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Discussion Starter #21
Thats the basic kit yes. I wish this bike were coming along fast, seems to take forever waiting on brake lines, master cylinder parts, tires and everything else. Not to mention doing all the research to get parts that will work together! Its been fun going though, my favorite part is finding a new part in the mailbox and running to the garage to put it on!
 

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Had to put the start button on the left grip due to the 999 brake master being a bit larger.. not enough room, anyone know if this will be a problem during tech inspection at the track?
Tech is down to each track, very little consistency here. But no one will have a problem with that. I never did, after my 2nd year of racing, I always ran my kill switch on the left bar.

That said, you WANT the kill switch on the left handlebar. Why? Because when your throttle sticks, and you're holding on to the brake lever/bar on the right side with a death-grip, going 150+ down the back straight at Mid-Ohio, you'd really want to be able to just reach up with your left thumb and turn the motor off... But you can't....

Michael
 

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Not to hijack the thread but for those who changed the forks to ohlins and others what did you have to do for triple clamps? I have a 2004 ss1000 race bike and would like to put a 1x98s front end on it. I would think this would be a great upgrade for forks and brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Paul, You would probably be better off starting a new thread with a tech question like that...

More updates and a question about brakes:

Got new brake hardware to secure the front calipers and the bracket that ataches to the bottom of the engine that holds the rod securing the rear caliper, for some reason all of my brake hardware grew about a 1/4 inch and was to long before contacting the rotor...

1st question... which way does the bracket go on? For some reason I feel like I have the bracket that secures the rod to the engine on upside down (one side has a nice rounded edge and one side has more of a 90 degree edge, kinda like a stamped washer does). With exhuast pipes, the only way I could get the rod back to the rear caliper was with the bracket facing up (look at the pic), this routes the rod behind the horizontal exhuast pipe. With the bracket facing down it would have to go right through that pipe.









2nd question... How are you guys with SS/SP rear brake routing the brake line? The bleed valve and brake line holes are on the rear portion of my caliper facing down. The brake line for this set up that came with the other parts and pieces just does not want to fit... Pictures would be best if anyone can provide me with one!!

Finally, a short crappy muffled iphone video of the bike idling... Its pretty cold in the garage today and it was a cold start, so the FCR's didnt really want to idle smooth at all (that will be taken care of soon).

 

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Discussion Starter #25
Its been a couple weeks since I posted any progress, because progress has been slow :( I got the brake line on and bleed, had the suspension set up by a local suspension genie and finished up the dash. Got my race front fairing in last week and fitted the bodywork. Decided on a paint scheme last night and laid the paint down on the side fairings, will do the nose and tail tomorrow!
Now for some pics...

The dash is done, aside from a ducati decal or two:



The body work mounted:


The layout of the front number plate, I have a similar one on my 916, I dig the one sided look:


Finally the paint on one of the side fairings, design stolen from the D16rr:
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks for the help Joe, thats how I routed mine so I guess its right!

Got the fairings painted and wet sanded. Had to mount them up to get an idea of what its going to look like :)


 

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If it's only a track bike and you won't be using a tail light, you should consider changing the radius of the curve that goes from the bottom of the solo seat section up to the cutout for the tail light. Easy to do and really improves the appearance. Look at the pic for a better explanation.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
when I masked off the tail I thought it might be to much white, but after seeing it on the bike i really like it too!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thanks for the suggestions and kind words everyone, Hopefully I can get it done before my first track day of the year... Barber April 28th!!!! Just ordered some Ca-cycleworks coils and plug wires and have a lot of carb tuning to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
She is now TRACK READY!!!

The paint went on well, although not without complications... Apparently Rustolium professional paint isn't compatible with Rustolium Gloss Enamel, had to repaint all of it after the paint developed a wrinkle finish 5 minutes after spraying all the pieces... Left the clear coat off this time, went with a good medium cutting compound from Mcguires that works well enough.

So here is the rundown:
Rebuilt valved and sprung 916 front end
999 Radial front brake master
998 clutch master
XRAC sintered front brake pads
Michelin power one competition compound tires
99+ rear shock (raised the ride height about an inch, suspension guy said its perfect)
Sharkskins front fairing without headlight cutout
Ca-cycleworks coils (yet to be installed)
39mm FCR's
5.5" rear wheel
underslung rear brake
New front and rear brake and clutch lines in blue
Woodcraft rear sets

Full Ohlins and possibly a 1000DS engine are in the works for next year :)

When I bought it 7 years ago:


After years of neglect and an inspiration to have a dedicated track bike:










 

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Discussion Starter #35
A few more:




I welcome any critiques, suggestions or maybe some good deals on extra parts you guys have laying around!
 

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Big fun!
Looks great!
I'm impressed by the fit of those cans and how they get closer together at the back. Looks cool. Freakin' loud, I'll bet. BTW, still got those polished cans laying around?
I may have to install the red grips I've had for years. :)
Looks like you need a longer shift rod. Downshifts might be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
sofadriver: I do still have the chrome stain tune low mounts, the last time I heard them on the bike they had a bit of a rasp so I think they need rebuilt? Make me an offer if your interested... The shift rod on the bike is adjustable and everything works like butter, had to adjust the length to move the lever down a bit so its more comfortable with my track gear on though...

Subaru: If your referring to the rear brake... The OEM CR rear set up has the brake caliper isolated to the swing arm, with that setup when you applied the rear brake it actually forces the swing arm down changing the suspension geometry while braking.. with it braced on the engine via the locating rod it applies no forces to the swing arm and does not effect the bike when the rear brake is applied... Im not trail braking yet, but I assume this will make it easier.
 

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Nice!

DUCATI 900SS 900 SS SP CR 1991-96, FAIRING, FAIRINGS, BODYWORK, FRONT, FENDER, REAR, HUGGER, TAIL, SEAT, TANK, WINDSCREEN, COWL, LOWER, UPPER, SUPERMONO, TWIN, BEVELHEAD, DESMO

James, you've done a very nice job! Just don't chuck her down on the track like I did right after the first time I painted mine :eek:! Scroll down the link to "Turn signal covers." You might want to consider them. Easy to glass in and really cleans up the front. Pic attached.

Sofadriver, he has Woodcraft rearsets. Very comfy and good fit for normal size feet. He may have to raise the shift lever a little to make it easier to get his toe under it and more room underneath for upshifting while leaned over. I'd also recommend repositioning the arm on the gear shift shaft ("gearchange control lever") down a bit more so it has a better angle for downshifts.

P.S. Be careful not to spill any gas on your paint if you don't clear coat it. I had to go to a friend who does automotive clear coat because I found out that rattle can clear coat (Krylon) wasn't gasoline proof.
 

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I'd also recommend repositioning the arm on the gear shift shaft ("gearchange control lever") down a bit more so it has a better angle for downshifts.

QUOTE]

yep. that's what I was referring to (just didn't know the proper name for it).
looks like it will need a longer rod to get the right geometry.
 
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