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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I was going to upgrade the headlight in my 2001 Supersport 750, but when I pulled the connector off the back of the bulb, it partially crumbled in my hand. I tried to monkey it back together, but didn't really have the time or light for it. I'm assuming the plug is fairly standardized, but wanted to check and see if I should look at the electronics back to the battery. The damage looks like either the cable got frayed and then fried, or was connected to something it wasn't meant for. DSFO and all that. Thanks for any advice!
 

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If it's just a standard H4 connector, go to the auto parts store and get one and splice it in or crimp it on if you get a component version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay, that part went fine, I think. Took the old socket off, stripped the wires back a bit, connected them to the new socket, turned on the new bulb with no trouble. Took the opportunity to drop in an LED set, with ballast, etc. The new light turns on with no problem, but when I reassembled, the bike wouldn't start. I get a clicking noise and a bit of a jump from the bike, but no ignition. Has gas in the tank, headlight and dash lights work, so there is some electrical power. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Alex
 

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battery voltage is...........?
 

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Check your fuses and battery. Maybe something shorted when connector burned.
2013 monster had the same issue. I dont understand why ducati never bother to solve this. Obviously ground cable should be thicker than others but it is not.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Yep standard H4 bulb connector plug. Had to replace mine a coupla times over the years because it was melted.
You can get ceramic H4 units which won't melt... Though I currently have a (unknown brand) plastic auto H4 unit in mine (replacing the melted OEM unit), which has done a LOT of mileage now, with no problems - even running a 100/80W halogen bulb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey all, you were right, battery needed a charge. Guessing that melted socket didn't help. Can't find my damn multimeter, but the bike is back up and perky after a night's recharging.

As an aside, really pleased with the obnoxiously bright LED headlight I put in.

Thanks.
 

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Hey all, you were right, battery needed a charge. Guessing that melted socket didn't help. Can't find my damn multimeter, but the bike is back up and perky after a night's recharging.

As an aside, really pleased with the obnoxiously bright LED headlight I put in.

Thanks.
You may revise your opinions of the LED headlight if you have to ride in a dark rural environment... I spent some time a few years back experimenting with a LED H4 bulb (from lifetimeleds, thread here - http://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/397033-headlight-upgrades-4.html), and while it put out GREAT light, the angle between the high and low beams was too much, so if high beam was aligned for best light, the low was right in front of the front wheel - and if I adjusted for a good low beam - then the high beam was up in the trees. Thus, I went back to a relay setup with heavier gauge wire, and a 100/80W bulb.

OTOH - LEDs in the instrument cluster lights (except for the low fuel warning) work really well!

You may find this thread useful - http://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/482265-wanted-led-bulb-list-95-900ss.html
 

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Check your fuses and battery. Maybe something shorted when connector burned.
2013 monster had the same issue. I dont understand why ducati never bother to solve this. Obviously ground cable should be thicker than others but it is not.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If the connector, as in fried/melted etc. that is usually a sign of a crap connection, so higher resistance between the H4 bulb and the harness connector.

The bulb filament depends on resistance to get hot and glow, if there is a resistance due to crap connection, that will also get hot and if duration is long enough will melt the plastic connector casing.

Not sure why the grind (aka negative) should be "thicker"
H4 or the US equivalent are usually running as high (60W) or low (55W), not high and low at the same time unless someone has done a wiring mod to run both at the same time.
I.e. the negative cable in normal operation is supplying a 55W or 60W filament.
Some of us, as in steveb64 at least, run "slave" relays and decent cross sectional area cables directly from the battery.
That won't fix "hot" connections, but will make the headlight so much brighter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You may revise your opinions of the LED headlight if you have to ride in a dark rural environment... I spent some time a few years back experimenting with a LED H4 bulb (from lifetimeleds, thread here - http://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/397033-headlight-upgrades-4.html), and while it put out GREAT light, the angle between the high and low beams was too much, so if high beam was aligned for best light, the low was right in front of the front wheel - and if I adjusted for a good low beam - then the high beam was up in the trees. Thus, I went back to a relay setup with heavier gauge wire, and a 100/80W bulb.

OTOH - LEDs in the instrument cluster lights (except for the low fuel warning) work really well!

You may find this thread useful - http://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/482265-wanted-led-bulb-list-95-900ss.html
Roger that. The LED is a bit wonky on the high/low split, which I'll probably monkey with later, but I'm almost always in urban spots, with a lot of inattentive drivers.
 

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Roger that. The LED is a bit wonky on the high/low split, which I'll probably monkey with later, but I'm almost always in urban spots, with a lot of inattentive drivers.
Sounds good. The light is certainly attention getting. I've been following various LED H4 bulb designs, and there are a few variations around now - some MUST work better in respect to the beam angles - but I have no idea which, and given I'm at the ass-end of the world for getting stuff, and the cost of the various bulbs, I'm not going to put too much effort into trying to find one that'll work properly. I think that the single beam (single filament equivalent) versions would work better, as it's easier to generate the light at the correct spot. But that doesn't help us.

Does your bulb run both low and high beams at the same time when on high? The one I had did - so the low beam was on permanently, which was a nuisance, as with the low beam output so close, I was getting a lot of light reflecting off the road, creating a flare/reflection on my visor which did nothing for my night vision (the other reason I went back to a halogen bulb).
 

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Lights connector

I had a similar issue with my 96 900SS
I went toi Radio Shack and purchased a couple of 12 Relays...Wired the lights from the nbattery to the relays and used the original wire to the headlamps to switch the relays...this allowed me to run #12 wire (20 amps) to the lights and took the load off the skinny ass crap wire Ducati went with...
Mike S
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Does your bulb run both low and high beams at the same time when on high? The one I had did - so the low beam was on permanently, which was a nuisance, as with the low beam output so close, I was getting a lot of light reflecting off the road, creating a flare/reflection on my visor which did nothing for my night vision (the other reason I went back to a halogen bulb).
There isn't much differentiation between the low and high on mine; isn't the difference just angle? I've come to really love the light I have in mine now, which was an off the shelf CycleGear kit. No bounce off the roads, alignment looks fine as far as I can tell. Slightly quicker response from cagers while splitting, though of course I don't know if it's because it's more noticeable or because it's extremely annoying.
 
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