Will the air bypass screws make a difference?
Got my ST2 running
, custom 2-1 exhaust CF can, Ferrachi eprom[fbf150?], It seemed good at first but then seemed to get rich after 50 or so miles, it idled at about 800 rpm.
I adjusted the trim clockwise[one site said that is leaner, another says that is richer?] It seems to have leaned it out, now the idle is inconsistent. 1200 rpm sometimes, 2100 rpm other times. If I just pull in clutch when slowing, it seems to hang at 2000-2100. If I run it down to 1400 before pulling in the clutch, it will stay idling at 1200-1400.
Tps has been adjusted, carbs synced, air screws about 3 turns out.
Setting the sag? Full of fuel? Empty? About 45lbs. difference.
0-10mm free sag, 20-30mm laden sag, Is that 20-30 total or 10 + 20-30, so 40mm total laden sag for cruising. Another site says 35% of travel[about 40-45mm] for laden sag.
One site says start with compresion damping full off, another says start with comp. full on? Go figure.:think:
Got my ST2 running
I adjusted the trim clockwise[one site said that is leaner, another says that is richer?] It seems to have leaned it out, now the idle is inconsistent. 1200 rpm sometimes, 2100 rpm other times. If I just pull in clutch when slowing, it seems to hang at 2000-2100. If I run it down to 1400 before pulling in the clutch, it will stay idling at 1200-1400.
Tps has been adjusted, carbs synced, air screws about 3 turns out.
Setting the sag? Full of fuel? Empty? About 45lbs. difference.
0-10mm free sag, 20-30mm laden sag, Is that 20-30 total or 10 + 20-30, so 40mm total laden sag for cruising. Another site says 35% of travel[about 40-45mm] for laden sag.
One site says start with compresion damping full off, another says start with comp. full on? Go figure.:think: