I noticed that when going quickly, the bike pushed pretty hard on neutral throttle - meaning that unless I opened the throttle pretty well midcorner, it didn't like to finish the corners.

I'm working on moving that to the track next month so want to do a bit of bike setup.

On other bikes, raising the back/dropping the nose helped that. I'm in the market (ahem) for an adjustable link to raise the back, and in the interim was thinking of raising the forks in the triple clamps a bit in the interim.

Anyone done this? Any feedback/settings that worked or should be avoided?
What's wrong with continuing to crack it open mid corner? That's always what I do and she rails right through without a hitch.
 

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Yes, I did both, raised the tail and pushed the fork into the triple up to the upper fork ring.
That gained me more ground clearance so that you can lean the bike hard into the corners.
Please note, our mountains have very tight corners (see pic) there this setup works perfect much improvement compared to the factory settings.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
On racebikes I've ridden, I've found that a bike that pushes on neutral throttle at 80% will push as well as you close to the limit - you run out of throttle you can add without breaking the rear loose.

So if you set the bike up to be neutral (carves rather than pushes) at 80% on neutral throttle, I'm *guessing* (key word here) that the setup will be better as you get close to the limit.
 

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Yes, I did both, raised the tail and pushed the fork into the triple up to the upper fork ring.
That gained me more ground clearance so that you can lean the bike hard into the corners.
Please note, our mountains have very tight corners (see pic) there this setup works perfect much improvement compared to the factory settings.
Whoa. I want to go to there!
 

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had the whole suspension done springs,valving,ohlins oil and raised the rear slighty also fork tubes raised.havnt got a track day with it yet but have ridn it pretty through some twisties with lots of bumps so far much better.
 

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Yes, I did both, raised the tail and pushed the fork into the triple up to the upper fork ring.
That gained me more ground clearance so that you can lean the bike hard into the corners.
Please note, our mountains have very tight corners (see pic) there this setup works perfect much improvement compared to the factory settings.
Can I come and stay at your place? The roads where I come from are like this:

 

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You must live north of the river?
Ha! Good point, you just reminded me that there is that corner on O'brien Road. I fuel up ride out there, go around it and then have to go home because I'm running low on fuel. Maybe I'll hide a jerry can in the bush.
 

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Yes, I did both, raised the tail and pushed the fork into the triple up to the upper fork ring.
That gained me more ground clearance so that you can lean the bike hard into the corners.
Please note, our mountains have very tight corners (see pic) there this setup works perfect much improvement compared to the factory settings.
I think what he is saying is to raise the tubes up into the top triple to decrease ground clearance by a few mm's and to make the bike turn in quicker. Your way would increase rake and make the bike turn slower.
 

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In my brief flash of riding like an idiot in the SMM's, I noticed that when going quickly, the bike pushed pretty hard on neutral throttle - meaning that unless I opened the throttle pretty well midcorner, it didn't like to finish the corners.

I'm working on moving that to the track next month so want to do a bit of bike setup.

On other bikes, raising the back/dropping the nose helped that. I'm in the market (ahem) for an adjustable link to raise the back, and in the interim was thinking of raising the forks in the triple clamps a bit in the interim.

Anyone done this? Any feedback/settings that worked or should be avoided?

this is a thread that I recently started after I was having difficulty getting my hyper standard to finish corners at a recent track day http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?t=71852 .

I found the bike to turn in sufficiently quick. My problem is I couldn't get the bike to finish a corner. This tendancy is usually a result of not enough swingarm angle prohibiting you from having the proper geometry to make apexes and accelerate to the exit points.

Additionally, the front end feedback was horrible. Twice, I nearly lowsided and saved the bike on my knee/toe slider. I plan on changing the wt. of fork fluid to to 5 wt. to help with that and to ensure that the fork oil level is set correctly. There isn't much else you can do cheaply. The next alternative easily adds $1200 to the bill.

The bike was no fun to ride when compared to my R6 beater. We will see with some
 

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My suspension guy raised the forks in the clamps 5mm and the bike is sweet. this is with the STD linkage. get the sag right in the back and you'll have no probs.

but then again, I've got way stiffer springs in the front and better internals. All this added up to -8 seconds a lap yesterday! with the woodcrafts I starting grinding the gear lever (moved up to fix that) and had my toe down.

I now need to start adding preload on the track to stop the bike bouncing about.

the racetech front end is sick, I can stuff it so hard into corners now and grab handfulls of front brakes and its SOLID.

here is me posing for the cameraman.
 

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My suspension guy raised the forks in the clamps 5mm and the bike is sweet. this is with the STD linkage. get the sag right in the back and you'll have no probs.

but then again, I've got way stiffer springs in the front and better internals. All this added up to -8 seconds a lap yesterday! with the woodcrafts I starting grinding the gear lever (moved up to fix that) and had my toe down.

I now need to start adding preload on the track to stop the bike bouncing about.

the racetech front end is sick, I can stuff it so hard into corners now and grab handfulls of front brakes and its SOLID.

here is me posing for the cameraman.
pedro, I meant to ask you how much travel you are using now with the racetech kit? Are you using zip ties and how far from the axle casting do they end up now. I must have over 50 mm of travel remaining on mine. That has to be part of the problem for me.
 

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remember that fork travel ends about 25-30mm from the casting at the bottom. travel is a hard one to get right, you want to use it all almost! as you go faster you use more under brakes so you need to stiffen the front more etc. its an ever progressing thing. I'm flying the back wheel on the brakes from 180kph at the 100meter mark no problems, put it that way :D
 
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